Help in understand hilo TL - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

greenmtnman · 08-31-2013, 04:35 PM

I'm going to look at a Towlight that is for sale and the guy says its 20' x 8' and that its a 2000'. No model number also.
The registration weight "unladen weight is 3487 lbs

this is on CL 2000 TowLite Hi Lo Camper
So I've been trying to look up the spec'

I found looking up the yr 2000 tl's at around the 20's.
the 190TD is unloaded 3140 LB's
220 TL&TD " " 3273 LB's
240TL &TD " " 3648 LB's

Should I take a tape measure....Then how do I measure?
Body R or rear bumper to Body F?
Front of the nose (hitch) to rear body or bumper?

Is there anything else I should check before taking a 3 1/2 hr each way?

Hoping I get the help I need soon that was my DW saying that....lol

knowing it's a long weekend and that there are people like me staying home away from traffic! Have a good weekend

sam · 08-31-2013, 08:23 PM

Do a search on this forum for the buying a used HiLo checklist. Certain years of the towlites were made with alum frames and then they switched to wood. This info. is in a back post. Be careful of the pinpoint holes in the alum roofs. Press on all the walls and look in cupboards for water damage. Wrinkled wallpaper and musty smells are indicators of water damage. What is the age of the tires? Have the seller turn on the ref. Should be cold. Have the seller demonstrate all systems. Take a camers,camcorder with you and post with any concerns. The seller will need to turn the ref. on at least a day before you arrive. Try out the ac and furnace. Have the seller put the HiLo up and down. Keep us posted. Wow,a seven hr. round trip to check out this unit!!www.NADA guides.com

greenmtnman · 08-31-2013, 11:31 PM

I will check all that and as much as I can.

I would drive to NF if there was a good TL there.

thanks

campthewestcoast · 09-01-2013, 12:09 AM

The hilos are measured from the hitch to the bumper, without considering the spare tire.

sam · 09-01-2013, 02:08 AM

Here is the date/post on buying a used HiLo. 4-15-2013 by RCEYES. You made me laugh with your comment about how far you would drive for a good used HiLo.

greenmtnman · 09-01-2013, 06:25 PM

Happy I made someone laugh. Just got feeding the dogs chasing the turkeys into their coop n feeding us.
pic of the hilo will be up loaded soon after din's and drinks

thanks

greenmtnman · 09-01-2013, 08:41 PM

Hi again

Went up to look at this camper.....I just don't understand people when they cant say the truth.
Outside pass door side upper felt good and lower too. (rear/s and forward/s area.
Drivers side you will see the bulge in the upper half of the wall.
U will see here and there window and trim needing replacing caulking. Most of the trim needs to have a re-caulking?
When you step inside looking at the trim on drivers side same corner as the pic by the top buck. Taking down the top buck and you see a rippling and its not ripple wine.....

but its mostly on the drivers side area. That window on the dr/side below the up/bed wall is soft. Also the tag says its 1999 advertised as 2000. M-190TD. Weight is another story on the TOWLITE Specs for 2000 M-190TD says 3140. He says on his State/reg that is stating 3487lbs.
But remember it's not a 2000 its really a 1999.
It goes up and down well needs grease on the rod. Frig was cold A/C worker
heater worked. The roof look ok with no holes showing. No downward dip too.
He is including 2" ball hitch and stabilizer bars that go with his hitch.

What I need to know is this is a hard thing to drop the ceiling and re-do it and to redo the walls on drivers side? What do I need and could this been done in parts the front roof/ceiling and the wall? the floors didn't see any problems. He was asking $3250 n he said he would negotiate. I didn't want to saying I first need to see how much this will cost to fix and if I could do it diy.

sam · 09-02-2013, 12:23 AM

I would like to see your first Towlite be in campible shape. All the windows would have to be taken out and resealed.We discourage buyers from getting units with water damage as it will cost you many labor hrs and material. I would only give him $1.00 for his unit. Yes,it is all fixable by a diyer. Other good units are out there. I would pass on this one. Sorry it didn't work out for you.

RCREYES · 09-03-2013, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam

Here is the date/post on buying a used HiLo. 4-15-2013 by RCEYES. You made me laugh with your comment about how far you would drive for a good used HiLo.

This was taken from NDgent's post here on the forum. It is a great go-by list. You can do a search of thinking about buying and find his post to read it first hand.

Basically, start with the visual items –
1. Exterior
• Look for water stains and discoloration on inside walls and around ceiling anywhere vents, skylights, windows, etc. exist.
• Push and prod with your hand on the inside walls for soft spots (which could indicate a water leak and a damaged or rotten interior wall).
• Check for bubbles in the wallpaper (a sign of delimitation or water intrusion)
2. Interior cleanliness of the unit-
• Look for water stains and discoloration on inside walls and around ceiling anywhere vents, skylights, windows, etc. exist.
• Push and prod with your hand on the inside walls for soft spots (which could indicate a water leak and a damaged or rotten interior wall).
• Check for bubbles in the wallpaper (a sign of delimitation or water intrusion)
3. Test appliance functions –
• lights
• fans
• refrigerator
• air conditioner
• heater
• water pump
• range hood
• stovetop
• oven (if equipped)
• microwave (if equipped)
• stereo (if equipped)
4. Lift System-
• Does the unit raise and lower properly
• Check the lift system for hydraulic leaks (puddle under the trailer)
• Check the lift cables to see if they are in good shape and not frayed
• Check the seal between the upper and lower body halves for tears or damage
5. fill the tanks to the top and check for leaks
6. Battery
7. Solar Panel (if equipped)

RCREYES · 09-03-2013, 02:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenmtnman

Hi again

Went up to look at this camper.....I just don't understand people when they cant say the truth.
Outside pass door side upper felt good and lower too. (rear/s and forward/s area.
Drivers side you will see the bulge in the upper half of the wall.
U will see here and there window and trim needing replacing caulking. Most of the trim needs to have a re-caulking?
When you step inside looking at the trim on drivers side same corner as the pic by the top buck. Taking down the top buck and you see a rippling and its not ripple wine.....

but its mostly on the drivers side area. That window on the dr/side below the up/bed wall is soft. Also the tag says its 1999 advertised as 2000. M-190TD. Weight is another story on the TOWLITE Specs for 2000 M-190TD says 3140. He says on his State/reg that is stating 3487lbs.
But remember it's not a 2000 its really a 1999.
It goes up and down well needs grease on the rod. Frig was cold A/C worker
heater worked. The roof look ok with no holes showing. No downward dip too.
He is including 2" ball hitch and stabilizer bars that go with his hitch.

What I need to know is this is a hard thing to drop the ceiling and re-do it and to redo the walls on drivers side? What do I need and could this been done in parts the front roof/ceiling and the wall? the floors didn't see any problems. He was asking $3250 n he said he would negotiate. I didn't want to saying I first need to see how much this will cost to fix and if I could do it diy.

Sort of like buying a car. It could have been made in '99 and sold as a 2000. The weight on the tag is what it weighed out of the factory with all added options.

greenmtnman · 09-03-2013, 08:49 AM

What I don't understand is that you know that there is a problem and people would take a ride to see what is for sale. Then to see water damage even if the drive was only 10 miles away.

Back to this camper is there a site or a link that would tell me how and what I need to do for going about repairing this?

That's what I need to make my finial decision. As I told the guy selling this, after I research on how much time and $$$$ to invest having it fixed, or for me to try and do this. With the help from this forum.

thanks to all who replied so far

lenk

campthewestcoast · 09-03-2013, 08:58 AM

Pass on this one, wood framing in the walls on this one. Look for a 2001 or newer,this is when they switched to alumium framing. This 99/00 is a complete upper section rebuild, you'll find more damage if you start opening it up. You could easily spend $2000.00 on this unit to rebuild.

Norton Rider · 09-03-2013, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenmtnman

What I don't understand is that you know that there is a problem and people would take a ride to see what is for sale. Then to see water damage even if the drive was only 10 miles away.

Unfortunately this happens with every type of vehicle for sale; I've had similar experiences with cars, motorcycles, and airplanes. Over the years I've learned to ask very specific questions, sometimes more than once. This still will not guarantee an honest answer, but the chances are better.

Case in point, I used to own an airplane sales business. One time I had a customer that was interested in a particular type of used airplane. I found an ideal candidate at a another dealer that was 1500 + miles away. I talked to the dealer a number of times, and was very specific with my questions. Particularly, I asked if the airplane had any corrosion. He assured me that the airplane was corrosion free. This is something that he would have known because his shop had been maintaining the airplane for a number of years.

After some haggling, we agreed to a price that was subject to a mechanical and records inspection. I always had pre-purchase inspections done at a location other than the one that was currently maintaining an airplane, so we also agreed to meet at an airport a few miles away from the dealer. As soon as the mechanic I hired opened up a wing inspection panel, he found severe corrosion in the ribs. It was so bad that he grounded the airplane and reported it to the FAA. Needles to say, I walked away from the deal. It ended up costing me a flight, plus the mechanic's time.