Cable_Replacemnet_And_Adjment_1998_24TD.pdf

Courtesy of dward51

Attached Files

Cable_Replacemnet_And_Adjment_1998_24TD.pdf (2.13 MB, 4816 views)

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2001 Hi-Lo 22TL
2010 F150

Good info--Just one question. Is the bolt that attaches the cable to the top half of the trailer a lag bole into wood or a threaded bole into a nut or threaded metal?

Thanks

The Bolt that conects the cable to the roof is a threaded bolt into the metal frame of the roof.
Sam

Neal and Bev - Thanks so much for this file. Mine are in good shape still, but I saved this in case I ever have any trouble.
This is excellent!

Hi,

I'm new to HiLo's, and considering checking out a '93 23'. On your '98, are all the inner top pulleys as easy to access as the one in your picture ?

This '93 is 3+ hours a way from me, so it's a day to check it out, and a bit of fuel, even when not towing !

Great article, esp. for someone new to the brand.

Best Regards, Dave.

Welcome to the forum See below. This isn't an all inclusive list but a lot of great information to look at.

This was taken from NDgent's post here on the forum. It is a great go-by list. You can do a search of thinking about buying and find his post to read it first hand.

Basically, start with the visual items –
1. Exterior
• Look for water stains and discoloration on inside walls and around ceiling anywhere vents, skylights, windows, etc. exist.
• Push and prod with your hand on the inside walls for soft spots (which could indicate a water leak and a damaged or rotten interior wall).
• Check for bubbles in the wallpaper (a sign of delimitation or water intrusion)
2. Interior cleanliness of the unit-
• Look for water stains and discoloration on inside walls and around ceiling anywhere vents, skylights, windows, etc. exist.
• Push and prod with your hand on the inside walls for soft spots (which could indicate a water leak and a damaged or rotten interior wall).
• Check for bubbles in the wallpaper (a sign of delimitation or water intrusion)
3. Test appliance functions –
• lights
• fans
• refrigerator
• air conditioner
• heater
• water pump
• range hood
• stovetop
• oven (if equipped)
• microwave (if equipped)
• stereo (if equipped)
4. Lift System-
• Does the unit raise and lower properly
• Check the lift system for hydraulic leaks (puddle under the trailer)
• Check the lift cables to see if they are in good shape and not frayed
• Check the seal between the upper and lower body halves for tears or damage
5. fill the tanks to the top and check for leaks
6. Battery
7. Solar Panel (if equipped)

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Thnx RCR, that is a good list.

I'll have to allow a bit more time than I was thinking. If I can get the owner to agree to having the tanks filled, in fairness, I should stick around to drain 'em - tis a warm December here, but still below freezing..

Best Regards, Dave.

"I have a 2007 30' hilo. I have popped the side cables our of the outsides. I am think the cables may have been to tight. I have had the pulleys welding back in place. Should I loosen all the cables completely so this won't happen again? I would appreciate a suggestion.Or perhaps you know someone in Colorado that can service this problem. Your help will be appreciated. Also do you know where I can buy a service DVD on the HiLO's? Thanks. Marilyn Claycomb. you can also email me at mrwalsh1937@hotmail.com and I could maybe call you if I need more help."

Marilyn presented a good question, unfortunately in an off-topic thread. To keep it (and whatever answers come forth) from being lost in the HTF, I've copied and pasted it into this Thread. As mentioned in the General discussion thread, I've contacted a Rocky Mountain Hi-Lo Club member, in Colorado, to advise on the availability of any former Hi-Lo dealer, in that geographic area, who may still have the expertise to help.

Jim

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1967 17' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1967-1969)
1969 19' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1969-2011)
2004 27' Hi-Lo TowLite (2010-present)
2015 Chevy Tahoe LTZ

I am a retired Canadian (licenced) aircraft mechanic, and those instructions for applying 'Nicopress' sleeves are as good as any.
I have a 2308C HiLo. Nice little thing.

After reading some of the Forum entries on cable rusting, I checked my 2308C and found one by the shower had rusted a fair bit, the other, one the right side, by the coat storage place just had some surface rust.

The HiLo manual makes NO mention of lubricating or checking them; and as there is a 'lifetime' warranty on the lift system, I just assumed that they were using Stainless Steel cables. NOT!
I just hope that the aft/LH cable holds up for this summer.
Having said that; I think that It's time to trade it in for an Airstream or something. HiLo is a great 'home' for what it is, my only complaint being a sofa/bed. My mate has to crawl over me to get to the 'biffy'.

Mel, I think there are some 24 ft models that have a walk around bed in the front of the unit and my 27 ft has a walk around bed in the back.

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Fantastic Wife
2005 Toyota Tundra V-8 4.7L
2705T Tow Lite
1999 21T Tow Lite

Well went to put the HILO up this past weekend and had a major disaster. As it was going up one side snapped and dropped. Had a heck of a time getting it lowered. Spent the rest of the trip in a hotel at night and at the campground during the day with the rest of the family. Now we are contemplating our options. My husband wants no part of trying to fix it. We have a mechanic friend that we might be able to cajole into taking a look at it. I like to tinker and thought about watching the videos to see if I could attempt it. Or of course have it professionally repaired. Any estimate on the cost of that? How about the cost of parts for diy? Anybody know of any shops that do that type of repair in Michigan between Higgins lake and Port Huron? We are currently without a tow vehicle (our son in law towed it there) so will not be able to tow it any distance except home. Any thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

Wow! Sorry to hear about that Zookeeper. I have not had any experience with replacing cables but several on the forum have replaced cables. Hope the attached PDF file will help.

Attached Files

Cable_Replacemnet_And_Adjment_1998_24TD-2.pdf (2.13 MB, 223 views)

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Fantastic Wife
2005 Toyota Tundra V-8 4.7L
2705T Tow Lite
1999 21T Tow Lite

Parts are available from J&&R or Midget in Ohio. A member of our HiLo clubwith a 28ft. unit just had the dealer replace it for $1800.00.

Where can I order a cable set for a 1990 25 foot voyager 259l

I would like to change mine as preventive maintenance

See links below....

Home - JR REPAIR

http://hilotrailerparts.webs.com/

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Have you examined your cables? You can see virtually every inch of them that are exposed to the elements with the top raised. Then, if you take off the trim strip (it's held on with screws) that is on the top edge of the lower half (inside the trailer), you'll see the last portion of the cable as it goes over the final pulley before attaching to the lower edge of the top half.

You'd be looking for rust and/or frayed cables. Unless you see any damaged areas, I think you are just throwing money away by replacing them. If they are periodically cleaned and properly lubricated, they should last indefinitely.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew

I agree with Jack's post. It is at least an 8hr. job and guaranteed to agrivate you!!

The work don't bother me
I'm going to be removing and re bracing all four cables where they connect to the roof any way
Gonna do an angle iron mod I seen because the edge is dented pretty bad from the weight of the top
Figured being 25 years old it would be best to swap them out so there's no risk of trouble down the road

Ruben, i don't know quite how i got here but it was a real hoot.
Or a toot. Or a wild ride all over the site.
In any event, I have a question regarding the raising or lowering of the upper portion of the unit.
After printing and reading the "how to" posted by D Ward, I am wondering whether simply raising the upper part by means of a floor jack would do the trick.
In my case, the upper part is in the "up" position and it would seem simpler to merely raise the front half of the camper the one to one and a half inches needed to bring it up to the rear half, which seems to be fully "up"
Then placing 4x4 posts on the both sides of the front only to support the top and not bother with supporting the rear of the unit in as much as it is being supported by the cables
And then adjust the right front "AA" adjusting nut and the "DD" adjusting nut accordingly.
Those two nuts already show 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inches of the threaded area. The beam there is 2 inches wide leaving not that much more to tighten.The two rear nuts have only 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches of thread showing Thank you, John Brysacz
Cell 727-459-0010

Proper adjustment is making the upper and lower bulb seals meet. Do not use the inside wood trim as a reference. I believe most would suggest using farm jacks to raise the top half. I would suggest adjusting the front and back at the same time. Looking at the threads showing that you have stated, there is a possibility that you may have a stretched cable. I hope I answered your question.

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas