1969 hilo Traveler Brake check Pics

One of the best things that we have going for us these days is our digital cameras. Take photos all the way in and if on the way out (or putting things back together) you go opp's. Well you have pics that you can review.
Solved a problem and answered a lot of my questions the trial and error method so hopefully a few of these pics and words might help you folks out. Remember this is what I did on mine. What you do is what you do DON'T BLAME ME. Don't understand anything take it to your local garage or whatever.

First I read where the tire and edge of the camper have been a major problem for a lot of folks. Second I asked where is the lift point several times. Well thought that I had the answer. Well trial and error showed me that if you lift at the axle point then you get tire bind with the edge. So there are twos point where the springs meet the trailer. I choose a new lift point just in front of where the spring meets the trailer. Worked great no tire bind problem.

Ok, this is for a 1969 traveler hilo. Pop those nuts loose and *** and then jack up the trailer, put jack stands in where the leveling jacks would go (see manual) on the side I'm removing the tire from. Next finish removing the nuts and get the tire off.
Well there it is.
Next question does the drum just slip off over the lugs like many cars?? No, this is one where you remove the cap and then cotter pin then the brake drum comes off. Just pry the cap off or screw off? Well trail and error taught me that it's a screw cap, right hand thread, *** part, just be sure to start taking it off before you lift the tire in the air. Like tire nuts it's best to start removing while everything is still on the ground. Well finish removing the cap then remove cotter pin. Next unthread the big nut. At this time I should point out that it always seems like there are 1 or 2 complete turns less on a nut or cap than you think that there is. Always try to have a clean newspaper above the sandy dirt that everything seems to fall into. Warned you, opp's you forgot.
Normally you think about having to go in through the back of the brake drum and turn the "star" wheel and loosen everything enough to remove the drum. Well unless you have worn a big grove into your drum this should not be needed. Look at the pics. There is nothing (at least on mine) to advance and hold the star wheel automatically.
There everything is apart. Do What You Need To DO.
Now reverse and put it back together.

Now go and do the other side. Wait I'm typing this and not doing the other side. Started the other side got the jack placed where I now want to lift. Then I got the cap loose, then 5 out of 5 lug nuts said NO I'm staying where I'm at. Interesting, I'm only about 250 pounds and have a 19 1/2 inch long 1/2 drive wrench in my hands and the nuts just don't want to move. I said ok, got the liquid wrench soaked everything is sight. Said that the sun (Fla) is getting hot. Put the drive back on put a little pressure on then tapped the wrench several times with the hammer on everyone of them. Next gave a little pressure and got 3 out of 5 loose and waiting for the liquid wrench to soak in a little more before I try to get the other two loose. Of course sitting here in the AC with the fan on is good enough reason to start writing this.
Hope that this helps you out some.
Now for some pictures.

Later Tim & Nancy and a dog that wants to go camping.

I hope you're taking the time

to enjoy some Miller while waiting for the liquid wrench to penetrate.
Remember, your hydration is equally important.

Brakes

Relax It's only 90 degrees out today. Drink lots of fruit punch soda and black cherry soda, Publix brand. Good Stuff. On with the real show.

250 pounds vs 2 frozen lug nuts. I won.. More liquid wrench and a little pulling and pushing and finally got them all free. Hope that you folks remember to loosen the cap. I did.
Well followed what I did before and checked everything out and it looks good enough to me at this time. After a few runs I'll take everything down again and check it out. Don't have anything longer than 20 miles round trip planned for the first few runs. Then two 50 mile runs. Then I'll do the double checking on everything.
Also if you are worried about braking a lug, well one of the pics is of the inside showing that it should be an easy job to replace.
Well went to the front end and planning to start working on it next. Opened the brake reservoir cap and looked inside and guess what.. Empty, well I have a bottle or two around someplace. The brake cylinders looked nice and dry not like they were leaking. Hope after I add fluid they still look like they are not leaking. Also need to make a pin for the front braking area. See pic of missing pin area. Of course after I replace the pin I might find out why the last owner removed the pin..
Then on to the wiring.. The dog wants me to hurry as he wants to go camping again, this time without a tent.

Later Tim & Nancy and a dog that wants to go camping.

padding

Also you might see what looks like a mat in the background of some of the pics. Us older folks call that padding. I picked up a lot of the GI sleeping pads. Used, of course. But for times that you want not to play in the dirt and the sand and also have a little padding for the knee area and "such" they are really nice.

Later Tim & Nancy & Ulysses, our dog.

90s, huh? Aren't we lucky to not be in Arizona/NV,etc

We've actually had clouds/ intermittent rain for days now and so we've probably only been in the 80's. Of course as my Maine'eack mother in law proclaims "it's not the heat that bothers me ...(southerners know the rest of that sentence).

I wondered about the condition of the wheel brake cylinders when I saw your earlier pics. I guess with no fluid they couldn't leak. Here's crossing my fingers for you.

I've also pondered a few times about your missing pin, now I see. Is that part of the cylinder or external and just links two pieces? In my mind I'm thinking its part of it and may be difficult to find (short of replacing the whole thing).

Finally, I did wonder what all the straw stuff was. I used an old carpet scrap when I went under mine the other day. Nothing but the best (stain-proofed) for me!

pin and stuff

Well have something to replace the pin with already. Planning to replace it at a later date. The pin is what hooks the traveling part of the hitch to the push rod that goes into the brake cylinder. From what I understand the last owners ex husband took it with him on the trip up North where he was working in the mountains. Never understood that fellow either but whatever.

wrascal
I'm thinking that straw like stuff (if it's the stuff on the ground) is needles. Long pine needles from several trees in the area.
Carpet grabs and keeps the dirt etc. Pads I'm using, one pop and almost all of the dirt is gone. Rolls up nice and stores well and water proof.
As far as the brake cylinders go, normally if they were a leaking then we would see the build up of junk and stuff. I just hope that the seals did not dry up and crack or rot. I'll see after I add the fluid and bleed the lines etc.

Later Tim & Nancy and the dog

Good news then

as it's not the piston but rather a connecting link. I couldn't tell from the photo if the missing piece went in/out or side to side.

I easily recognized the pine straw and leaves, it just didn't look normal below that level, I just jumped to the conclusion that it was a cobblestone.

Dry rotting was my concern on the rubber brake parts. Regardless, where'd the fluid go?

Answer:To the north mountains with the owner?

Pin

Pin goes into the vertical piece and rides back and forth in the slot. When the truck slows down and the camper tries to keep going forward, the pin rides to the front area of travel and pushes the brake arm forward into the "master" cylinder which pushes brake fluid back to the wheel brakes. When the truck moves forward the moving part of the coupler causes the pin to ride to the back of the slot. In that position the brakes are off.

Later Tim & Nancy and a dog that wants to go camping.

69hilo2 said:

...Well thought that I had the answer. Well trial and error showed me that if you lift at the axle point then you get tire bind with the edge. So there are twos point where the springs meet the trailer. I choose a new lift point just in front of where the spring meets the trailer. Worked great no tire bind problem.

Click to expand...

I used to have an old motorhome built on a 1972 Chevy van chassis that had the same problem: if I jacked up the axle only, the rear tire would not clear the body. The solution was to use two jacks or a jack and a jackstand. I would jack up the frame a few inches and leave the jack there or use a jackstand and remove the jack. Then I would jack the axle by the spring perch just enough for the tire to clear the ground. On the motorhome this was actually faster than jacking up the frame high enough for the tire to clear the ground.

Jack Stands

Everyone remember to use jack stands for safety sake. Also remember to block the other tire.
Stay Safe.

Later Tim & Nancy and that dog that wants to go camping.

69hilo2 said:

Everyone remember to use jack stands for safety sake.

Click to expand...

I used the two jack approach only to change tires on the side of the road. I agree that jack stands should always be used if you are going to work under the vehicle.

Jack stands

Raul
Glad to hear that we both do. Hopefully we will get others to also.

Later Tim

replacement parts

Well these may not be perfect fit replacement parts it's a start and I have not tried evilbay yet. Due to a link from PappaP about a replacement cord I went and check amazon about surge brakes and such. Would several pages of listing to sort through, but here is a nice item to view.

Ultra-Tow GalvX Hydraulic Free-Backing Drum Brakes - Pair, 10in., Model# 56113 - Amazon.com

Later Tim & Nancy

Northern Tool & Equipment

Just noticed that the listing was from "Northern Tool & Equipment". Seems they have a lot of stuff that we could use.

Later Tim & Nancy