I ran across a 1985 Fun Chaser listed as a 25 but it does not look that size. The owner says the tag says 25 but does not appear to be that box size either.
If I measure the box, will I get a length close to the actual model such as a 22 should be about 22" long excluding tongue?
The mod.# on the tag is; 1H0ACAM2XFB011464, can I chase the size that way?

What is the difference between a Fun Chaser and Classic?

Thanks for your help-Jerry

25 is the overall length, measured tongue to rear bumper/ not cabin size.
Interesting thought, the Upper box is about 2' bigger than the bottom box. But of course!

Some guesstimates, when the box is closed, On front you'll have a 3' overhang for the tongue and on the rear about 1' for the bumper.
Leaving about 21' for the upper box. Raise the top and the remaining lower box is about 19'.
All just guesses.

Final thought, that far north you may have to consider shrinkage.

__________________
2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle

Shrinkage; good selling point for my wife Wrascal. I can tell her she will have more cooking space when we get to the Gulf? Wait, I do all the cooking when vacationing........... Think I will approach this from another angle.

Thanks for the reply.-J

What is the difference between a Fun Chaser and Classic?

I thought by now other - more informed sources, would have answered this question. In a nutshell the difference is in the amenities and build quality. The Classic is the more refined version.

I think it's important to note that neither one comes with maidens to take care of even the most basic chores - for that you will need a wife. Come on down and enjoy our Southern hospitality.

__________________
2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle

As Wrascal will tell you, you actually WILL have more cooking room when you get to the gulf because you will be cooking in the great outdoors!

__________________
Jim in Memphis
Wife of 45 years is Brenda
Recently sold our 1997 24' Classic
2014 Ford F-350 6.7 Diesel Crew Cab

I need a blast furnace to cook outdoors here at this time of year.
Mi. is a great place to be from in the winter.

Thanks guys. I'll ask the wife if I can keep an eye open for one with a "maiden". If wife is feeling generous afterward, I will still have one open for looking too!

OK, the box measures about 15 1/2' and the upper measures 18 1/2'.

I'm guess a 19' or 20'? Overall bumper to hitch is about 25'.

Something in the papers inside says it weighs <3K# (2947#?).

Tow vehicle, 2006 Liberty is rated at 5K# for towing. Any concerns or things to watch for?

Thanks Guys-Jerry

You also must not overload the Libertys hitch itself, whatever that amount is, While simultaneously you need (10% minimum, ideal 15%) of the trailer weight (for stable safe towing) on that same hitch.

Some made up numbers for demonstration ...

I'll assume that 2947 pounds is unloaded weight (and doesn't account for onboard water, propane, etc). You should have another number for maximum loaded weight (on board water, propane, food stuff, clothes, computers, etc). Lets assume that number is 4000#:

IDEAL CONDITION: 15% of 4000# load (if you're maxed out) would be 600 pounds. If your total weight was only 3000# then 15% of that would be 450#;
MINIMUMS using same weights at 10%: 400#/300#.

So ... can your tow hitch support those numbers?

On mine, I used a weight distributing hitch (with sway bars) simple because it came with my camper. Other than shifting weight around (onto the tow vehicles front axle) I don't understand how they maintain the hitch weight and proper percentage to offer guidance there; maybe someone can explain them better.

I'm now off the Southern Camping Grill, barber and bait shop, looking for a couple of cold ones. You're welcome to join me there. More welcome if you buy the rounds!

__________________
2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle

The size of Hi-Lo trailers has always been, or most always, rear bumper to hitch. It can be an inch or two one way or another but it is usually to the nearest foot.

The Funchaser was a lower priced unit that lacked some of the qualities of the Classic and some of the standard items. It was the predecessor of the Funlite and the later built Towlite models. The Classics, Funchasers, and Funlights were all built in the original Hi-Lo factory in Butler, Ohio. Later the Towlite was built in the new factory down the road in Bellville, Ohio. Eventually the Classic line moved into the new factory also.

The old factory became the repair facility for warranty work, etc. That became JR Repair after the company went out of business.

Some intersting reading: http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f52/50-years-hilo-1663/

History lesson.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Thanks Wrascal- I calculate as you, about 4K# of Gross trailer weight if this is indeed what I think it is. The dealer will weigh it for me prior to me driving over to look at it so I know for certain.

I figure a tongue weight of 400# plus maybe 200# behind the axle which includes anything in the vehicle and the WDH. So, maybe 600# of tongue weight.

Yes, tomorrow I will lay cardboard down on the garage floor (too cold to lay there w/o it: 2* at daylight this morning) and crawl under to see if I can find a tag on the hitch. I'm not certain if I have a 3500# or 5K#.

Best not to wait for me to arrive, you'll most likely be pretty thirsty when I get there.-J

Excuse me for not waiting as I'm now on my second Special -coke and rum (the beer was warm/ bar maiden getting finer); Shhhh, I told my bride I was taking the dog for a late walk.
I don't know the Liberty specs but this may help you:

Class 1 (Class I) trailer hitch with capacity of up to 2,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight.

Class 2 (Class II) trailer hitch with weight-carrying rating of up to 3,500 lbs gross trailer weight and 300/350 lbs tongue weight.

Class 3 (Class III) trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 5,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. Also sometimes used to refer to a hitch with any 2" receiver, regardless of rating. *PROVIDED THIS IS A FACTORY HITCH* I SUSPECT THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE.

Class 4 (Class IV) trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 10,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 1,000 - 1,200 lbs tongue weight. Although many times any hitch with a capacity greater than 5,000 lbs gross weight is referred to as a Class 4.

Do note, the marketing lawyers have used minimal (safe) numbers, only loaded at 10%.

I guess in fairness I should point out ... many, many, many people ignore their actual numbers and pull over-loaded everyday. In your case you need not worry about busting any remaining warranty (Jeep), but legally you could be held accountable if something went wrong - and that includes your insurance company denying to honor any claims.

__________________
2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle

This might help....

Travel Trailer Weight Calculator

__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

The trailer was weighed today by the dealer @3400#; much more than I suspected so maybe it is a 25' as it measures from ball to bumper.

My hitch is a class 3 as I ordered it and installed it. I checked the order I placed to verify this and it is 500#/5000#.

So, we are driving to see it Friday, taking the Jeep Liberty to tow the unit as a trial before buying. I suspect we will find the Jeep underpowered!

If I am satisfied with the condition and price I will store it there and shop for a larger tow vehicle. Then we can start this all over again................ but, maybe buying the RV first is a good way to go in order to assure a good fit between RV and vehicle.

The dealer said I should have a 8K# WDH which seems a bit high. I figure I will be fully loaded at 4500# or less. In the past with RV's I've never traveled with full water, gray or black tanks. I usually carry enough water to get thru' the day and for an emergency. Then dump/load before I leave in the morning if traveling. We rarely dry camped.

Would you purchase an 8K# WDH? Or go with a 6K# WDH? The 6 will provide 600# TW and 6K# trailer weight which exceeds the expected weights. I'm concerned an 8 may bounce the trailer to death.(?)

Liability- yes, I've thought about that and the prospect of being sued. A good lawyer will find multiple avenues for a law suit should someone be injured.

Thanks again for all the help and sorry I was too slow on the libations.-J

If the HiLo is 3400# and your hitch is 500# then your Jeep is capable of bringing it home with you - no need to make two trips. Just don't preload the Jeep with unnecessary weight robbing items (like the mother in law).

This trip would also tell you if you need another tow vehicle (larger engine and/or more payload) - or not.

I'd postpone the WDH until later on; if purchasing another tow vehicle it may not be necessary.

__________________
2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle

Additional personal info, as I lived it. I had an 06 Ford E350 van (one ton) that I intended to use for pulling, but I was unable to find any campers that I liked and could afford; after several years I eventually sold it for a loss.

Within two months I found/purchased my HiLo. I pulled it home with my Honda RidgeLine. The Honda was more than capable, but listening to the higher engine revs (while pulling) eventually got to me - and so I again went shopping.

So, I found/purchased an older F250/V10. Talk about excess capability, no WDH hitch required; but like those laws of physics, we must expand to use that vessel.

With dogs and grandkids, things were tight in the HiLo, then we stumbled into a nice affordable fifth wheel. Yup, we purchased it and sold the HiLo.

Believe it or not, I'm again looking for another tow vehicle. I'm wanting more amenities, a larger cab for the dogs, and if shopping - greater payload, for just in case another deal comes along.

To summarize, get your final tow vehicle up front, don't do like I did.

__________________
2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle

Today I picked the brain of the local U-Haul owner and he pretty much agreed; 8K# WDH was excessive. He said in the perfect day; no wind/little traffic and dry roads and wired brakes, my vehicle would be OK w/o the WDH but I think I want a WDH anyway, especially with this vehicle.

So, off Sat. to take a look. Thanks Again-J

The Hi-Lo owners manual recommends a WDH.

__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Real men don't need a manual telling them what to do (that's the wifes' job).

My interest in postponing a WDH was simple due to your possible replacing the tow vehicle AND your HiLo purchase is still "iffy". While I find it easy to spends others money - I'm a tight-wad.

Don't forget the pics, otherwise it never happened.

__________________
2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle

Our 25ft. HiLo Classic swayed while driving on dry roads. We got a WDH and never have been sorry.

OK, so we woke early Fri. and drove to the Greater Chicago area to buy and retrieve our new home on wheels. The back of the jeep was loaded with warm clothes and several sheets of thick cardboard so I could lay on the ground and inspect the underbody. (Not required in certain parts of La. I'm told) I had wood blocks, jack tools and my wife. MIL stayed home so as not to overload the vehicles or my butt.(Thanks for the tip Wrascal) Up at 4AM eastern and with numerous stops to offload coffee and onload more we arrived about 10AM Central. We find old bones and joints require more frequent stops and we ain't gona' talk prostrate's.

Obviously, the man who wrote, "How to lie with statistics", had not yet held a digital camera with an editing program. A quick look had us on our way with a heavy sense of relief that we had not bought "sight unseen". The sale of this unit may require a man well versed in selling horses.
So, back to square one, or maybe square ten armed with the knowledge and education I'm getting here for free.

I will be back................................Jerry

Regarding a WDH- I suspect any company would want to sell the WDH and not want to go on record saying one is not required. I spoke to a trailer company owner and Reese rep who said the purpose of the WDH is for load leveling. If the tow vehicle is rated for the total load and the bumper does not drop more than 2" when you hook up, the WDH is not required altho', it would be a benefit in towing.-J