Using refrig on gas while traveling? - Page 3 - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

garrett · 03-27-2013, 10:21 PM

I have traveled 700 miles running my fridge on gas. As a precaution I would back out of gas stations. if your worried about air flow in the camper open a roof vent slightly. When I ran on DC id didn't keep food cold and battery would wear down on long trips then you get to your destination and the camper doesn't raise.

RichR · 03-28-2013, 09:03 AM

If you have a good charge line from the tow vehicle, which many don't, your fridge will draw more power than it can supply. Check to see if your charge line is even producing, you could have a blown fuse. Dual batteries that are fully charged before you leave will also be a good help. Many people have increased the wire size and run a separate wire from the TV to the trailer. No less than 8 gauge wire and a 30 amp fuse should be used. Factory wiring is notoriously undersized.

azmichael · 04-13-2013, 08:58 AM

I am a new owner of a 29' 1999 Classic. I don't see a position for "DC" use. My switch only shows AC, and Gas. How do I put it on "DC?"

Regarding the Fan: I have a switch on the side of the fridge for the fridge fan, but I don't hear anything, and when I go outside the trailer, remove the panel and get right next to the fridge components, I don't hear the fan either. Is my fan not working?

RichR · 04-13-2013, 10:51 AM

Last question first, the fan runs only when the fridge cooling tubes get over 100 degrees +/-. It has a temperature control in the power wiring. If it doesn't work when the fridge is on then you will have track down the problem.

First question, not all RV fridges run on DC. But I think all factory standard HiLo had the 3 way fridges in 1999. Check your fridge manual if you have one or go to the Forum Reference Library and see if you can find one that matches your fridge model number. Refrigerator - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

sam · 04-13-2013, 04:30 PM

Our original ref. was a three way. Our replacement is a two way,gas and electric. May the Ref. has been replaced.

azmichael · 04-13-2013, 09:23 PM

Thanks for the info. That is the first time I ever posted anything on anything. I found part of my problem. The fan blades have come off the motor. I couldn't get it back on and have it run smoothly or run at all, possibly because the tube temp was not above 100. i am in PHX, and it won't be long for that to be no problem. It seems the fridge is pushed back against the upper box wall and caused the fan to snap off. When I get it back on it won't spin freely. I'll have to continue to work on it or take it in. But I found the fan and part of the problem thanks to some help from you. I really appreciate this forum already!

RichR · 04-14-2013, 12:12 AM

You should replace the fan with a 12 volt computer type muffin tin fan. They run much quieter and use less power. If you do a search here for refrigerator fans you may see some discussion on the subject. The temperature control is a little round button wired in series in the power line to the fan. You could put a jumper around it to see if the fan runs.

azmichael · 04-18-2013, 12:09 PM

It's been cool here, and I see where it will only run when above 100 degrees. So, I guess I have to wait for the temps to come up so the controller will switch on to see if the fan will turn. If so, then I have to figure out a way to get up in there and mount the fan to the motor.
The computer fan sounds good, but if I can get the current system to work; that would be fine.

RichR · 04-18-2013, 08:48 PM

You will probably have to remove the upper outside vent to get to it and then it may not be a fun spot to get at.

retiredcamper47 · 04-19-2013, 01:04 AM

az, To speed things up, aim a hair dryer toward the fridge fins with the fan switch turned on. This should activate the fan.

Bob

azmichael · 04-19-2013, 10:49 AM

Great idea, why didn't I think of that? I'll get in there this weekend. You mean the fins inside the reefer, correct?

JIM L · 04-19-2013, 07:40 PM

The fins he is talking about are behind the fridg that you access from the outside. Remove the lower panel on the outside behind the fridg and the fins are at the top of the fridg. There is a small heat activated switch attached to one of the fins that turns on the fan when the fin gets hot, aprox 100 degrees. You can also trace the switch wires back to the terminal block and jump across the two terminals and the fan should start. This bypasses the switch. If you need to get to the fan, remove the top louvered panel, quite a few screws.

Papa · 04-20-2013, 11:35 AM

Well here goes Papa talking about a subject he knows little about "electricity". I have read through many of the responses concerning what mode to operate the refrig on while traveling. For what it's worth here is what I've learned or do.
First I have always to NEVER run the refrigerator on GAS when in the down position and traveling. So I don't I run my refrig on "DC" when traveling.
My first lesson was on our return trip home from our first camping trip. When we got home the camper would not raise because the battery we dead. I tow with a GMC truck. I learned the hard way that the lift motor when raising he top on the Hi Lo pulls more amps than the GMC fuse (30 amps). We had stopped on the way home and I had raised the top WITH THE TRAILER PLUGGED INTO THE TRUCK. I learned that is a NO NO. Raising the top with the trailer plugged into the truck causes the fuse to fail. Once the fuse as failed the truck is no longer charging the trailer batteries. So the rest of the trip home the refrig was running off the batteries which were not being charged. SO I NEVER RAISE MY TOP WHILE CONNECTED TO MY TRUCK.
Before we leave on a trip we always run the refig. on AC for a couple of days before leaving. When we load it it is always with cold foods and frozen foods. When we leave we set the refrigerator on #3. That is about mid way on the refrig's temp settings.
If we stop longer that to just fuel the truck or to run to the rest room we raise the top and cut the refrigerator OFF. Like if we stop for lunch somewhere. Remember it's somewhat like a cooler. It will hold the cold for a while if you don't open it. So if we stop for long periods of time we cut it off. Then cut it back on when we resume our trip.
Following these tips which many I learned from reading the owners manual and what others have written we seem to have a well functioning refrig. Hope this helps somewhat.
God Bless
Papa

Papa · 04-20-2013, 11:37 AM

Sorry, I should have proofed read before I posted. I should have said I never run my refrig on GAS. I always use DC when in the down position and running.
Sorry,
God Bless
Papa

RichR · 04-20-2013, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papa

Well here goes Papa talking about a subject he knows little about "electricity". I have read through many of the responses concerning what mode to operate the refrig on while traveling. For what it's worth here is what I've learned or do.
First I have always to NEVER run the refrigerator on GAS when in the down position and traveling. So I don't I run my refrig on "DC" when traveling.
My first lesson was on our return trip home from our first camping trip. When we got home the camper would not raise because the battery we dead. I tow with a GMC truck. I learned the hard way that the lift motor when raising he top on the Hi Lo pulls more amps than the GMC fuse (30 amps). We had stopped on the way home and I had raised the top WITH THE TRAILER PLUGGED INTO THE TRUCK. I learned that is a NO NO. Raising the top with the trailer plugged into the truck causes the fuse to fail. Once the fuse as failed the truck is no longer charging the trailer batteries. So the rest of the trip home the refrig was running off the batteries which were not being charged. SO I NEVER RAISE MY TOP WHILE CONNECTED TO MY TRUCK.
Before we leave on a trip we always run the refig. on AC for a couple of days before leaving. When we load it it is always with cold foods and frozen foods. When we leave we set the refrigerator on #3. That is about mid way on the refrig's temp settings.
If we stop longer that to just fuel the truck or to run to the rest room we raise the top and cut the refrigerator OFF. Like if we stop for lunch somewhere. Remember it's somewhat like a cooler. It will hold the cold for a while if you don't open it. So if we stop for long periods of time we cut it off. Then cut it back on when we resume our trip.
Following these tips which many I learned from reading the owners manual and what others have written we seem to have a well functioning refrig. Hope this helps somewhat.
God Bless
Papa

I would say you have summed things up pretty well.

If we are going to be on the road for no more than four hours +/- we leave the fridge turned off. This is making sure it was well cooled and loaded with cold stuff to start with. On longer trips we will run it in DC mode, and if we stop to explore on the way we run the top up and switch to the LP mode. We have never had a problem. Maybe we have been lucky. We have dual batteries that probably help.

PappaP · 04-23-2013, 07:38 PM

I used the same method as explained by Papa and it works for me as well. Just hook up a day or two before leaving and it will cool down over night, then store cold and frozen food and ready to travel.
Also, coming home from about an 8hr drive, I left the refrig off and when I got home the remaining food that was inside was still cold to the touch. This was on a trip from North Grand Canyon back to Phoenix and in June, so as many of you know it is above 110 degrees during that time frame in Phoenix.

Attached are a few pictures that might help out with the fan placement near the cooling fins on the refrig also. The pictures of the fan are looking up towards the top from the bottom access panel opening. It is possible that you may have to remove the upper panel on the outside to get access to replace that fan. I thought the same thing before about my fan as I didn't hear it coming on and after awhile I finally heard it coming on, and when investigating further I had also found that the temp had to be high enough for the fan to come on. And you are correct that it won't be long before you reach the 100 degree test point here in PHX.

Hope this helps,

azmichael · 04-27-2013, 07:35 PM

I've been trying everything. The fan will not go on even with the hair dryer. I'm not getting any current to the sensor.
Does the 12V system and sensor/fan only work when the system is on propane?

I'm thinking that is why I'm not getting any current at the sensor. Because when I'm testing it I am on a 12o hook up. The fridge works fine, but I want to find out what is wrong with the fan/sensor or otherwise.

RichR · 04-27-2013, 08:41 PM

The fan works independently from the fridge, and it works in all modes. You have the option whether or not to run the fan by turning the switch on or off on the side of the fridge. You need to check for power at the switch, the temperature sensor, the inline fuse, and at the fan.

JIM L · 04-27-2013, 09:11 PM

The fan operates on whichever power mode you are on. When the fins heat up to the temp set point of the sensor/switch the switch turns on the power to the fan. Follow the two wires back from the sensor/switch on the fin down to the back of the fridg. One of the wires should come to a inline fuse and the other to goes up to the fan. Check for a good fuse and 12V dc at the fuse. If you have the 12V dc you can connect the 12V wire to the other wire that goes up to the fan and the fan should come on. When you do this you have bypassed the switch. If the fan comes then the sensor/switch is bad. If the fan does not come on then the fan is bad, assuming no broken wires or bad connection. There are a lot of wire nut connections on the HiLo and they will loosen sometimes. Hope this is clear enough for you to follow. If it is not raining tomorrow I will pull my HiLo out of the shed and will look at this circuit and give some better instructions. As far as I can tell this circuit is not on any of the wiring diagrams.

JackandJanet · 04-27-2013, 09:16 PM

Don't overlook the inline fuse Rich mentioned. On my trailer it's in the wiring behind the outside access panels that Pappa showed you in his second picture. I'd be almost willing to bet money on it being blown if the fan motor is OK. You should be able to apply 12V directly to the fan to see if it works if you have a long enough jumper wire.

- Jack