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05-23-2017, 03:15 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: TX
Posts: 43
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1703T anybody removed the black water tank?
I need to drop the tank because the drain connection is dripping. Looking underneath, I see a couple of straps and the electrical connections for the level sensor. Is it that simple? Is there anything else I should know/do?
Ted aka Luisa48
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05-23-2017, 03:32 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,693
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Ted, my drain was dripping too, but I determined it was happening at the blade valve. I replaced that without dropping the tank. It's not hard to do.
My blade valve had become very hard to open and close too, and that occurred shortly before the leak. If you have similar symptoms, maybe that's all you need to fix.
I got the blade valve online from E-Trailer, but I seem to recall seeing them in ACE Hardware too.
- Jack
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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew
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05-23-2017, 06:59 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Riverside County, CA
Posts: 691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luisa48
I need to drop the tank because the drain connection is dripping. Looking underneath, I see a couple of straps and the electrical connections for the level sensor. Is it that simple? Is there anything else I should know/do?
Ted aka Luisa48
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Same as Jack. Replaced the Blade Valve which I got at a local RV parts dealer.
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Fantastic Wife
2005 Toyota Tundra V-8 4.7L
2705T Tow Lite
1999 21T Tow Lite
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05-23-2017, 07:17 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,225
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Black and grey water tanks
Dh learned from the horrible experience of a HiLo owner. Maintenance item lube both slide valves on the grey and black tank. They will be easier to operate.
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05-23-2017, 07:46 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: ohio
Posts: 454
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blade valve also available on amazon cheap.
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05-24-2017, 11:24 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: TX
Posts: 43
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Thanks all for info on the slide valve. Unfortunately, the leak is definitely at the joint where the 4" drain enters the tank. Pull down on the slide valve a bit and I can see a gap opening and closing and the drip is from there.
A removal difficulty I foresee is that the drains are all connected up like PVC plumbing, So I'm hoping that the big slide valve can be disassembled such that I only have to drop the blackwater tank, not both.
Thanks so far,
Ted
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05-24-2017, 01:14 PM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,693
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Ted, I think you can do what you are hoping. When I replaced my slide valve, the drain pipe was completely separated at the point it was installed. I think you should be able to lower the black tank by itself.
You MIGHT be able to fix the leak at the joint with fiberglass (Bondo) or similar material. It's possible you could do it without removing the tank too. But, I'm sure any repair would be easier if the tank were removed.
- Jack
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05-24-2017, 03:33 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: TX
Posts: 43
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Got the slide valve removed. Was hoping to remove the elbow than joins to the tank by completing the parting of the sealing material but no - it looks like I'll have to drop the tank after all. Such fun . . . .
[edit] turns out I posted in the wrong forum, as noobs do [/edit]
After reading the thread below, I may yet be able to bodge it up in situ without dropping the tank.
http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f27/...2o-tanks-2979/
Ted
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05-24-2017, 05:33 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,693
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Good on you, Ted. I didn't even remember the thread on repairing the black and grey tanks. Looks to me like it's just a "patch job".
- Jack
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05-26-2017, 12:54 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 23
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Ted,
My 2407T had a leak like yours right at the flange of the blackwater tank. I managed to fix it without removing the tank. The process is described here in the forum as well as on YouTube. The toughest part for me was grinding an ABS fitting to create a thicker liquid ABS to apply over fiberglass screening. I was temped not to do it myself, but it turned out to be an easy fix. I cleaned the work area well, applied a layer of patch, waited a day, repeated to add an additional layer, waited another day, and applied a final layer. It is much stronger now than it was when new. Each layer smoothed itself as it cured and the final result looks professionally done (IMHO).
Read several of the how-to threads, ask questions, get answers, and have at it.
George
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05-26-2017, 10:30 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central Virginia
Posts: 584
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Tank repair
Hi Luisa; The tank and 3" line are ABS. You get a better repair using ABS cement and fiberglass cloth. Go to Lowes, plumbing dept and get a large can of ABS cement and a pack of fiberglass cloth from the paint dept. Clean the area to be repaired with MEK or acetone, from the paint dept. Apply the Cement around the pipe and flange, then the fiberglass cloth. Use the applicator in the cement can to work the fiberglass cloth down into the ABS cement, then apply another coat of cement over the cloth. After 4 or 5 hours, repeat with another layer of cement, cloth and cement. I have fixed tanks and pipes like this on every RV i have owned over the years and never had one fail. You get a better fix when you use the cement of the same material as the tanks and pipes. I have never had to drop the tanks.
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Jim L & Faye
2805C
2003 Silvarado diesel crew cab
2017 Silvarado, crew cab 1500 6.2L gas w/ 8 speed tranny
central VA
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05-26-2017, 11:33 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,256
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Here is a link to a thread I posted and the repair. might help
rick
http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f27/...nted-fix-4546/
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2201 TL
2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4
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