1967 hi lo chain lift

Hi Everyone,
I bought a 1967 Hi lo Voyager. It has both hand crank and a chain lift mechanism.

Here's I a picture of the lift mechanism. Can anyone tell me more about it. Was told by the seller, to hook up electrical to my car, it would use my car battery for power, and would lift up the camper when I press the toggle switch. Not working.

Thanks for your help.
Donna

donzerby said:

Hi Everyone,
I bought a 1967 Hi lo Voyager. It has both hand crank and a chain lift mechanism.

Here's I a picture of the lift mechanism. Can anyone tell me more about it. Was told by the seller, to hook up electrical to my car, it would use my car battery for power, and would lift up the camper when I press the toggle switch. Not working.

Thanks for your help.
Donna

Click to expand...

No help from me Donna. You have something I've never seen before, but I'm sure you will get suggestions from other forum members that have more electrical experience. I'm good with changing light bulbs.

Donna, I've never worked on anything like this, but I think, from the pics that the gear on the motor is not engaged with the large chain drive. This very strong (if working) little motor rotates that large gear thus moving the chain. IS it fully engaged? I don't know how to adjust that motor.
Tree

This is first I've ever seen that arrangement, it certainly looks heavy duty. I had to study it for a while.

Is there any sound coming from the solenoids or the motor when you hit the switch? If not you need to see if there is any power getting to the switch and also the solenoids. You should at least hear the solenoids clicking if there is power there. One is for up the other for down.

Curious if the motor turns. I click to enlarge photo and it looks as though the motor gear is not in contact with the chain drive gear.
Tree

The unit to the right of the elec motor looks like a early style riding lawn mower transmission (2 speed, forward and reverse).

Bob

Thank you everyone for the comments and information.

Here is what I know so far:

no power to the toggle switch or the motor
the motor can turn and is connected to the large gear

I am getting power to the marker lights, tail lights, and brake lights. So I know the connection to the battery is working.

There is an exposed red wire underneath, but it looks like AL wire, certainly not copper, it is very corroded. The red wire from the surge brakes does not connect to the main red wire, it looks like it missing a connector. The red wire is connected to the main red wire of the wiring harness running the length of the trailer.

Looking for a circuit diagram. I downloaded the manual for a 1971 Snyder Hi Lo 14 ft and I am hoping it will be similar for a 1967 14 ft.


If it is from a riding lawn mower do you have to engage the transmission by moving that lever? Could it be that would prevent the hi lo from raising or lowering accidently? Personally I would like a safety type of "switch" somewhere.

At this point I am wondering if I have a bad wire. Will keep on it and with the help from everyone, we will figure this out.

Just got this 1967 cutie in December 2015 and I love it! Will be restoring it over time.

Donna

You should have 12 volts all the time at the large terminal on the solenoids, on the one opposite the wire that goes to the motor. If not, trace that wire back to the battery. In the photo it appears to be a red wire that is going to the those terminals. Aluminum wire was popular back in the sixties for house wiring until they found out it was a fire hazard. Check that wiring through and maybe replace it with copper.

The energizing circuit should be pretty straightforward - the solenoids (look kind like old Ford starter solenoids) determine the polarity applied to the motor, which would make the motor turn clockwise or counter-clockwise (raise/lower).

Interestingly, the motor has THREE wires, not two. Not sure I understand that, since a DC motor would only require two wires - by reversing polarity (via those solenoids) would reverse direction on the motor. My guess is the motor actually has two windings, rather than one (as is typical with DC motors).

Anyway, I would guess the black on the motor is ground, and either the red or the green are positive when a solenoid is energized, which would occur when you choose "up" or "down" on the switch. (i.e. energizing one wire raises, the other lowers).

Most likely causes of failure (or where I'd start):
1. Verify when you press up or down that you are getting power to the solenoids

2. Verify there is power to the solenoids from the battery circuit (solenoids are essentially relays - energizing one closes an internal switch to allow higher current to pass to the motor).

3. Verify that power actually gets across the solenoid when energized.

All of this can be accomplished with a simple test light, but you probably want two people - one to handle the test light, one to actuate the switch.

A wiring diagram would be helpful, if you don't have the background in these circuits.

There doesn't appear to be any circuit breaker in line like newer trailers have but you may want to check on that. Also, if there is power from the battery to the solenoids, try jumping from the hot wire on the solenoids to the small, switch, terminal and see if the solenoids actuate. If they do the problem could be between them and the switch.

Hi RichR and Knottyrig,

I thought that I would disconnect the 12 V DC motor and apply 12 V directly to the motor. Basically troubleshoot going back to the connection to the battery.

It has been rainy in AZ, have to wait. I follow the Golden electrical rule, red to red, black to black, and keep my feet out of water!

My long term plan is to replace: all the wiring, gas hoses, and check the plumbing.

When I do the electrical, I will put in some safety features.

Thanks for all the help and will keep you posted.

Don

donzer - I really recommend NOT connecting direct to the motor unless you're SURE of the internal wiring.

12v motors can draw a lot of current, very quickly, and 12v batteries are happy to oblige in providing that current. I've seen wrenches welded to batteries in 1/4 second because they cause a direct short. Direct shorting in the motor (if you connect to the wrong wires) could potentially fry the motor. Let's see if we can find a diagram, or do some testing first.


If you have an OHM meter ($5 at harbor freight - everyone should own a couple), you can disconnect power from the motor (make sure no battery is connected) and test resistance between the black/red/green wires. I'd expect infinite resistance from green to red, and some resistance between black and the other two. This would indicate that red and green run to different windings in the motor. Then you could more safely verify with a powered test.

I suspect the motor is ok - a more likely fault would be the switch, the relays, or wiring.

Heck, with a simple test light (or volt meter) you can verify you have power getting to the solenoids/relays. That's where I'd start - because it's pretty simple, and a positive result would prevent lots more work (my old man would say K.I.S.S - Keep It Simple, Stupid. In other words, try the easiest/cheapest "solution" first - it can often save time/money).

Hi,

Not going to use another car battery, that has like 300 cold cranking amps. Too much current for a testing situation. Going to use a DC supply.

Yes I have a both an analog and digital voltage meter. I am confidant in forward and reverse electrical connections for the motor.

I am not sure how old all the components are since the camper is 48 years young. I do know wiring looks original. I can not predict what part of this circuit is bad. I will have to systematically test everything to find out what is not working.

Don

Hi Everyone,

Got it working. Didn't have good contact to my tow vehicle, because it uses the battery from the tow vehicle. Works great.

Have had some health issues, but I am better now. Had to put rebuild on hold, but I am back at it now.

Now rebuilding the brakes, because electric brakes available do not fit. The spindle is too short.

Thanks for all the help.

Don