1969 Traveler hilo Help request & data - Page 4 - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

69hilo2 · 08-04-2013, 10:51 PM

Well looked for the Timken bearing folks and found them. After a little bit I found a listing for the bearing that I have. At least my bearing number is on a list someplace. The Timken cat also has several cross listings for the race it might go with. Only 4 different listings of course. Should be interesting to see if the bearing on the other side matches. Of course it will, I hope.

Later Tim

Timken catalog

Catalogs

69hilo2 · 08-04-2013, 11:03 PM

Right now I have a mis-match in the way the two wheels look. But they are both 14 inch - 5 lug - 4 1/2 inch bolt circle. Just another FYI
Someday I hope to have some new wheels and tires. Bearings first then tires and wheels.

Later Tim

RichR · 08-05-2013, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69hilo2

RichR
Thanks for that great link. Of course the bearing is not the same as anything listed.

Now to figure out more about the axle. Where is that tag or info located??

Of course I remember another item at the R&R trailer shop. An axle hub, if I remember right from both, our hilo and what I saw at the shop it's four nuts and bolts and you switch out the axle hub from the main axle. Another interesting thing to think about.

Many axles have a metal band with the info stamped on them. Axles after 2001 had a stamping on the back middle of the axle. http://dexteraxle.com/Search?cx=0089...14j31947530j21

This is the Dexter website: Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - Home

Cruise through it, it may have what you are looking for.

RichR · 08-05-2013, 09:07 AM

Look on the Dexter resources drop down lists and there is a bearing chart listed. The brake and hub sizes determine the bearings.

PopRichie77 · 08-05-2013, 09:22 AM

The axles on a 69 were not made by Dexter. They were before AL-KO and then Dexter.

RichR · 08-05-2013, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PopRichie77

The axles on a 69 were not made by Dexter. They were before AL-KO and then Dexter.

Scratch my above info.

PopRichie77 · 08-05-2013, 11:09 AM

Someone on the forum knew the name of the manufacture of the axles, but I can't remember who. I do remember that parts for the brakes and so forth are no longer available. Bearings can always be got or cross referenced.

69hilo2 · 08-05-2013, 12:01 PM

Well just got back from R&R trailer and what nice folks. What I thought was a problem is NOT. RaRa. Things are not perfect but ok. Now to button things up on the one side and double check the other side. Also they told me that we have 3500 pound hubs. Also talking about the braking system. Nice Folks, they are in the Hudson, Fla area.

Next project will be to finish redoing the running lights.

Thanks to everyone on the axle info.

Later Tim & Nancy and a dog that wants to go camping

69hilo2 · 08-05-2013, 11:54 PM

Well got everything back together. Hope to work on and finish the lights this week.

Later Tim

69hilo2 · 08-06-2013, 03:05 PM

Well found these the other day and thought that I would share.
When I was wiring the main cable that goes from the truck to the hilo I found the hilo company had used a crimping wire nut. In reviewing I like this better than anything else that I've used before. If you use a regular wire nut it can come off as you bump up and down the road causing problems. If you use an butt splice joint then something could pull out or whatever.
Well I found the crimping wire nut that the hilo company used on our 1969 hilo.
I bought a small pack of 10 for under $2.00 at home depot. You might be able to get them anywhere. It's a Tyco Electronics product. AMP Closed-End Splice Connectors. Also here is pic of the product. Going to have to get another pack of them as I'm still rewiring the running lights.

Later Tim

retiredcamper47 · 08-06-2013, 03:48 PM

I always put a piece of electrician's tape around the wirenut and wire when I install them on my trailer (interior & exterior). I did this when I installed ceiling fans in my house also. No problem with the wirenuts coming loose due to vibration this way.

Bob

PopRichie77 · 08-06-2013, 03:56 PM

I soldered all the connections on my 95, battery box and all lights, even the brakes where I then put a wire nut and filled it with silicon never had a problem after that.
also solder all the connections in the battery box and the brakes on the 2209, no problems yet.

Wrascal · 08-06-2013, 04:29 PM

most of the time; choosing to ignore my formal training that stated that crimping was better at resisting vibration.

Has anyone tried the southern way, duct-tape?

69hilo2 · 08-06-2013, 05:22 PM

Sounds like another couple of good ideas. I like the idea of twisted the wires together and then putting a crimp cap over them and locking everything into place.

Later Tim

Norton Rider · 08-06-2013, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PopRichie77

I soldered all the connections on my 95, battery box and all lights, even the brakes where I then put a wire nut and filled it with silicon never had a problem after that.
also solder all the connections in the battery box and the brakes on the 2209, no problems yet.

Soldering wires that are subject to vibration can be problematic because it stiffens the conductor and can lead to wire breaks due to fatigue. As was mentioned before, wire nuts are not that good an idea either.

Since I'm so used to boats I also follow the American Boat & Yacht Council standards on my boat and RV. These standards prohibit the use of wire nuts. They recommend good crimp connectors instead. High quality crimp connectors (not the ones usually found at the local auto parts) will make connections last forever if crimped properly. These connectors are also available with heat-activated, adhesive lined, shrink wrap insulation. These are highly water resistant and can be used in wet areas, such as the trailer brake connections at the backing plates.

PopRichie77 · 08-06-2013, 07:33 PM

All I can say is I towed the 95 about 90,000 mile and had no problems.

Wrascal · 08-06-2013, 09:04 PM

I believe all these are acceptable methods to electrically connect the needs of a camper; if it fails they're all easily repaired. Now on a space ship to mars, we may need to comply with higher specs.
I still like duct-tape and the smell of flux. Diesel and napalm are also nice.

Guess I should add that I've never done any elec. work on my camper, outside of plugging up a new water pump. There I used 2 wire nuts. Anything more permanent (like hidden in the walls) I'd use what 69HL did.

69hilo2 · 08-11-2013, 10:58 PM

This is a duck tape free zone..

As far as hooking a couple of wires together I like some of those ideas but going to stick with that crimping wire nut that I post a pic of. Good enough for hilo good enough for me.

Well just got back from driving 8 hours each way to go visit my son for a couple of days. Must say that driving at 78 mph and getting 34 mpg is nice. Don't think that I'll get anything near that towing my hilo with my truck. LOL
Did pick out a few nice places that we might camp at sometime.

Later Tim

69hilo2 · 08-14-2013, 10:00 PM

What I was up to over the weekend. Not working on the hilo.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f3/n...-alabama-3395/

Later Tim