Hi, All! I was readying my HiLo for a weekend trip, and the trailer wouldn't raise. It simply clicked when the switch to raise was pressed. My running truck was connected to the battery with jumpers and it still only clicked. Thinking my battery might be an issue, I removed the cables from the trailer's battery and hooked them to my running truck. Same symptom.

No fluid leaks anywhere. Was able to, after removing the propane tank assembly, able to manually jack the beast up enough to remove and test the solenoid. It tests good. Not sure where to go from here. Suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks. Joe & Lynne

Joe and Lynne - sorry to hear of your troubles! The "click", if it's coming from where the lift motor is, is the solenoid closing the switch contacts to deliver full battery power to the lift motor. If the motor didn't turn, it's a sign of a weak battery.

But, if you connected your running truck's battery to the HiLo battery with jumper cables, I'm surprised the top didn't go up. I can only assume now that there are poor contacts in the cabling from the trailer's battery to that motor and solenoid. I'd try to carefully check the positive and negative cabling in the trailer.

Also, if you can test your solenoid like it was done in this recent thread: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f22...shooting-7443/ where he disconnected the red cable from the battery to the side of the solenoid and touched it to the opposite terminal on the other side of the solenoid (you can expect a big spark) you might find the motor will lift the top. What you are doing this way is eliminating the solenoid and the circuitry from the lift switch to the solenoid and are applying full battery power directly to the lift motor. If that works, you are discovering the solenoid is bad, or, possibly some of the cabling to the motor from the battery is faulty.

If you can't find the problem, you COULD go ahead and go camping, where you will plan to use the manual lift to get the top up. Yes, it takes quite a few pumps, but if it works, there's no problem using it. My guess is, the top will still lower electrically, but you could use the manual lowering valve if necessary.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
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I removed the old solenoid, buggered the threads on one post, and broke that post. I'm batting 1000 here! After new solenoid was installed testing was still a no go. I bypassed the cable connections with jumper cables straight to the solenoid. Still no go. I can hear the solenoid click, but the hydraulic system just sits like a frozen burrito.

Next steps? Please?

Spoke with mechanical DH. He says your lifting switch could be bad?

Did you try bypassing the solenoid as in the link I gave to you? This applies 12V directly to the motor and if nothing happens then, you either have a bad motor, or, the ground connection to the motor is faulty. AND, if you leave the heavy battery wire connected to the solenoid input and then apply 12V directly from the battery to the lift switch input on the solenoid, you bypass the lift switch circuitry and if it lifts then, you know where to look next.

- Jack

If you use the manual lift does it lift up? If not, you’re probably looking at needing to replace the hydraulic cylinder. At least that’s what we discovered on ours. It wouldn’t lift either. Made a noise like it was wanting to click or engage but wouldn’t lift. Checked battery, switches, replaced solenoid too and no luck. Ended up being the hydraulic cylinder that went bad. Replaced it and works like a charm now.

Sorry that I've been remiss in my communication. It's been quite busy here as of late. Here is a bit more information:

The solenoid was properly bypassed and the motor works. The trailer will raise either manually or via bypassing the solenoid.

I've removed the solenoid and bench tested it. It works. However when installed the voltage across the solenoid posts when the switch is thrown is only 6 volts. That's why the motor won't kick in; voltage across is too low.

Not sure where to go from here. There must be an electrical drain somewhere?

I think the wiring to your battery is faulty, if the battery itself is good.

- Jack

Now that I've got it raised (via bypassing the solenoid), how do I lower the beast manually?

You should be able to lower it electrically by using the "down" position of the up/down switch. It takes very little current to open the lowering valve, and this doesn't involve the solenoid or lifting motor at all.

Failing that, there is a manual lowering valve at the hydraulic pump location. You'll need 2 people to use this. One to pull the safety bar release and the other to open the valve.

- Jack

Jack&Janet, Thank you for your patience with a Hi-Lo newbie and your expertise. I changed out the battery terminals and reworked the battery ground to a new place on the frame.

All just in time to take it out tomorrow! Thanks again, to all who have replied with assistance. It is appreciated.

Joe

Joe, I THINK, from your last post, that you've been able to get the top to work as it should now. If so, congratulations!

You'll find, I think, that the raising and lowering feature on the HiLo is largely trouble-free. If it doesn't raise, the problem is usually a low battery charge, or, as I think you found out, poor battery cable connections. The lift motor MUST have good battery power to work! Nothing else will supply the needed Amperage to operate it, and that includes plugging the trailer into shore power. If the battery current supply is low, nothing else will take its place.

Beyond that, just remember to inspect and lubricate the lifting cables and pulleys at least once each season. That's about all you have to do.

Happy camping!

- Jack