|
|
06-27-2011, 09:44 AM
|
#21
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central Virginia
Posts: 584
|
The sealer should do the job. I have used an elastomeric sealer (Lexell) for a dozen years and never had it fail or My rv's and homes. As for the seal on the window call J&R and see if they can help. Many owners are replacing the seal under the window, door and vent frames and this seal should be butyl rubber tape. I would encourge everyone to google Lexell (Sashco.com) and read the specs on this product.
__________________
__________________
Jim L & Faye
2805C
2003 Silvarado diesel crew cab
2017 Silvarado, crew cab 1500 6.2L gas w/ 8 speed tranny
central VA
|
|
|
06-27-2011, 12:45 PM
|
#22
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Quakertown, PA
Posts: 1,074
|
I believe your arrow is pointing to the rubber flap seal, you might get them at J R Repair.
Home - JR REPAIR
__________________
|
|
|
06-29-2011, 08:18 PM
|
#23
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 109
|
Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated, my wife and kids will be gone this weekend so I hope I have decent weather so I can seal the roof
|
|
|
06-30-2011, 10:47 PM
|
#24
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,219
|
sealing your roof
Suggestion,Tape off where you don't want the sealer to. go..When you are done take the tape off. We will be detailing our HiLo this weekend.
|
|
|
07-03-2011, 07:21 PM
|
#25
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 109
|
Went to seal the roof today and noticed that the roof vent seal didn't look the greatest so I clean off the silicone as best as I could (stupid stuff to use on a trailer!) and used a elastromeric sealer and ordered a roll of eternabond off of ebay, looks like maybe next weekend i'll seal the roof, time to sit back and have a few coors light and enjoy the long weekend
|
|
|
07-04-2011, 04:52 PM
|
#26
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 109
|
Started tearing into the left front of the camper today, this has had a leak for quite some time, the wood frame around the window was very rotten, nothing left to it, oh well time to continue
|
|
|
07-04-2011, 11:42 PM
|
#27
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,219
|
The fun begins and continues
Don't know if this will make you feel anybetter. We have to tear out quite a bit in our delaminated trailer. 90 HiLo Classic. We also will be spending two days tearing out two windows on the pasenger side. After putting the window back in with Butyl tape what caulk should we use to seal around the exterior window fiberglass?
|
|
|
07-05-2011, 06:58 AM
|
#28
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central Virginia
Posts: 584
|
SAM I would use Lexell. Look up Sashco, Inc. Log Home Maintenance and restoration products and sealants for conventional home construction. then look at their product Lexell and read the specs. This is great stuff and I have used it for about a dozen years and never had it fail. The web site will tell you where to get it locally. The web site Sashco.com
__________________
Jim L & Faye
2805C
2003 Silvarado diesel crew cab
2017 Silvarado, crew cab 1500 6.2L gas w/ 8 speed tranny
central VA
|
|
|
07-05-2011, 10:33 AM
|
#29
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,219
|
caulking
I got on the website when you did a previous post and wondered why or how it pertained to log homes. We have a building supply place near our home that I will try. Hubby goes their with his boss to get supplies. I also know ACE hardware is listed. I,m sure silicone caulk will not be usedany more for our house repairs. The beauty of learning things on this forum.
|
|
|
07-05-2011, 06:54 PM
|
#30
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 109
|
Maybe somebody can help me, I really want to seal the roof asap but I have ordered a roll of eternabond, can the eternabond be applied on top of the elastromeric sealer or should I wait until I receive the roll of eternabond? Thanks
|
|
|
07-05-2011, 11:29 PM
|
#31
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,219
|
sealing the roof
See if externa bond has a website to get your question answered.
|
|
|
07-06-2011, 05:55 PM
|
#32
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central Virginia
Posts: 584
|
Look on their website or on the product package for their 800 phone number for their customer service and call them. Have always found them them happy to help with technical questions
__________________
Jim L & Faye
2805C
2003 Silvarado diesel crew cab
2017 Silvarado, crew cab 1500 6.2L gas w/ 8 speed tranny
central VA
|
|
|
07-06-2011, 05:57 PM
|
#33
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central Virginia
Posts: 584
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sam
I got on the website when you did a previous post and wondered why or how it pertained to log homes. We have a building supply place near our home that I will try. Hubby goes their with his boss to get supplies. I also know ACE hardware is listed. I,m sure silicone caulk will not be usedany more for our house repairs. The beauty of learning things on this forum.
|
Sashco makes many products and some specially for log homes.
__________________
Jim L & Faye
2805C
2003 Silvarado diesel crew cab
2017 Silvarado, crew cab 1500 6.2L gas w/ 8 speed tranny
central VA
|
|
|
07-16-2011, 11:52 PM
|
#34
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 109
|
I started to repack the bearings today, it was only 90 with a heat index of 100, I think I may have lost a couple pounds today :-) I'll finish it off tomorrow and put some water in the fresh water tank, add some bleach and take it for a ride
|
|
|
07-18-2011, 12:29 PM
|
#35
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Salina, KS
Posts: 256
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtfan
Success, checked the fridge this morning and it has cooled off, now I guess it's time to see if the air works, too bad I don't have a 30 amp feed to try it.
I haven't mentioned it in this thread but I only paid $800 for this unit, it came with a WDH and a sway bar, I have about $100 into it so far and the biggest expense will be the tires, they look good but are more than 10 years old and i'm not interested in taking a chance with them
|
you can "test" your AC, with everything else turned off, with the Cord adapeter (often refered to as a dog bone) that lets you use your garage's wall socket. just use as short as possible extension cord, since your camper already has 25ft cord. A Test is a few minutes. Please note the AC can take a lot of "juice" to start, so if like me the socket you use also powers other things in the garage, the breaker might not hold it. I ended up moving mine to another breaker for use with the camper. I dont just run the AC with it, but the wife did while loading stuff. I do just enough to see that the AC will work, after care and maint.
use a lot of caution, use a good and big guage but short extension cord like an orange outdoor type 3 wire, I cannot stress enough to use short as you can get by with, even if you go buy one just for this purpose.
FWIW, when the wife did this --> ran the ac all afternoon while packing, it melted the connection on the extension cord to the dogbone. she doesnt do this anymore, lol.
About the fridge, Here's a tip fo you DF:
get a 12v fan or 2. and look for the thread about fridge fan... as you mentioned temps while working on this camper. You are in slightly cooler climate than me, as I live in Kansas & it has been 103 or more for 2 weeks, and expect more to come.
Anyway, I replaced the single factory fan that was wired to 12v through a thermostat on the fridge coils, that I never heard or saw it work. I took the original fan out, replaced with 2 superquiet fans from Newegg computers online store. My modification was also, to a self installed toggle switch with the same 12v supply that the singe fan had, from battery, bypassing the thermostat on fridge coils, directly to a toggle that I turn on, and it runs all the time I have fridge in operation. This took my non functioning fridge to functioning.
My fridge is a 2 door unit (rm2611) (means it has freezer and fridge). before mod, when camping and temps remotely reached 90 degrees, My fridge would stop working, and all the fride repair people would tell me it was a bad $400+ cooling unit. I now assume because the back of the fridge area was getting too hot, no air circulation was happeing, to alow cooling on the inside. However, I have not camped yet, at above 90 degrees yet this year since doing the mod, but it still seems promising.
I have read on here, that the factory fan you will hear it run, if everything else is quite in the camper. the dual fans I bought, are quiet and I cannot hear them, plus they move a lot of air. ALso, the Fans I bought were going to be used in my computer case, & they came with speed controlers, which are integrated into the wiring, and which are not accessable in camper (cable too short to mount easily). But there are probably better ones that are always full speed... but I made it all work out ok, fans run full speed, and since you cant see in there, so the wires wont distract the average joe, lol.
__________________
From Kansas: 29ft '95 5th, converted to toybox in rear, by Hilo. Pics soon, Some Here.
|
|
|
07-24-2011, 02:31 PM
|
#36
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 109
|
Resealed a window last night and started tearing apart the roof today, this is the biggest challenge that I have seen so far
|
|
|
07-24-2011, 02:32 PM
|
#37
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 109
|
|
|
|
07-25-2011, 10:08 PM
|
#38
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 109
|
After opening up the roof from the inside yesterday and noticed the 1x1 that is between the frame and the roof is wet, so I took the razor knife and opened up most of the roof on the kitchen side, I would say that 3/4 of the wood is wet so it looks like I won't be using this in a week and a half, next step will be to the remove the piece that holds the wall and the roof together and peel back part of the roof to replace the wet wood, I can't access it from the inside as it is behind the steel frame
|
|
|
07-25-2011, 11:03 PM
|
#39
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,682
|
The fact that wood is wet does not require it to be replaced. If the wood is not "rotted", it can be dried out and left in place. Even small rotted places can be repaired with a product like "Bondo", once the wood is dry.
Naturally, you need to locate and seal the source of the water leaks. But, you have to do that anyway.
I'd really try to use a fan powered heater and dry some of that before you start ripping things out.
- Jack
__________________
Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew
|
|
|
07-25-2011, 11:28 PM
|
#40
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 54
|
repaired all aspect of big roof leaks.... did i say big
opened all the windows in good weather
ceiling paneling started drying out
i left it wide open for several days of dry hot weather
no fan
it was magical
the ceiling paneling pulled up from it's sad sagging state
within 20 day of good weather (it did rain 3 times) and three small screw
and no paint...it's good as new
you really just got to wait it out... but it will dry
wish i'd taken pics
but who knew....lol
love my new to me 87' funchaser
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|