Can't find the reset switch

Howdy. I have the 1973 Hi-Lo for sale below. In preparation for selling it I had a few minor problems repaired including the up / down switch. In fact, because the switch wasn’t working, I had to drive it to the shop in the up position which may have something to do with the problem. Before driving it to the shop all the interior lights and fans worked. After getting it back, I find that the 12V system that runs inside isn't working. No lights or fan works, even when the camper is plugged in. All fuses are good and test hot. All accessories and outlets running 110 are hot. Both batteries are charged. None of the interior lights or fans works. I called the mechanic who worked on it. He said that he only touched the wires to the switch and it sounded like a resettable breaker or a safety switch somewhere got tripped. I have looked ALL OVER and cannot locate one. There is no safety or reset mentioned in the Owner’s Care and Use Manual. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for your help - Georgina

There should be one or two circuit breakers in the battery compartment. One is for the lift system and the other is for the rest of the trailer. The older trailers had a reset button on the breakers. The newer is a thermally controlled breaker. They look like a little box and should be connected to the wires coming off the battery. If you have a meter or a test light check for voltage before and after the breakers. The breakers can go bad, but they can be found at auto parts stores.

I get a charge outta you...

Thanks so much for the reply.

I took a photo but didn't get my photobucket URL to show up here. In any case, there is one small box with two screws mounted on the wall of the battery compartment. I think this is what my electrical schematic labels 30 amp circuit breaker. One side has a wire going to the solenoid. The other has two wires, one coming in from underneath (supposedly from the charge line) and the other going to the fuse panel. All the wires test hot with a voltmeter. I have felt all around for a reset, but have found none. I too was focusing here. Should I take wires off and clean even if voltage is showing up?

Any other ideas?

Grazie.

All the wires for the interior run through either a cable from the battery box to the upper half or run up on the inside usually near where the vent pipe goes up through and can be covered by a cloth sleeve. It could be disconnected somewhere. The exterior lights, taillights, etc. normally are wired through with them.

Thanks again. I found a spot in the upper cabinet where wires come in from the wires off of the front battery. There is a piece of metal sheeting covering the hole and allowing the wires to continue through the cabin. I will borrow back the voltmeter and test. BTW, the exterior lights are working.

Georgina said:

Thanks again. I found a spot in the upper cabinet where wires come in from the wires off of the front battery. There is a piece of metal sheeting covering the hole and allowing the wires to continue through the cabin. I will borrow back the voltmeter and test. BTW, the exterior lights are working.

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Yeah the tail and running lights are totally seperate, run off TV (tow vehicle) plug. if you have an outside lite near the door, it should be part of the 12v you dont have working. I still suspect the mechanic's work, I mean was working before he did anything. Electricity can escape some mechanics' grasp, just sayin. Even if it was me that did the switch work, and suddenly nothing works, I would now doubt myself and the work, since I know not to assume anyone is perfect, even me.

Did you check around where the switch is that the "repairman?" was working to see if anything could have been disturbed? In some models, especially newer, the master switch gives you the option of all off, lift pump, or 12 volt interior. It is located next to the lift switch and interconnects with the lift switch. I think I would be suspect of that area.

I am assuming that the top now goes up and down, and the battery is fully charged and has clean connections.

How are you using the volt meter? Holding the negative probe on a grounded terminal or to the frame, and the positive to a live connection, fuses, etc.? If the battery is in good shape and fully charged you should be reading 12.6 volts +/-.