I have a 2004 17 footer. The lift system does not lift the top more than a few inches, then poops out, no amount of additional time running lifts the top any further.

Reading over earlier posts on how to fix this problem I see info that seems to be contradictory, or I don't understand what I am reading. Given the hydraulic pump is working, I assume it is OK and the problem is in the cylinder.

Some posts seem to me to be suggesting that the top should be raised for removal and repair of the cylinder while other postings/replies seem to be suggesting the top should be in the lowered position. If it is should be lowered then I guess I'm all set.

If the top should be raised, I am sure I will need more than one lifting point (no strong guys hanging around my house so it will have to be jacks) Can I use just a couple of high lift jacks, or do I need more. If just a couple, how should they be placed, middle of the sides, or at corners, kitty-corner from each other?

First of all, how's your battery? Make sure it has a good charge. Secondly, how's your hydraulic reservoir? You should have fluid about an inch from the top of the reservoir with the trailer in the lowered position. Check the obvious first. If you need to raise the top, use four farm jacks at each corner. You can cut four 2X4's equally and place them on the outriggers to rest this top on. Good luck and keep us posted.

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

I appreciate RCReyes' response.

The main question I had still remains, should the top be raised for this repair, or lowered?

"Some posts seem to me to be suggesting that the top should be raised for removal and repair of the cylinder while other postings/replies seem to be suggesting the top should be in the lowered position. If it should be lowered then I guess I'm all set."

I suspect lowered is the way it should be as the piston of the hydraulic cylinder will be retracted, easier to handle than with an extended piston.

As of this post, Rich had done three. I agree that the lowered position should be used as the fluid is back in the reservoir.

https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f22...cylinder-5818/

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Just a small correction, Ruben - it was Treeclimber who had done the three repairs to the lift system and who posted the writeup. Rich reposted Tree's writeup in your link. Tree is the resident expert in the lift system we have in our HiLos.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew

Thanks, Jack!

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

If while you’re trying to lift you see almost full flow coming back into pump reservoir it’s your cylinder as a seal is leaking. I removed my cylinder about 3 months ago same problem & removed it with top down. Had cylinder serviced & fixed it

I followed treeclimber's directions up to the point where it talks about zip-tying the cables around the pulleys and removing a bolt and washer. The following might seem like common sense to some folks here, but my experience-tempered sense is telling me to know for sure before doing anything, experience tempered by learning how to do something by breaking it or making the fix a lot more difficult than necessary with the first try. I'd rather not do that with my HiLo.

I am having a problem understanding "bolt and washer".

I can see that removing the cables from their anchor point on the chassis would make more room to remove the cylinder, but it does not seem to be absolutely necessary to do that, it would make removal easier, though. However, there is no bolt and washer associated with the anchor point, rather removal of two nuts and washer frees the the cable from the anchor point.

The only possible "bolt and washer" that I see are the bolts that form the axles of the pulleys. I can't see the topside, but it seems likely that there are threads on the topside of the pulley housing for the bolt fastening. I don't see why unmounting the pulley wheels would be needed.

So which is it, "bolt and washer" refers to lift cable anchor points, or "bolt and washer" refers to the pulley axles?

Thanks for helping me get off this sticking point...

Does anyone know what types of seals are needed for the hydraulic cylinder? I have a 1987 funlite with a leaking cylinder. I have a friend who works on hydraulics and has tools to fix it. All he need is a seal kit to to the job.