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06-16-2013, 09:32 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 4
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Electrical Issue
I recently bought a Hi Lo from someone that did not want it any longer- was told that is needed some work but it was still in decent condition. When I got it home it went right up with no problems. The interior was a bit dirty but was easily cleaned, but what can you expect for next to nothing that I pain for it. the main power cord had been run over by a lawn mower, so I replaced the end with a new 30 A plug. After I plugged it in all it will do is hum, at the fuse box. I do have two lights that turn on, one in the front bunk area and the other in the bathroom over the tub. none of the outlets work. I did check all the other bulbs in the other lights and they work but I am not getting any power to them. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. Anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong? I am totally new to the Hi Lo camper experience, and so far I love it, just want to get it all working and get to camping.
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06-16-2013, 09:54 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Berwick. Pa
Posts: 347
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Please tell me you are plugging into 120 volts and not 240 volts. What is humming the converter or the panel box or something else?
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Cheers
Garyk52
DW Judy
96 24' Hi-Lo Funchaser, (99 Aliner Sofabed Sold 6/9/18)
06 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access Cab 4X4 36,000 miles and counting
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06-17-2013, 07:03 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 4
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Electrical Issue
I am running an extension cord from the garage to the camper, regular household electricity- isin't that 110. It is not 220 that is for sure- the humming is coming from the breaker box
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06-17-2013, 07:14 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 180
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Not sure if it will help but when I connect my trailer to my house power, there is a humming noise that is generated by the converter. Not sure if that is what you are referring to for the humming noise? Also there should be a main switch usually located near the door that needs to be in the upper position for you interior 12v items to work.
If possible can you locate the trailer model number and post this as it will help others in providing some suggestions.
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PappaP
Former Owner of a 1999 Classic HiLo Model 29B
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06-17-2013, 08:00 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ohio North Coast
Posts: 850
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What size extension cord are you running to the trailer. If it is a regular household type cord, it is only 14 - 16 gauge wire. Not enough to handle the draw from the camper. You should use the 30 amp cord that came with the trailer and plug into a 30 amp plug. You could use a "cheater" (30 amp female to 15 amp male electrical adapter) if you only have regular 15 amp plugs in your garage. I would not run the a/c with this setup, but it would handle the other electrical for the camper for testing purposes only. If this info is wrong, someone will correct the info I gave you. That is the great thing about this forum. Everybody has everybody's back.
Bob
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2014 FR Heritage Glen 282RK
2013 F250 HD 6.7L Diesel
Formerly Owned: 1995 22D Fun Chaser & 2901L Classic
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06-17-2013, 08:04 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 4
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Electrical Issue
no the humming is pretty significant, and it comes from the breaker box, as far as the model number I will have to check on that, I know it is a fun lite Hi Lo 1990
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06-17-2013, 08:28 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 551
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Sgt. Schultz: I know nothing
about these things, but I do know that (larger) transformers can hummmm. Is there one under there somewhere for whatever purpose?
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06-17-2013, 10:11 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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There can be a hum from the transformer in the 12 volt converter/charger. The plates can sometimes be loose and allowed to vibrate when the current passes through the windings. The converter is usually housed with the breaker and fuse panels.
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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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06-18-2013, 07:07 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 4
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electrical issue
gonna give retiredcampers suggestion a go, it makes sense that I need a larger drop cord to bring the current to the camper will let ya all know how that goes
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06-18-2013, 09:09 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Coast of SC
Posts: 207
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cord
Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredcamper47
What size extension cord are you running to the trailer. If it is a regular household type cord, it is only 14 - 16 gauge wire. Not enough to handle the draw from the camper. You should use the 30 amp cord that came with the trailer and plug into a 30 amp plug. You could use a "cheater" (30 amp female to 15 amp male electrical adapter) if you only have regular 15 amp plugs in your garage. I would not run the a/c with this setup, but it would handle the other electrical for the camper for testing purposes only. If this info is wrong, someone will correct the info I gave you. That is the great thing about this forum. Everybody has everybody's back.
Bob
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I agree with Bob. He's right get the proper rated cord. They can be pricy but on this you cannot cut cost.
God Bless
Papa
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06-18-2013, 09:30 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 551
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NOT trying to be argumentative
But unless everything in his camper is turned on (max current draw) then I don't believe a heavier cord would correct this humming noise.
My assumption is that unless this is tripping the house breaker when plugged up then his rewired ac plug is acceptable (although he may have reversed the hot and common leads). I'm unsure of campers color codes for wiring. I guess in theory (Speculation) if this is the case it may cause a hum by running current backwards through an item.
That's where I would start, check where the hot line should be and ensure that's what you've re-wired. That's also when the problem commenced so a good place to start.
Next, what I would do is turn everything OFF, all appliances AND breakers; then see if the hum persists when plugged up. If so then focus on what is still getting power.
If no hum then slowly add breakers, then appliances. Whichever one creates the hum needs looking into.
YES, a proper cord is what he should ultimately seek (me too), but my limited camper experience shows that it can be safely done (for a limited time) with less than a 30A cord.
YMMV.
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06-18-2013, 09:46 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 551
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Another thought
About five years ago I lived in a 60+ year old riverside house. About 1/4 of the outlets were wired backwards. If this is the case - even wiring your plug properly, you'll have the current flowing backwards. I suspect the owners did this after self repairing Hurricane Katrina damage.
I discovered this when lightning destroyed some of my "protected" stereo equipment. Turns out my cheap protective device only protected the hot line, which in my case turned out to be the return line as my hot line was electrically on the return side - which was not protected, resulting in damage.
Moral of this: you can't trust anything (excluding death and taxes).
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06-18-2013, 03:42 PM
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#13
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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That is when you need one of the plugin receptacle testers. They are only a few bucks. Get the one with the button for checking GFCI outlets.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-50957-Insta...ef=pd_sim_hi_2
__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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06-18-2013, 04:07 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 551
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I had one but didn't think to use it until after this event.
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06-19-2013, 03:34 PM
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#15
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichR
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I should have added that it is a good thing to test the pedestal outlets before plugging in at campgrounds.
__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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06-19-2013, 04:28 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 551
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Are they problematic?
I would have assumed they were installed/checked out by electricians.
I guess, just like my old riverhouse, someone may have tried save a few dollars and did some (shoody) work of there own after the original install.
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06-25-2013, 08:08 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 551
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So...
Noisy folks want to know, did you resolve this humming issue?
__________________
2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle
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06-25-2013, 11:55 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: near Tampa, Fla
Posts: 277
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Humming
Well I have to agree with several things.
1st Rich is correct in pointing out the testers. Always have one and always check your outlets with one of these. On your hilo and your house.
2nd Using the correct size cord or wire is one of the best things that you can do to stop trouble from happening.
3rd Transformer humming is very common. As was stated transformer plates do work their way apart and then hum.
4th if you really feel that the hum is in the circuit box then Good Luck on that one. If you know what you are doing (power off, remove cord wire whatever it takes) check that all wires are tight and then pull circuit breakers off one at a time and put it back in before going to the next one. You are checking to make sure that they are in good and tight. Only do this if you know what you are doing and power is OFF.
Later Tim owner 18ft 1969 hilo
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06-26-2013, 08:18 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 551
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It only hertz a little bit
so go ahead.....
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2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle
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06-26-2013, 12:16 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: near Tampa, Fla
Posts: 277
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Zap back at you
Remember the part where I said make sure the power is off or disconnected.
Really this is a zap free zone.
Later Tim
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