Electrical issues

Well, I find the fuse block under the sink in the bathroom. All the fuses were good but that's not saying anything due to the guy before good of changed them out to no avail. Look at the picture. They look discolored at the connection like they got moisture to them. Also the ones I the far left that I've already pulled out did look like they tranfered some flash burn to the plastic. I know I need to start at the source and work my way to the fuse box first to possible not fix something that will just get re-fried. But if I do need to replace this fuse block is it much of problem? I need to test the converter but I'm not very good with a meter.

It appears, to me, that there is one single input to the fuse block and that is the single large gauge red wire that attaches to the right side in the upper picture. If you put your multimeter in the DC volts range (possibly on a 20V setting, since you're looking for 12V), and then probe the attachment screw for that wire with the positive probe while the negative probe is connected to a ground (you may need to run a jumper wire to the negative terminal of the battery for that) you SHOULD read 12+ volts there. If not, and if you don't get 12+V probing anywhere else on that block, your problem is in the feed to the block.

I don't really think the discoloration is significant, unless the electrical connections are "rusty", which would mean they need cleaning. You can always clean anything that is discolored though.

I don't have a clue what that silver 5-position binding strip on the right (bottom in the second picture) is for.

Honestly, though, the fuse holder itself looks fine to me. I think there's a supply problem, possibly a poor connection at the other end of that large red wire. I suspect it originates at one of the two 30A circuit breakers in your battery box.

Do you know how to test a wire for continuity?

- Jack

The 5 lug connector at the bottom looks to be a ground terminal. I had to replace one on a pop-up I had.

but nothing is grounded to it. Maybe Motorpig can use it for the ground for checking voltage that jack was referring to.

hilltool said:

but nothing is grounded to it. Maybe Motorpig can use it for the ground for checking voltage that jack was referring to.

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I think that grounding bus is just excess baggage. There doesn't appear to be any form of grounding wire connected to it and would have no function.

RichR said:

I think that grounding bus is just excess baggage. There doesn't appear to be any form of grounding wire connected to it and would have no function.

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I agree with Rich

garyk52 said:

I agree with Rich

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Me too!

- Jack

Ok guys. My ego can handle one correction, even two, Three in a row is a bit rough. Im going to do self affirmations now.

Thanks again ya'll. I took off work today to work on camper and the weather man missed it. Its been raining all day so hard to really get out there and crawl up under the camper to see where what wires are going where. I still haven't got 12v feed to my 12v block yet. I did test the charger and battery which is showing 13v. at the circuit breaker near the battery. What confuses me is that looking at the fuse block it is showing a red wire feeding it. However the only red wire I can find anywhere thats that size is the one coming from the charger going to the circuit breaker near the battery. Shouldn't there be another then running from the same point going back to the 12v. block. Look at the posted pictures. The only wire feeding back to the camper from the circuit breaker is a black one (which I don't know where it goes yet.

For testing purposes, could I disconnect the 12v block feed wire and run another one from the battery compartment where I know I'm getting 13 volts and tie into the block with it? Just to narrow my issues down?

hilltool said:

Ok guys. My ego can handle one correction, even two, Three in a row is a bit rough. Im going to do self affirmations now.

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Everybody gets a turn in the barrel now and then.

I believe the white wire coming off the converter is the ground wire and it should connect to the ground bus under the floor. The other end of the ground bus comes through the back of the battery compartment where the two white wires are connected.

I noticed that there is only one terminal on the breaker on the right. There should be wires to both. I would say that the red wire coming from the other breaker should be on the unused terminal. As it is the breaker is serving no function other than being a common terminal. The breaker is there for a good reason. Test across the breaker to see if it is good.

motorpig2342 said:

For testing purposes, could I disconnect the 12v block feed wire and run another one from the battery compartment where I know I'm getting 13 volts and tie into the block with it? Just to narrow my issues down?

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Yes, you certainly could. If you decide to simply leave it in place, which might not be a bad idea if you can't find the problem, I'd use 10 gauge wire.

I think the white wire from your converter is the ground wire too, just like you and Rich are thinking.

Referring to my wiring diagram, I suspect the large gauge (#10) black wire to the CB in the battery compartment is the +12V battery charging wire from the tow vehicle trailer connector. But, it might be the +12V feed to the hitch lift motor. Mine has two 10 gauge black wires to the left circuit breaker and they serve those purposes.

Like Rich, I think the red feed into the fuse block should come from the other post of right hand circuit breaker in the battery compartment. I THINK it should do that by way of the Master Switch that overrides the Up/Down switch.

- Jack

RichR said:

I noticed that there is only one terminal on the breaker on the right. There should be wires to both. I would say that the red wire coming from the other breaker should be on the unused terminal. As it is the breaker is serving no function other than being a common terminal. The breaker is there for a good reason. Test across the breaker to see if it is good.

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I tested both sides and am showing 13.35 volts on each. I will say this... the person that had it before me rewired the lift motor switches and used toggle switches in the battery compartment. I'm suspecting that the lift motor was originally connected to the other side of the Circuit? Or maybe not.

JackandJanet said:

Like Rich, I think the red feed into the fuse block should come from the other post of right hand circuit breaker in the battery compartment. I THINK it should do that by way of the Master Switch that overrides the Up/Down switch. - Jack

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Thats does make since.



Man, I'm getting lost brainstorming all this, lol. If thats the case then how should I rewire my Lift motor the proper way? Sorry for all the questions. makes it hard not ever knowing how it was originally.

motorpig2342 said:

I tested both sides and am showing 13.35 volts on each. I will say this... the person that had it before me rewired the lift motor and used toggle switches in the battery compartment. I'm suspecting that the lift motor was originally connected to the other side of the Circuit.

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So, the former owner removed the Master Switch. That's not good. It keeps the top from being lowered if anyone is inside. And it helps to keep power from being delivered to anything but the refrigerator while you are traveling. Which will keep the hot water and water pump off, for instance.

I like your idea of restoring the original wiring plan.

Hang on, let me find the wiring diagram.

- Jack

OK, this should help. http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f51/hi-lo-2306-primary-wiring-116/
The one that's most useful to you would be the second one that shows the two Circuit Breakers.

I found my trailer was a bit different than what that shows (regarding the connections to those circuit breakers), but the differences are fairly minor and I think what it shows will work fine.

I'll study it a bit more and let you know if I see any problems.

Edit: OK, I've looked, and I don't see why that diagram would not work as well as what I have in my trailer.

You should try to trace your red fuse box supply wire and find out what's at the other end. It SHOULD have gone to the three position Master Switch so that power is received from the battery if the switch is in the "up" (interior devices) position. That switch would also have a second #10 red wire that goes back to the second circuit breaker. Finally, that switch feeds, through an inline fuse, the Up/Down switch when the switch is in the "down" (top movement) position. If the switch is in the center "neutral" position, it disables battery power to everything.

But, the refrigerator can always receive 12V power through a blue wire that is also attached to the right CB.

I hope I'm not confusing you - it's hard to discuss a wiring diagram in words.

- Jack

JackandJanet said:

So, the former owner removed the Master Switch. That's not good. It keeps the top from being lowered if anyone is inside. And it helps to keep power from being delivered to anything but the refrigerator while you are traveling. Which will keep the hot water and water pump off, for instance.

I like your idea of restoring the original wiring plan.

Hang on, let me find the wiring diagram.

- Jack

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I guess this is the mater switch you are talking about?

Hmm, maybe I should see where that red wire is going. Maybe thats the one that goes to the 12v block. That would make since ya'll talking about it shutting off power to certain things when switched off. If not its at least part of the missing link.

motorpig2342 said:

I guess this is the mater switch you are talking about?

Hmm, maybe I should see where that red wire is going. Maybe thats the one that goes to the 12v block. That would make since ya'll talking about it shutting off power to certain things when switched off. If not its at least part of the missing link.

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Well, that's where the Master Switch and the Lift Switch are supposed to be. The lift switch in my trailer is white and is spring loaded to the center (neutral) position. The Master Switch is black and has three positions - Up (interior), Middle (travel) and Down (Lift System activated). It will stay in any of those three positions.

Yes, DO trace that red wire! And, see my post just before your last one.

- Jack

JackandJanet said:

Well, that's where the Master Switch and the Lift Switch are supposed to be. The lift switch in my trailer is white and is spring loaded to the center (neutral) position. The Master Switch is black and has three positions - Up (interior), Middle (travel) and Down (Lift System activated). It will stay in any of those three positions.

Yes, DO trace that red wire! And, see my post just before your last one.

- Jack

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THATS IT! Finally... That is the wire he cut and and just let hang under the camper. I Did a continuity test and its the same wire that supplies power to the 12v Block. Thank yall so much. Thats one major step in the right direction. Thanks Again!!!