Hello all,

Have a 1908 Towlite that just started not lowering without playing with the switch several times. And yes, I did pull the lock cable as I hit the switch.

Turns out the Electric relief valve was loose. I looked at the Monarch pump and followed the yellow wire to the switch. The valve is bolted to the pump so I used a cresent wrench to tighten it.

This site pointed me to the electric valve which was very helpful.

Hope this helps somebody in the forum.

Thanks
Raysnuffer

__________________
1908T bought Sept 2011
2005 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4 Liter
2 Shi Tsu's Eddie and Binky and Muffin the Yorkie

That can be valuable information for us to keep in mind.

Great news! I love stories with happy endings!!

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Thanks Richr,

I was ecstatic that it worked....I was envisioning hundreds of dollars fixing the pump

__________________
1908T bought Sept 2011
2005 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4 Liter
2 Shi Tsu's Eddie and Binky and Muffin the Yorkie

Just out of curiosity... how much is it to rebuild one of these pumps? It's just a "simple" pump after all and was probably designed/built with "off the shelf" parts... Pumps to build pressure and a valve to release that pressure.... not as complicated as a hydraulic setup using pressure in both directions...

I think someone posted about that not too long ago. Maybe a search will get you there or even maybe the poster will step up and fill you in here.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Yup 80 bucks - A quite a bit away from "a couple hundred"... Like I figured, these aren't that complicated a pump, after all, it only makes pressure one way.

Thanks David C for the price to rebuild pump. Just for the future, is that rebuild a do it yourselfer or is that the price having it done by a pro ?? I would not be able to do it myself and RV places here charge 90.00 an hour. I suspect they would not take on the project for less than 3 hours which is a long way from 80.00.


I found the pump on Ebay for 349.00 plus shipping for those that may need a new one.

Monarch Hydraulic Pump 6 Qt Reservoir 12 Volt | eBay

Ray

__________________
1908T bought Sept 2011
2005 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4 Liter
2 Shi Tsu's Eddie and Binky and Muffin the Yorkie

It was from this thread http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f22/...efurbish-2248/

And an RV place is the last place you should take it, they most likely would just "shop" it out to a hydraulic shop... You would simply take it to a hydraulic shop, but as stated in the thread, he was able to find a shop that was "familiar" with the pump used... not that it's necessary, any shop should be able to rebuild it, but it would be nice to find one that knew what they were...

An RV shop is not your only source just because it's an RV...

I believe the $80 was to have the cylinder repaired, if I read it correctly. The pumps are similar to snow plow lift pumps, I would imagine that hydraulic shops would work on those.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

I went thru a removal, repair, and re-installation of the hydraulic cylinder about a year ago. Here is what I learned.

1. The Hydraulic Cylinder is a "plain Jane" type used on all kinds of equipment. Just look at any front end loader, garbage truck, fork lift etc.

2. It is high pressure and you need the right parts. No junk.

3. Any auto repair shop, hydraulic equipment shop, or hydraulic equipment shop can handle. There are seals, wipers, etc involved.

4. You will pay the going shop rate, say $60 to $80 per hour. One or two hours. I had to have some lathe work done on a bent shaft so I spent about $ 150.

5. Removal and re-install not too bad, just poor working conditions under the trailer. It is just like working on a auto starter. It is buried and hard to get at.

5. CAUTION: High pressure involved, Coul be thousand psi so do it right.

Thanks for the info Edward. When you took out and put it back, did you have to bleed the hoses to get the air out and refill the tank or were you able to plug the the hose as you removed the pump to prevent much fluid from draining out ???

Thanks
Ray

__________________
1908T bought Sept 2011
2005 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4 Liter
2 Shi Tsu's Eddie and Binky and Muffin the Yorkie

The system on both of mine is self bleeding, just fill tank in down position to proper level and run up an down a couple times, check fill level again in down position and you are good to go.

__________________
Rich
------------------------------------
(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'

Right ON! Capped the hoses on removal. On installation just fill reservoir, cycle a few times and it self bleeds itself.

If I remember correctly, a replacement hydraulic pump is available through Northern Tool.

__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Thanks guys for the "self bleeding" info on the lift pump... It almost makes me want to try it... (hopefully not soon)

And good info from RCREYES about another source for the pump if we need a new one. Its good to know that whatever parts we Hilo'ers need can still be bought.

Ray

__________________
1908T bought Sept 2011
2005 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4 Liter
2 Shi Tsu's Eddie and Binky and Muffin the Yorkie