Just picked up our "new" Hi Lo and so far, love it. Planning on going to Ohio this summer from Naples, Fl and then to California this winter. Have been reading a lot of the maintenance items on the forum and have got a lot accomplished. Hope to post some helpful tips when I really get going. Has anyone tried using Polyurethane caulk for the tops and windows. I have had really good luck with it on other items, never gets hard and stays flexible and acts like an adhesive. Also plan to make solar panels and led lights for the inside of the trailer, maybe sell a few solar panels to make some gas money. lol
Happy Camping
Bob

Welcome aboard, Bob. Poke around the site and you'll find all sorts of helpful tips. Any questions you may have will be answered. There are a lot of experienced owners here. If you do a search, there are at least six posts on polyurethane. I hope one of them may answer your question.

Ruben

__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Hey - Bienvenidos, Bob!

You're going to love it. Keep us updated on how it's going - and post a few pics of the new rig. We're all anxious to see it.

Good to hear you have gotten alot of good guidance/maintenance information from the forum.. Good to have another classic owner on board. you will find the classic model to be very sturdy and of good quality. Having solar panels is a great thing to have and also LED lights. Everything that breaks on a HiLo is fixible. I have a 90 HiLo classic. Take care Sam.

Welcome aboard, you will love it.

Welcome Aboard from southwestern PA!

__________________
2016 Toyota tacoma TRD sport
Classic 2693 RD
Luke 1:49

Welcome to the Hi-lo forum, I'm sure you'll enjoy your "new" trailer. I'm hooked, I've had mine for about 7 years and enjoy every time we can take it out.
The only brand of polyurethane caulk I use is Sikaflex 1a, it comes in different colors including white or tan and holds up very well to UV rays. I've used other brands including DAP and had to redo the caulk joint within a year.

__________________
Les & Patricia
2006 22ft towlite (replaces 97 21TL)
2006 Toyota tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L V-6 quad cab
w/ 98 chevy Powervision towing mirrors
2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 v8 (replaces Toyota)
2 Hobie mirage pedal drive kayaks

Hey Les - where do you find this caulk? Online? Big Orange box stores?

Check here:
Find A Distributor

__________________
2016 Toyota tacoma TRD sport
Classic 2693 RD
Luke 1:49

I get Sikaflex 1a at a local high end building supply company( not the big orange store). For the best price on the internet, look at Amazon.com.

__________________
Les & Patricia
2006 22ft towlite (replaces 97 21TL)
2006 Toyota tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L V-6 quad cab
w/ 98 chevy Powervision towing mirrors
2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 v8 (replaces Toyota)
2 Hobie mirage pedal drive kayaks

Thanks for the welcome and the info on the Silkaflex. I went throught the procedure of leveling the upper half yesterday with pretty good success. I made 2X4 Ts with on edge ways to the other which put the edge along the trailer and allowed me to use masking tape to hold them in place till I let it down. Had to adjust the cables about an inch to get the seal to mate, I think this has never been done on the trailer before. After getting everything level, I noticed that where the cables are fastened to the top in the back in the bedroom, the cable has deformed the aluminum and is putting a lot of pressure on the wall. I couldn't see where anything was topping out or hitting. It is bad enough on the left side that the trim was hooved up, it looked like it has been this way for a long time and the trim is even glued down along with the screws. This trim is very thin, about 3/16s. I bought some oak 1x3s and ripped them to replace the thin trim to give the area where the pulley is mounted more support. I was wondering if anyone else has seen this problem. The right side was not near as bad but I did the same thing there. After all the leveling, the very end corners still do not come up far enough to seal, like the ends of the trailer are sagging, not bad, but just enough to see a small gap. I'll try to get some pictures posted today.
Thanks, Bob

I have noticed that the manufacturer didn't always keep the bottom of the walls on the top straight, So getting it perfect all the way round isn't possible. I try to get the lowest part touching the seal, this does cause the seal to be high in some places. Just don't go to high that there is a pulley problem or you will break the cable. The seal was put on 3/4 of an inch low for about 20 inches, right behind the door on my 2209, no way to make the seal touch in that area.

Thanks PopRichie, that takes a load off my mind. I thought something had torque the upper body. I found the Sikaflex at Home Depot, believe it or not for a little under $6. I think I'll back off on the leveling of the rear to take a little strain off those pulleys, as they are pretty close to being topped out. Attached are a few pictures, I should have taken some befores while I had it apart. The picture with the notch in the trim is the right side. Sorry about the quality.
Bob

Attached Images

	2011-05-13 18.18.55.jpg (37.2 KB, 40 views)
	2011-05-21 10.31.07.jpg (35.4 KB, 41 views)
	2011-05-21 10.31.40.jpg (67.2 KB, 44 views)
	2011-05-21 10.35.24.jpg (66.9 KB, 42 views)

Your inside pics look like you are to high with the top, typically the top trim board is about 1/2 or a little more below the bottom trim board at the cables. It looks like you are dangerously close to breaking something. They are not meant to match. If you don't have a manual look at some in the Reference Library. The seal is adjusted the same in all years.

Remember that trim is 3/4 and the old trim was 3/16, I did let it down a little since the pictures though.

Do you know where I can get a manual for the entertainment system, Farenheit DVD 29T? I've looked online everywhere and so far no good. I also had trouble putting on the WD hitch. It is a Reese 12000/1200 SC and the brackets interfere with the brace in the tongue so that I can't get the brackets forward enough resulting in the trunnion bars catching the brake pads on sharp turns. I was thinking of having the brace removed and a new one installed further back to allow the brackets to be mounted the proper distance back from the ball. Any thoughts or experience?
Thanks, Bob

There has been much debate on hitches, Read what the manufactures recommend, the second PDF is for Reese hitches.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f63/...wd-hitch-1077/

We also have a 2002 29ft classic. We love it, just got back a couple of weeks ago from Butler Ohio took it over to J & R for a few repairs and also put elec stabalizer jacks. They did a great job and are super nice guys. It was a long trip from South Louisiana but had a great time. Hope you enjoy yours.

Bob, moving the bracket is probably the only way for you to use that hitch.

I found the Sikaflex in the concrete aisle not the caulking aisle for $5.46. They had 5 different kinds and two different colors, white and limestone, in the sealant.