Hi

For reasons that I don't understand, my release cable to the safety bar (the one which must be released to lower top) has a lot of resistance most of time, even though I am following directions to raise and pull simultaneously. As best I can tell, the friction seems to be in the first few inches of it--maybe where it makes a 90 degree turn from the cable inside trailer to just underneath where cable is housed in plastic tubing for several feet until it gets fairly close to the safety bar.

More data: If some one pushes the switch to raise trailer, after safety bar is lock, I can easily release safety bar manually while under the trailer. There has to be a better way!

Do some one have any ideas?

Has any one had this problem? Fix recommendations? Is this mechanism trouble free for most of you. . . I have not seen problem discussed since I joined this great group.

More Date: Prior owners had some trouble tripping it for us when showing us the rig. The problem has slowly become worse. This trailer only 2 years old, and they only used it 2 times they said, and I believe them, as there were not signs of wear or usage. Looked new, so be bought it.

Thanks,

Jim Larson
jimdehn@bellsouth.net

This is my second HI-LO and I never had this problem. The 90 degree turn doesn't sound right, I still have both trailers, will check the routing tomorrow and post back.

Just checked the cable routing and it does make a 90 degree turn where it goes through the floor. Don't know how much of a DIY person you are but, this shouldn't be to hard to fix. I would say remove the screws that hold the tube to the floor and see if that frees it up. The hole in the floor may be rough and the cable is dragging to much. The cable can't be removed without cutting the crimped on cable clamp off on one of the ends. If necessary, I would cut the top one off. This is just my opinion and what ever you do is at your own risk.

Im going to ask that you restate the problem, as I read your post I cannot figure out for SURE, what is the problem you are describing.

IF you are honestly reading instructions out of context, and think you have to make the switch move at the same time you move the cable, I bet you are miss timing. You Pull the cable, then move the switch. What the instructions are trying to say is don't bother trying to run the switch if you arent pulling on the safety release cable the whole time. you can pull the safety then push the down switch, but importantly the release had to be pulled anytime you run the switch, so Simultaneously really might be misleading if taken in the wrong context.

Are you saying you have to at least attempt to raise the roof, before you can release the saftey? This is normal, at least a little bit IN MY OPINION, but mines almost 16 years old. I believe after you pump up, the cylinder can creep ever so slightly which engages the brake/safety and most of the time I have to go up (or at least try to) then pull the safety cable to go down, almost never can just pull and drop top down.

Or are you only saying that the release cable seems too hard all the time, even say when roof is down?

__________________
From Kansas: 29ft '95 5th, converted to toybox in rear, by Hilo. Pics soon, Some Here.

Thanks. I will me more clear hopefully.

I can't pull it at all, except as I raise the top while at the same time pulling firmly on cable. Even then, some times it does not release, even when repeating this simultaneous process..

If I have some one else raise it, I can go under trailer--just as they raise it, I can easily push bar to release (not before they raise it,however). My thinking is too much friction in the first few inches of cable mechanism starting with the cable loop at the door near the raising switch, where shortly it makes a 90 degee turn under the trailer and then another gradual 90 degree turn moving aft through the plastic tube.

How much, one the bar is in place, does you top raise? I am guessing mine moves about 0.5 inches. Have not measured; could be only3/8th of an inch.

Thanks for you help in advance!

Jim Larson

Sometimes I only hear the pump struggle a little and then I can pull the cable, I'm betting the cylinder moves hardly at all , but when the trailer is completely down, the cable is easy pull... (I checkd this again last night...).

So it could be cable but I bet the release mechanism itself to be the problem, as again I bet debris or slight rust could be involved. I have yet to crawl under to see how the safety actually works. I have hit the button down and nothing moved and the motor isnt involved, if you dont release the safety by pulling cable, yet I caught myself rather quickly, maybe previous owners didnt and as such something is tweaked under there? I wont be home all weekend, but next week I feel I hope I will look around on that, see what all I see, maybe it will be obvious what can happen if you try to go down without releasing, maybe? Another issue I could see it letting the top down and losing grip on cable for some reason, which could bend something I suppose?

Sorry I wasnt at much help, but the Guys at J&R Repairs are VERY nice guys and might seen/heard of this issue before (former factory repair shop, that now is our main source for repairs and part now that HI-Lo closed the doors.)

If I were you I'd not hesitate to call them, well worth the long distance call!

__________________
From Kansas: 29ft '95 5th, converted to toybox in rear, by Hilo. Pics soon, Some Here.

If you can push the lock bar up when someone else pushes the raise button, then it has to be the cable, I am very familiar with the safety lock bar. The cable just lifts one end up so as not to stop the piston ram from returning. I repaired the bar on the 95 T as it was to short and would let the top drop down over and inch. Did you try removing the screws that hold the cable tube to the floor? The installer might have got a screw to close to the cable and pinched it.Over the years I have seen many things that were not properly assembled, so a missed placed screw is nothing.

I have a 1702T, 2001, and here is how my safety bar works. I recently removed, replaced, and repaired the cylinder, safety bar, and associated systems.

Here are some things to consider:

1. The safety bar drops into place when the top is raised. It drops by gravity and prevents the cylinder from accidently retracting and the top falling.

2. The safety bar drops into place as the top is raised to the upper position or in the last 1/2" or 3/8" of travel. You can hear a distinct " clank " as it falls into place. You then lower the top and the pulley head contacts the safety bar, effectively jamming the safety bar in position. The top is now up and fixed in position.

3. When the safety bar is engaged or " Jammed " you cannot pull the cable . The safety bar is pinned in place. Cable won't move at all.

4. To lower the top, you must raise it about 1/2" or 3/8" or to the limit of the raised travel. You then pull the cable which raises the safety bar out of the " jammed " position. Then while still pulling the cable to keep the safety bar up and released, you can then lower the top all the way.

5. The safety bar only comes into play in the last 1/2" or 3/8" of travel at the top, Otherwise it just hangs there above the pulley head..

Hope this is helpful.

Thanks every one! I learned a lot from your information and suggestions?

problem solved with a lot of silicone--to the point of holding up the end of the tube under trailer so entire cable and tube lubercated. I also lubricated the safety bar near the cable while I was at it, but doubt that was the issue.

My top maybe raises a quarter of less of an inch. However, now it very easy to release the safety bar.