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08-11-2013, 12:35 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Kansas
Posts: 10
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New to me 17' 1975 Hi-Lo
So I picked it up yesterday and have a few questions.
1. There is no city water hook-up, is there an easy way to add one?
2. I have found that there is no grey/black holding tanks, all the waste water and toilet stuff pipes into a sewer type hook-up. Is this factory or did it used to have tanks and someone change it at some time?
3. There was never an A/C unit installed and I want to put one in. I have the original manual that says how to do so but, the width of the smallest unit i can find is 2" wider than what the manual calls for me to cut out above the rear window. Have any of you installed a window unit to the back before and did you have to cut more than what the book showed to?
4. The top raises just fine but, I can't use the switch to lower. The previous owner told me to lower the top half I had to pull the release cable and open the release valve on the pump. I tried going through the manual to trouble shoot the issue but I can't seem to figure it out. Any help on the issue would be appreciated.
5. While I was driving the hour trip back home I noticed that when people speeding by the air they were pushing seemed to make the camper sway a bit which in return caused to to have to correct the steering to get it to settle down. I wouldn't have figured I would need sway bars for this little/light of a camper. What do you guys suggest?
This is my first ever HI-LO and camper all together so almost everything having to do with towing/ HI-LO is new to me.
Any help on the above would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
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08-11-2013, 08:59 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 551
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I can't answer most of your questions
but those that can will first need to know specifically what camper model you have.
My other question (relating to sway) is what are you using to tow it with? You may need a larger/heavier tow vehicle. Q: were ALL tires properly pressured?
Final thought, its nice to have a geographic location with your public profile, you know, so we can stalk you better.
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__________________
2014 Ford F250 6.7 PS
formerly a HiLo TD2401
now an 08 Jayco Eagle
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08-11-2013, 10:19 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Kansas
Posts: 10
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Well from what I can tell there is no model number it's just a 1975 17'. In the manual I have that is what it lists, (1975) which is the 17' model.
The tow vehicle is a 97 land cruiser which is rated for 5k, it was rated this way due to the motor not being able to efficiently pull more at highway speeds from what I have read. I did not have any sag in my rear end, I have heavy springs and the tongue weight on the trailer according to the manual is like 300lb with a total trailer weight of 2400 with a payload capacity of 7xxlb. The trailer was also level while towing.
As far as my location, Kansas. That is all you get.
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08-11-2013, 10:22 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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There should be black and gray tanks, I don't believe they were options. Perhaps the previous owner had it set in a permanent site and didn't want to deal with tanks. Your sway may be from the tongue weight being too light, maybe loading the trailer with weight forward will help, I assume you are using a weight distribution hitch which helps.
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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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08-11-2013, 10:44 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: near Tampa, Fla
Posts: 277
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Hi
kansaslx
Welcome to the site. Good Luck with everything.
Check out the manuals area and see if there is a 1975 manual and go from there.
Later Tim
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08-12-2013, 12:17 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,224
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Welcome to the forum
kansaslx, Just wanted to send you a welcome to the forum. Our members are very good answering questions and giving helpful advice.
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08-12-2013, 07:45 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Kansas
Posts: 10
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Thank you for the welcome!. I figured I should have those tanks but, I wasn't positive. Would be nice to have some though, maybe ill fab some up out of aluminum when I get a chance. I also have seen those portable tanks but, don't really like the idea of having to wheel them around after camping.
I have a distributing ball, ill have to see if I can't figure out to get more weight on the tongue.
As far as the manual goes, as stated in my previous posts, I have the original manual and all paperwork that came with the trailer in 1975. The man I bought it from received it from his moms significant other who bought it new in 75.
If anyone has any insite to my other questions I'm all ears. I can't find any info anywhere on the original window ac unit, nor find a current unit that meets the dimension specs for the install sheet.
Thanks!!
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08-12-2013, 09:09 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: near Tampa, Fla
Posts: 277
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thoughts
on number 5 it also might be your speed.
#4 the release valve is electrically operated by pushing the raise switch the other way. If you have a meter or a light then check to see if you are getting power to the valve (mounted on top of the pump). If you have power then I've read that the valve sometimes needs to replaced.
#3 I have a rear window ac unit in our hilo. Think that it was added after it came from hilo. Ours is a 1969 hilo. Can take pics if requested.
Later Tim
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08-12-2013, 09:37 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Kansas
Posts: 10
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Tim, I was going about 70. The speed limit was 75 and I decided to go about 70.
On the valve/ switch I have no light. I have figured it out for now I think, I'll have to hope so anyways. I messed with the manual release knob on the pump a bit and it seems to be working fine now.
On your ac unit, pictures and a brand with dimensions would be great. I can't find a unit anywhere that is less than 16" wide and in my manual it says to cut a hole 14" wide and 12" tall. I'm just not sure if I can cut wider than what the manual says. If I knew I could without hitting a support then I could get a unit that is just a touch wider... Thanks in advance.
Brian
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08-12-2013, 10:01 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Quakertown, PA
Posts: 1,074
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In case you don't know trailer tires are only rated at a max of 65 MPG. Also I think your trailer is heavier than 2400 lbs. The older trailers were made for putting an AC in the rear. Newer ones have roof top units. From your description your trailer doesn't sound like a 95. Can you post a picture?
__________________
Rich
------------------------------------
(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'
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08-12-2013, 12:30 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Upper left corner
Posts: 531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kansaslx
5. While I was driving the hour trip back home I noticed that when people speeding by the air they were pushing seemed to make the camper sway a bit which in return caused to to have to correct the steering to get it to settle down. I wouldn't have figured I would need sway bars for this little/light of a camper. What do you guys suggest?
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As somebody already suggested, make sure items loaded in the trailer are loaded forward of the axle, if possible. Also, if the propane tanks are on the tongue, fill them.
Another contributor to sway is the wheelbase of the tow vehicle (TV). The shorter the wheelbase, the more prone to sway. This is why it's often a good idea to add a sway control device when towing with a smaller SUV.
You mentioned, "sway bars." Don't confuse load distributing bars/hitches with sway control devices. They are different things. A load or weight distributing hitch works to distribute the hitch weight between the two TV axles. By doing this it helps maintain the TV level. A properly adjusted load distributing hitch will tend to decrease sway, but it may not eliminate it.
A sway control device will dampen the oscillations that occur and/or try to realign the TV and trailer in a straight line. The simple devices are passive in nature and just dampen oscillations. They tend to rely on friction to do this. The more sophisticated devices are active in nature. They apply a centering force to align the TV and trailer. Most of the active devices are built into the load distributing hitch.
I highly recommend that you consider a load distributing hitch. This alone may solve the issue. If not, a friction type sway control device should be added.
Keep in mind that you should not mask instability with external devices. You should still load the trailer to attain 10-15% of its total weight on the tongue.
__________________
Raul
2408T
2010 Nissan Frontier, 4x4, Crew Cab
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08-12-2013, 02:57 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: near Tampa, Fla
Posts: 277
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ac
Brian
On our 1969 hilo there were windows in the back. Someone removed a window and installed the ac unit.
Do you have windows?
Later Tim
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08-12-2013, 03:22 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Kansas
Posts: 10
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I believe I have a load distributing hitch, I can raise and lower the ball 8" either up or down. It is a 14000lb load capacity hitch. As for the propane tanks, one was full and the other was half. The camper was dry (no water) and nothing inside. The camper was level as was my tv. Even when I put my rack on the back and hauled a rick of oak firewood it barely sagged. Ill see if I can't pick up a set of equalizer bars or a anti sway setup. I haven't towed it except from where I bought it to home, was a little over an hour.
So I will take it out again with both propane tanks full and *** water and see if this helps. It will be this weekend before I can though, I'm 4 hours from home working during the week.
Tim as for windows, I have one in the rear and its pretty wide, I'd say like 2'. I wish I could find a picture of an original "window" unit that was installed on the 70's 17 footers. Or possibly a newer unit fitted to the original mounting location.
For those curious what it looks like here is the original Craigslist add. Although it is not a 14' but a 17'.
14 ft HI-LOW camper
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08-12-2013, 04:33 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,693
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A ball that is adjustable does not make it a load (weight) distributing hitch. It needs bars that extend back from the hitch partway down the tongue and attach there by chains or brackets. Here's a link to how a common kind works: HowStuffWorks "How Towing Weight Distribution Systems Work" Some of them include sway control, but some don't.
I don't think you have a Weight Distributing (WD) hitch, and you should have one.
- Jack
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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew
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08-12-2013, 07:20 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Quakertown, PA
Posts: 1,074
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Sorry, I don't know how I got 95 out of 1975, guess my eyes are getting bad, but I just got new glasses, so nothing but an error on my part.
__________________
Rich
------------------------------------
(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'
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08-12-2013, 08:32 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: near Tampa, Fla
Posts: 277
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pic
Well it looks somewhat like our 1969 hilo. Looked at our AC unit a few minutes ago and it's a carrier. Looks like a window part was removed and small piece of metal was fitted and the AC unit was placed in. Also a shelf was added on the back outside to set the AC unit on.
Later Tim
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08-12-2013, 08:48 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Kansas
Posts: 10
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Tim, as far as the a/c goes if I can't find a unit the size I need I doubt I will remove the window to place one. I'd hate to cut a hole and find a support running from top to bottom that would make the unit i have now un usable. Maybe when I get back home this weekend I will take a strong magnet and see if I find a metal frame support in there. I'd hate to lose the only window there in the rear.
As far as the hitch goes I will look into what you guys are talking about. The one I have is adjustable up and down since my tv is lifted a bit but, simple geometry tells me that when you raise the hitch to a different height it puts more weight on the trailer and less on the hitch and visa versa. According to my manual it suggests towing the camper as level as possible and when I had it towing it was level. Ill go to the trailer shop and see what they have for my application.
I need to figure out my non existent holding tanks and lack of city water hookup also. Has anyone fitted city water to their trailer that didn't have it to begin with?
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08-12-2013, 09:01 PM
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#18
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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08-12-2013, 09:26 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: near Tampa, Fla
Posts: 277
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else
Something else to think about this time towing drive at 60 or whatever a few folks here might suggest and see how that works out for you before you buy a lot of stuff. When I was pulling our boat there were great tow speed and some that just did not work out as well. Speed might be the best and cheapest thing to check out first.
Also check as to where there is power for an AC unit. I think someone had to wire up a special outlet to plug the wall unit into.
Moving items forward and back will also increase and decrease tongue weight.
City water, our hilo has a spot where a hose can be added to supply city water to our hilo.
Later Tim
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08-12-2013, 10:09 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,224
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weight distributing hitch
kansaslx, You might consider looking on craigs list,ebay for used towing equipment. Some of the forum members have had good luck this way to save some $.
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