Greetings. I've never had a problem in 5 years of ownership but now I'm worried. In the past when inspecting the undercarriage I've noticed the hydraulic cylinder was wet on my 80's Sunchaser. I added a small amount of transmission fluid to bring the level up but since the leak never really made a large stain I left it alone.

I just winterized everything and prepared to lower when the squeal of the pump wouldn't stop and I had to disconnect the battery. Now I'm stuck in the high position. I checked the fluid level and discovered my reservoir was empty. I brought the level back up to 1" from the top but I still am not able to lower. The safety bar is not the problem. If I reconnect the battery it draws heavy voltage and won't stop squealing. I've tried the lever for the manual switch but it doesn't change anything. I hate to think my hydraulic pump is ruined because getting a replacement would prove difficult. I'm sure this pump is rugged and I'm not certain there isn't a clog somewhere.

I can't understand why I'm not able to lower when that isn't a function of the pump. I just want to relieve the pressure so that it goes to the low position. This would make servicing easier since the neighborhood code demands that pop-ups be in the low position during storage. I'll try anything that the forum suggests and appreciate all submittals.

Hi Yerg,

Does your unit have a manual lowering valve?

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Greg
2004 4x4 Chevy Tahoe
Former owner of a 2407T

If the unit is in the UP position The tank should be empty The fluid is in the ram.
The squeal should only be present when lifting at its highest point and that signifies it is time to reverse the switch to the other extreme, """"while pulling the safety bar release""", to allow the unit to activate the lowering solenoid.

The switch should be allowed to center when released, or manually if non-centering. You can NOT pull the pump lowering release while pulling the manual lowering handle without the help of someone holding the switch in the down position and pulling the safety.

If the switch is staying in the lift sequence, even when centered, then the switch is bad.

Remove the excess fluid that you put into the pump reservoir before lowering or the fluid will be purged out of the reservoir plug.
Has the unit been in the UP position all summer long? I doubt that there is a plug.

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2002 ford f350, 7.3 diesel
1985 hi-lo funchaser
kb0nai
kd7ctk

My 85' Funchaser has a manual release lever on a solenoid operated release valve. The lever is centered as far as I can tell. If the fluid goes into the cylinder I get some relief in the fact. I'll remove the near 3 quarts I added.
I'll request some help to try to lower by using the manual release lever - I tried once by using jumper cables but still awkward. I suspect you're right about this faulty valve. I will get back to the forum with results as soon as I can. Thanks for your support.

Besides the switch being defective there could also be a chance that the solenoid could be stuck in the on/energized position. Tapping on it could break it loose.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

I removed the excess transmission fluid from the reservoir and then tapped the solenoid with a small hammer. I hooked up the positive battery terminal and was glad to NOT hear the squeal that was non-stop earlier. I'm guessing you were right about it being stuck in the on/energized position. I went back to the toggle switch and pulled the lanyard and flipped the switch but I get nothing. The fuses are all good. There's 12 volts at the battery. The little light next to the lanyard is out but I figure it's just the bulb.

My questions are this. 1. Is there somewhere I can buy another manual solenoid assembly to replace mine. 2. Is there some way I can get the Hi-lo to the lower position while I wait for parts? Thanks for the help.

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Besides the switch being defective there could also be a chance that the solenoid could be stuck in the on/energized position. Tapping on it could break it loose.
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The solenoid can be found at auto parts stores, be sure to take a photo before removing it. Take the old one with you to make sure of a match up to a new one.
There should be a manual release valve on the front of the pump, it looks like the little t-handle on a bottle jack. Someone will have to pull the release cable before you turn the valve. There is also a solenoid valve for lowering, it has a yellow wire attached to it. When you press the release button you should hear it click.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Thanks RichR,
I had the solenoid off once to determine if it was faulty because I couldn't hear the click. I'll see if I can match it up like you suggest. It's the manual valve I tapped on to quit the squealing. I suspect some issue with it as well because all my fiddling with the handle gives no reaction - I'll try again with the release cable pulled out like you mentioned. Would really like to lower the Hi-lo because everything is getting winterized here in Minnesota. I should be able to post a picture next time. Thanks again.


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The solenoid can be found at auto parts stores, be sure to take a photo before removing it. Take the old one with you to make sure of a match up to a new one.
There should be a manual release valve on the front of the pump, it looks like the little t-handle on a bottle jack. Someone will have to pull the release cable before you turn the valve. There is also a solenoid valve for lowering, it has a yellow wire attached to it. When you press the release button you should hear it click.
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Yerg, did you visually check that the safety bar is releasing? If not, check before you go through a lot of hassle. You can have somebody pull on the lanyard while you look at the bar from underneath the trailer.

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Raul

2408T
2010 Nissan Frontier, 4x4, Crew Cab

Hi Norton Rider,
There's no problem with the release of the safety bar. The lanyard functions as it should and I crawled under to verify. Thanks.

btw I'm aka Guzzi Rider





Yerg, did you visually check that the safety bar is releasing? If not, check before you go through a lot of hassle. You can have somebody pull on the lanyard while you look at the bar from underneath the trailer.

1974 850 Commando Roadster.... and you?

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Raul

2408T
2010 Nissan Frontier, 4x4, Crew Cab

I went to the NAPA auto parts store and found a replacement for the bad solenoid switch for $50. Everything is going up and down just like it used to.

Thanks to the forum, thanks to everyone.



btw 1977 850-T3

I'm glad to hear things are operating again.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

I love a successful story.
We are here to help!

steve

__________________
2002 ford f350, 7.3 diesel
1985 hi-lo funchaser
kb0nai
kd7ctk

We just went through that with our hilo. It ended up being dirty negative contact on the connection between battery and the bottom of the motor. This is on a 1988 Funchaser. After that was cleaned up everything is working fine.