Powering hi-lo (

If the guy who sold it was able to show him how it worked by connecting a battery-----then what happened between then and when he got it home? Or am I missing something?

i'm also not buying that there is no master switch. But- if it was off I dont know why he could hear the solenoid engaging.

Rick

hilltool said:

i'm also not buying that there is no master switch. But- if it was off I dont know why he could hear the solenoid engaging.

Rick

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Neither my 2176B nor 2600TFB has a Master Switch like those having been discussed. There is an on/Off Switch on the 2600TFB, But NO intermediate Stop for just the Pump, even though the Manual says it does! On the 2176B the only Switch is at the Breaker Box.

hilltool said:

If the guy who sold it was able to show him how it worked by connecting a battery-----then what happened between then and when he got it home? Or am I missing something?

i'm also not buying that there is no master switch. But- if it was off I dont know why he could hear the solenoid engaging.

Rick

Click to expand...

Some older HiLos did not have master switches and old owners may have modified the electrical hookup. As far as what happened between the previous owner raising the top and Naomi getting it home, the HiLo may have been sitting for a long period and the towing it home may have loosened a connection from viberation. The fact that Naomi can hear a clicking of the solenoid shows that some voltage is getting thru.

Bruce from Kansas said:

Jim,- My Old 2176B is connected just as yours. The Positive Cable goes directly to the Pump and all other Power is directed from that point. As I recall (haven't refreshed my memory by looking again) the ground connects to the solenoid or top of the Pump.{?}

Click to expand...

On my HiLo the battery ground cable goes directly to the frame not to the pump. The pump is grounded either thru the mounting bolts to the frame or a ground strap to the frame. Cannot remember. My HiLo is parked under a low shed so cannot just go raise it, have to hookup and pull it out.

Master switch

Our 1990 Classic doesn't have a master switch. It only has a toggle switch to lift the HiLo up,off or down. DH has had to replace the switch.

"Our 1990 Classic doesn't have a master switch. It only has a toggle switch to lift the HiLo up,off or down. DH has had to replace the switch."

"Some older HiLos did not have master switches and old owners may have modified the electrical hookup."

Well....I happily stand corrected ! And, therefore, I am throwing my weight behind the bad-ground connection. That seems to make sense. Actually- I couldn't raise mine up this spring after pulling it down the road two miles. Bad connection on the positive terminal, maybe. I also had a lose connection at the toggle switch. Hard to say which one was the culprit.

Rick

The clicking sound can sometimes indicate a bad or faulty solenoid when 12v is getting to solenoid, causing it to engage making the clicking sound. But if the solenoid is faulty, the 12v may not be relayed to the starter motor. This failure is often intermittent which may explain it working once then not later. A simple test with a multi meter to determine if 12v are getting to the starter motor when the switch is activated would help to isolate the problem.

Update: sorry I have been slow to respond. My mother is in the hospital. I am going to read the posts and replies this weekend. I can't believe how much info I have already gotten. I was able to raise the trailer or my brother was. He gave the battery a jump! I bought the battery from Walmart. It may have set on the shelf to long. The battery is still not working and I traded it out, by the way Walmart does not let you trade out a battery that has been hooked up even for a second. I plan to charge the battery this weekend to see if it can stand on its own. Thank all of you. This site helped me hold it together, I wanted to take my mom to the beach if she gets on her feet. Felt stuck because I have no idea what I am doing.

HiLo problems

Naomi; Charge that battery up for 24 to 30 hours, then remove the charger for 5 or 6 hours and take the battery to one of the name brand auto parts store and they will check it, for free under a load test and will tell you if it is good. You don't have to take the battery into the store. This is the best test you can do on a battery and not a test most of us can do at home. That low battery was not putting out enough voltage under the load to hold the solenoid in and turn the pump motor. Glad you got it up.

Naomi, I'm delighted to hear you got the top up too! Good on you, and I'm sorry to hear about the faulty battery. I didn't know Walmart would not let you exchange a new battery that doesn't work for one that does. That seems very poor customer service to me. Doesn't a Walmart battery come with any warranty?

Jim has again given you excellent advice regarding the "goodness" of the charge on your battery. If you don't have a charger, the shore power converter in the trailer should charge your battery if you plug it in to a wall plug with the battery connected to the trailer.

Regarding shore power at home, it will charge the battery and should operate the refrigerator, but it WILL NOT power the trailer's Air Conditioner - that device needs a 30Amp supply.

Don't hesitate to ask more questions! We have lots more confusing advice to give!

- Jack

Glad to hear you got the HiLo to raise

If the battery won't hold a charge after you do what our great forum member suggested then I would get the Auto parts store to doccument for you. Take the paper to the Walmart manager. Tell him you want a replacement. Write corporate a letter if need be. If this doesn't work I will give you other avenues for complaint. Prayers sent for your Mom for a speedy recovery.

speaking of batteries

Just a friendly reminder to check your battery water level monthly. I put this on my calender and fill with distilled water. Distilled water is cheap compared to the price of a new battery.

"Regarding shore power at home, it will charge the battery and should operate the refrigerator, but it WILL NOT power the trailer's Air Conditioner - that device needs a 30Amp supply."

Jack- admittedly I guess I am not sure what I have at home but I have, a number of times, powered the AC off my outlets in the garage while running the refrigerator and charging the battery. Over the fourth of July I had the trailer out at my sister's farm and had it plugged in to a utility shed to run the ac (for the dog to hang in). I'm assuming both their place and mine has 200 amp service though the extension cord was plugged into a 20 amp outlet. At home I use a 20 amp.

Rick

I may well be overstating the electrical needs of the AC. Thinking more clearly about it, 20 x 120 = 2400 Watts. And, I suspect that's enough to supply the starting demand.

- Jack

AC just needs a dedicated circuit

Naomi,
I am about two weeks more advanced than you having bought my 1999 Hi Lo 21' Tow Lite 15 days ago. I'm not handymanish or mechanically proficient, but by reading the forum posts here and watching the Hi Lo videos, I've made some progress and expect to be able to try a test camping run soon. I wish you well in your adventures with your new, old Hi Lo. I may be taking mine to the butterfly festival on the lower Rio Grande Valley in early November.

I am having a very similar issue with my 2000 hi-lo 17'. Thank you all so much for your responses to naomi. what a wonderful group of people. My wife and i used our camper every other weekend last summer and as we kept using it i noticed it took longer and longer to raise. This spring i tried to raise it to no avail. I put a new battery in it and still nothing. it tries to go up but stops after a few inches with the pump still making the same noise. fluid level is good. I took apart the pump and there was alot of metal shavings in the reservoir but the gears looked to be in great shape. flushed the system and refilled but still no luck. finally with my 2500 diesel jumped to it i was able to get it up but still took over a minute. I since have tried other batteries from my truck and tractor but will only go up with it being jumped. I've cleaned all connections and now was thinking it could possibly be the brushes. any more ideas would be great. Not trying to steal a thread just thought i could add to it for others to see if they are having similar problems with raising it.
Thanks,
Luke

HiLo problems

Hi Luckyrogue; I will make a stab at this. Its never a good sign when you find metal shavings in the system. They could be coming from two places. The pump gears may be worn and you may not be able to see a few thousands of wear but the pump won't produce the pressure needed to raise the top. I know nothing about rebuilding this pump but the manufacture is still in business. You might call them if this appears to be the problem. The next possible problem is the hydraulic cylinder that raises the top. The o-rings and seal on the piston may be gone and you could have metal to metal wear inside the cylinder. This would pass the metal shavings back to the pump thru the vent line. You should be able to tell if this is the case by getting under the rv. Have someone try to raise the top while you look at the vent line. This is the somewhat clear plastic line that runs from the hyd cylinder back to the pump. If any fluid is flowing in this line when the pump is running then the o-rings/ seals on the piston are shot. This line may have a little fluid laying in the low spots but none flowing. Now to the electrical side. It strange that it tries to raise when you jump it. You may still have a bad connection (mostly ground). On most of the HiLos the ground cable goes from the negitive post on the battery to the frame of the pump motor. Make sure the connection at the pump and pump to frame is clean. If you are dropping a lot of voltage due to a bad connection or badly pitted/worn contacts on the solenoid, or bad brushes you might be dropping enough voltage that the pump is running too slow. Check the voltage at the power lug on the pump when you are trying to raise the top and see what you have If I remember right it should be around 10V. One other thing, In the pump there is a pressure relief valve that opens when the top is completely up and just recirculates the fluid within the pump. This is when you hear the pump squeal. If some of the shavings have stuck under that needle and seat then the pump cannot produce the pressure needed to raise the top. Search the fourm here for how to correct "top creep". This will have the info on how to clean this valve. Also make sure the manual lowering valve on the pump is closed. If some shavings were stuck under the solenoid lowering valve on the pump this also would prevent the pump from producing pressure. DO NOT try to adjust the pressure relief valve to a higher pressure without a pressure gage as the pump can product a pressure high enough to damage the lift system. Make sure all the cable pulleys are good and nothing has falling between the top and bottom half that could be causing a lot of drag on the system. I have sent you a private message. Good luck

Jim, that's damned good advice! I like the "shavings in the solenoid valve" based on his description of what's happening. If it were me, I'd start there.

But, the bad ground is a good thing to check for too.

Lucky - use Jim's post as a detailed troubleshooting guide. I think you'll be able to solve your problems with it.

- Jack