Raising trailer to lubricate cables and shaft for lifting

What is the safest way you have found to raise the Hi-lo up so you can crawl under to lubricate the hydraulic lifting shaft?

Also the door to the bathroom has come apart at the top and bottoms us to too much bouncing up and down I suppose. It is at the miter corners at 45 degrees. Previous owner tried glue unsuccessfully. Thinking about a metal right angle support on the inside to make it look better. Anyone have any better ideas?

Larry from CO
2008 18 foot Hi-lo
New owner

If you don't have enough room to squeeze under with the trailer sitting on the ground (I do) then I recommend you roll the trailer onto a couple 2x6s or leveling blocks to lift the frame off the ground. Leave the trailer connected to your tow vehicle so that it cannot roll off, and make sure your tow vehicle's in park with the parking brake set! Using either wood or blocks under the wheels is a safe way to gain clearance. DO NOT go under the trailer if it is supported with a jack or even jack stands.

There's virtually no stress on my bathroom door, so I would expect virtually any fix to work if mine separated. The metal right angle reinforcements should work.

- Jack

JackandJanet said:

If you don't have enough room to squeeze under with the trailer sitting on the ground (I do) then I recommend you roll the trailer onto a couple 2x6s or leveling blocks to lift the frame off the ground. Leave the trailer connected to your tow vehicle so that it cannot roll off, and make sure your tow vehicle's in park with the parking brake set! Using either wood or blocks under the wheels is a safe way to gain clearance. DO NOT go under the trailer if it is supported with a jack or even jack stands.

There's virtually no stress on my bathroom door, so I would expect virtually any fix to work if mine separated. The metal right angle reinforcements should work.

- Jack

Click to expand...

Thank you, Jack. You will be happy to hear that I completed the Sintering of my trailer today. The existing pump worked like a charm, sucking up the antifreeze like a charm, no priming necessary. Opened the valve, and before you know it, the job was done. I am now making notes of what to close in the Spring.
Is the wooden door to your bathroom just held by a fabric snap? Ours is so the door opens and closes on its own as we travel, putting a log of stress on the wooden joints, or is your door somehow fastened to a wall so it does not bounce around? I think once I repair it, I may buy an elastic band to hold the door secure to the wall. What do you think. I don’t want to do a cheesy repair that does not look like a professional job. Any comments are welcomed.

Th as bid for the 2x6 suggestion to raise the trailer a bit to allow me to get under to put the lithium grease on the shaft. Should the top be raised all the way up to access the metal of the shaft?

How long does it take? So you apply it with a paint brush or putty knife?

Larry

Two fingers, putty knife to lube the shaft. Lol

I used a paper shop towel and alcohol to clean the shaft, then a fresh shop towel to spread the grease. Again, you can use axle grease or lithium grease. I did all this with the top up, which put the ram in about the middle of the rod, then lowered the top and cleaned and lubed the small area the ram covered, which was exposed with the top down.

Yup, my door is held closed only by the fabric strap and a snap closure. I generally snap it closed before travel. A bungee cord to hold it closed would work too. I have a bungee cord across the door to the fridge to help keep it closed.

I added extra magnetic catches to cabinet doors that swing open. The ones on the top, that lift up, seem to have very strong springs in the hinges that keep them closed.

- Jack

Use an auto creeper-makes the job so easy!