replacement refridgerator?

goodolboy1080

goodolboy1080

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
20
Location
Alvin/Houston, TX
anyone have any experience with putting a regular 120v dorm style refrigerator in place of the gas/12v/120v that is in the campers originally? I feel it would be safe as long as gas lines are capped and 12v is disconnected/ capped/ any thoughts?
 
I think that it will be safe provided that you do a few of additional things: 1- make sure that the refrigerator has the minimum amount of clearance specified in the instructions for the back, sides, top, etc, 2- Make sure that the electrical circuit/wire going to the refrigerator is adequate for the load, 3- Rig up a latch, bungee cord, etc, to keep the door closed when you are towing the trailer, 4- Lastly, if you are planning on running it from the batteries, make sure that you have an adequate sized inverter, it is fused properly, and the batteries have enough capacity. Don't forget that inverters are 80%-90% efficient.
 
I learned something here.

These are all good tips and ... I was aware of each of them.
But I never would have thought of them until I was belly deep, too late.

Good job, NR.
 
This might help you with your question also. We use a medium size dorm refrigerator in our motorcycle cargo trailer, running it from an inverter. It draws 165 watts for about 2 seconds during start-up and then draws a steady 106 watts. Our inverter has a digital readout telling how many watts are being used. We run an extension cord from the inside of the trailer to under the hood of our Excursion and it never has failed to work properly.
 
thanks guys. I had also taken these into consideration. I have replaced my breaker box already to support the a/c and some additional outlets I put outside. so I should be in good shape. I appreciate the feedback. I cannot get the fridge in it working on any type of power. I have 120v at the outlet it is plugged into, can't get it to work on 12v or lp. trailer is level, I let it sit 4 4-5 hours as is says, so I guess the unit is just bad, which sucks, because it looks brand new.
 
If it looks new then I think it'd be a shame to dump it without getting a professional look-see at it. It may be something simple and well worth fixing.
 
I've printed several repair/trouble shooting manuals, so this weekend I'm going to got through and double check all the systems. I read somewhere if there is one system not working/connected, the fridge will not work. so I am going to start at square one and go from there. I know the camper has some electrical bugs in the lights with the little lamp shades, blows bulbs and fuses as soon as you install a bulb. may be tied to that issue somehow?
 
goodolboy1080 said:
I've printed several repair/trouble shooting manuals, so this weekend I'm going to got through and double check all the systems. I read somewhere if there is one system not working/connected, the fridge will not work. so I am going to start at square one and go from there. I know the camper has some electrical bugs in the lights with the little lamp shades, blows bulbs and fuses as soon as you install a bulb. may be tied to that issue somehow?
Click to expand...

About the bulbs, did you notice if the bulbs or sockets are the type with double contacts. A standard single tip bulb will not work, it will blow a fuse. I don't know what the bulb number is, maybe someone here with a Classic can give you that.
 
I think they are just regular 1156 bulbs like a reverse light in old Ford & dodge trucks. The twin tip bulbs are 1157 dual element bulbs for running light/brake/turn signal.
 
goodolboy1080 said:
I think they are just regular 1156 bulbs like a reverse light in old Ford & dodge trucks. The twin tip bulbs are 1157 dual element bulbs for running light/brake/turn signal.
Click to expand...

I don't think so because these are single filament bulbs. If I had my HiLo dealer friend in reach he could probably tell me the number. I remember them because I was helping him with a trailer once and he had me replacing burnt out bulbs and I put the wrong one in and blew a fuse. It was not a 1156 or 1157.
 
A few months ago I went to Walmart looking for a replacement interior light bulb. They didn't have the correct one but they had some that were the correct physical size with the dual pins. I think the difference was the wattage was a bit lower than original. It worked like a charm.

As I recall ... they were expensive for what they were, a two pack for $6.

Once upon a time me and a date could eat at Shoneys for under $5 ($6 with a tip). Waitress Maggie Mae (Rod Steward) Mexican/Arizona border, 1971?
 
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Wrascal, when i read senior member, i didn't realize it meant senior citizen! You can't eat for that cheap unless you're a senior or have a 2 for 1 coupon, lol! I'm going to look around my shop & see if i can scrounge up a bulb that works. If not, the dreaded trip to Wally world
 
Bear in mind that 1156 and 1157 bulbs will fit, but they are of a HIGHER wattage. They create more heat and will eventually dry out your lens and make it break right where the bulb is. Better to keep the lens off the fixture if you are going to use automotive bulbs.
 
notanlines said:
Bear in mind that 1156 and 1157 bulbs will fit, but they are of a HIGHER wattage. They create more heat and will eventually dry out your lens and make it break right where the bulb is. Better to keep the lens off the fixture if you are going to use automotive bulbs.
Click to expand...

Those bulbs will not work in the fixtures with lamp shades. Those require the 1076 single filament w/dual contact base. The standard bulb for the ceiling fixtures is 1141.
 
I had trouble getting my fridge cold..found out it was the heating element.. replaced that and now it works great..easy to put in... but have to pull fridge out to install it.. only a note...
 
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