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03-28-2017, 10:49 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: ALABAMA
Posts: 1
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Roof Leak
I have suddenly acquired a small leak that appears to be somewhere around the stove vent. Would appreciate any suggestions for sealing. Thinking about using Flex Seal. Thanks for your ideas.
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03-28-2017, 01:58 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,224
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Roof leak
Seems to me I remember someone else with a stove vent leak. Pull the stove vent out. This will give you a look at your interior wall to see if you have water damage. Do not use Flex seal under any circumstances. You may use butyl tape and or Lexel caulk. Lexel caulk can be purchased at ACE Hardware,Lowes or on line. It is around nine dollars a tube. Some have used externa bond tape to seal roof leaks. If your RV is older than a few years it is highly recomended that all windows be pulled and resealed/installed. Keep us posted. When repairs are completed test with a good rainstorm or garden hose. Many uses for Lexel caulk in HiLo repairs.
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03-29-2017, 12:22 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam
Seems to me I remember someone else with a stove vent leak. Pull the stove vent out. This will give you a look at your interior wall to see if you have water damage. Do not use Flex seal under any circumstances. You may use butyl tape and or Lexel caulk. Lexel caulk can be purchased at ACE Hardware,Lowes or on line. It is around nine dollars a tube. Some have used externa bond tape to seal roof leaks. If your RV is older than a few years it is highly recomended that all windows be pulled and resealed/installed. Keep us posted. When repairs are completed test with a good rainstorm or garden hose. Many uses for Lexel caulk in HiLo repairs.
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hello again Mr. Sam,
I was in the process of removing all my window. I have a 1992 Funlite as stated before. The problem I ran into is that on the left side where the wall was leaking, When I go to remove the screws they are rusty and are breaking off in the frame. Don't know if I can drill and make new holes or what. Any advice from you guys will be greatly appreciated. I did manage however to remove the front right window with no problem. I used buytl tape and then followed up with RV caulking.
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03-29-2017, 10:07 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SWFL Bonita Springs/Andrews, NC
Posts: 1,264
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lisa, fear not about the screws breaking. The inside trim will come off after all screws are removed OR broken. Ensure the window is braced from the outside so it doesn't fall. You SHOULD have to kinda peel the window from the trailer side, the old butyl tape should still be holding. Lay the window on a workbench or folding table. Use a NEEDLE NOSED pliers on those broken screws and screw them IN. This allows the screws to free from the window frame. Replacement screws should be stainless--good ones! Home depot stainless screws aren't very good. I use a hard plastic scraper about 1" across, sharpened to a pretty sharp edge. Plastic causes less damage to the fiberglass surface. Clean the surface with the scraper and mineral spirits. Once it dries it MUST be cleaned with rubbing alcohol, even windex will work. Otherwise Butyl won't seal perfectly. With butyl tape installed, screws installed and tightened, I suggest you leave the window sit for a day or two then use the plastic scraper to cut excess butyl neat and smooth, some call it a "square cut" or 90 degree cut, then a smooth bead of white Lexel caulk. take your time and go for a neat finish.
Tree
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Treeclimber
2703 Tow Lite
2002 Escalade
Bonita Springs, Fl. &
Andrews, NC
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03-29-2017, 10:16 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 81
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Tree,
My Windows screws from the outside, so the broken screws are in the frame of the trailer. I have tried drilling them out to no avail. Any suggestions?
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03-29-2017, 10:17 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SWFL Bonita Springs/Andrews, NC
Posts: 1,264
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lisa, I note in the pictures you a wavy side Hi Lo. You should first fill the valleys with a piece of butyl then another single layer over that all the way around the opening. This will ensure the window is sealed.
Tree
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Treeclimber
2703 Tow Lite
2002 Escalade
Bonita Springs, Fl. &
Andrews, NC
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03-29-2017, 10:41 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treeclimber
lisa, I note in the pictures you a wavy side Hi Lo. You should first fill the valleys with a piece of butyl then another single layer over that all the way around the opening. This will ensure the window is sealed.
Tree
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Thanks for the info, I will do that.
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03-29-2017, 10:48 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,224
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Resealing window
Trrclimber gave you good advice on broken rusty screws. We didn't have any broken screws. I was able to buy several times a large quanity of stainless steel screws from McFeelys. Some have gotten them at Fastenal. It is amazing the amt. of screws in the HiLo. Both interior and exterior. You tube has a video tutorial on how to remove and reseal window. We have the wavy fiberglass siding and found it necessary to wrap two complete rows of butyl tape around the window to get a good seal. SP Treeclimber sorry about the typo. My brain goes faster than my typing.
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03-29-2017, 11:57 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 81
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Thanks guys
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03-30-2017, 06:05 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,224
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Spoke with DH
He reminded me that he had broken rusty screws on the exterior at the beltline trim. He put caulk on the old screws and drilled new holes. When we did our windows he used two rows of butyl tape on each window. This was because we had the wavy fiberglass siding. This has held up well for many years.
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03-30-2017, 06:09 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam
He reminded me that he had broken rusty screws on the exterior at the beltline trim. He put caulk on the old screws and drilled new holes. When we did our windows he used two rows of butyl tape on each window. This was because we had the wavy fiberglass siding. This has held up well for many years.
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Thank you again for speaking with DH. I have written his number down. I was wondering about drilling new holes and putting caulking on the old ones.
Like I said before "YOU GUYS ARE A LIFE SAVER ON THIS FORUM" I am so glad that I stumbled upon it when I was googling.
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