Ok so I finally felt brave enough to take a look at the loo. It rinses but when I pull the gray "flush" handle nothing happens. If there is a thread on this that would be great. I had the water pump on. Water does come out. I am in the process of trying to pump my bleach water through all the drains.

Sorry, I'm not quite sure I understand. You're saying the toilet does not "flush", when you pull the flush handle? But, somehow it is "rinsing"? That's what's confusing me. My toilet has no "rinse" function. It just flushes.

I press the flush handle and a trapdoor opens in the bottom of the bowl and water is released at the top of the bowl that circulates around the inside to clean it and to help move contents down into the tank. I have to push the flush handle all the way down to open the trapdoor. Water starts coming in at the first movement of the handle.

Yes, the water pump DOES have to be on to pressurize the system.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew

Oh yes I have two levers: a gray and white. Two separate. You pull the white forward and water trickles in. You then pull the gray and the little trap door opens up. I pulled harder and it opened! To my surprise. Cool. But now I noticed water dripping out the bottom of the rig where the elbow is attached to the gray tank. A leak I imagine. It's coming from the gray tank. Only noticed it after messing with the loo.vWonder if there is a connection?

tin, mine is like yours, two levers. One to rinse and the gray one to flush, trap opens - all gone. But it does sound like you may have a dis-connection. Sorry, couldn't pass that up.
You might be able to see a leak from underneath, though I doubt that. The toilet flange to the black tank may have come loose or broken off. The potty will have to be removed to investigate. Of course disinfect the area, and try and locate the leaking area from the top. Let us know what you find.
Tree

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Treeclimber
2703 Tow Lite
2002 Escalade
Bonita Springs, Fl. &
Andrews, NC

I can see the clean water dripping out slowly from underneath the rig. The plastic pipe connected to the gray tank. Like it's escaping from the round seam. I think it might be a quick fix with sealant I hope. It's not the black tank. Anyway maybe pressure from flushing the toliet? Or turning on the water pump probably did it.

Tinovack - I suspect it's just old age and a small amount of "flexing" where the pipe joins the tank. I had this happen on my black tank. It developed a small crack where the pipe and tank came together.

My fix was pretty simple. I used fiberglass and ABS cement to cover the area where the leak was happening. First, I cleaned the area with ABS cleaner. Then, I put a coat of ABS cement on the area followed by laying a piece of fiberglass on top of that. The fiberglass extends over the pipe and the tank. Then, I applied more ABS cement over that whole mess and let it cure. Next day, I repeated the whole process. This repair formed a rigid patch where the piping met the tank and I've had no further leaks.

Another member had a clamp applied to the pipe where it passed under the frame of the trailer to keep the pipe from moving at the pipe-tank join area. He posted a thread on this repair in the forum.

I did not have to remove the tank to do the repair. Wear nitrile gloves and you can do it by hand.

- Jack

Very good. We are in the middle of fixing it. We are currently using a tube (2 tubes mixed together) of
J-B Weld KwikWeld quick-setting steel reinforced epoxy. My neighbor is a jack-of-all-trades. If this doesn't work I will refer him to your notes so thank you (again). We are also working on reinforcing the awning. Just the strip where it was exposed to the sun when rolled up. I ordered (2) 15'x 4" awning tape for this from Etrailer. 90 % of the awning fabric is perfect. We tested the hot water heater and after 18 YEARS the water is HOT! So excited about that. I need a propane tank cover and something else. Can't remember at the moment. Is there a thread for items needed for purchase or whatever. Need to fix the lock on the inner door. My wand for the awning is missing. We hooked up two batteries in series I guess. Would like to create a 24 VOLT system with solar.

I don't think you want 24V coming out of the batteries! Nothing in the trailer is designed for 24V. It is all 12V DC. Yes, you can hook your solar panels in series to send 24V or even higher, to the charge controller, since it will reduce that voltage to a safe level to charge a 12V system. But, 24V would destroy your interior lighting, your refrigerator if you power it on DC, your water pump, and your heater fan. It will also kill any sensing equipment such as the water tank level system.

J-B Weld is a miracle product, especially for joining metal, but I don't know how well it will adhere to ABS. I'll be interested in hearing how it works out.

- Jack

2 batteries in parallel is fine ...make 12v for longer use...and like said series 24v is no no

Ok. I really would have liked a 24 VOLT system but I realize now thanks to you guys that my rig is a 12 VOLT system. I did know the rig was set up for 12 volt but thought i could use a converter or inverter or whatever. I do have 2 batteries in parallel but according to Will Prowse III on YouTube batteries do not like to be in parallel.

I have no idea where he gets this opinion, but I don't think it has any basis in fact. Batteries are perfectly happy to be connected in parallel, as long as you follow a few simple rules:

1. The batteries need to be of identical make and capacity. In other words, don't mix a gel cell with a wet cell, don't mix a Diehard with an Interstate, and don't mix a Group Size 24 with a 27.

2. They should be the same age. There will be a sticker on them that tells you the month and year they were made.

3. Don't mix an automotive starting battery with a marine/deep cycle battery.

If you follow these rules, the batteries will receive equal charging current at the same Voltage, and, of course, their Voltage and current output will be identical.

I've been using 2-Group Size 24 batteries, connected in parallel, in my HiLo for many years now and have been happy with the results. (Twice the capacity of a single battery.)

- Jack

Only use ABS repair kit for ABS tank. It is unlikely that epoxies will adhere and may not flex enough. I have used the Permatex Plastic Tank Repair Kit from Amazon, and the repair has lasted over 10 years. Once mixed, this material cures pretty fast, so be ready to work! I suggest buying 2. I found it faster to precut the fiberglass and then put the mixed adhesive on the tank and quickly press the fiberglass into the adhesive (with plastic gloves on of course). More adhesive and then more fiberglass if you work quickly.

Nothing wrong with batteries in parallel as long as they are approximately the same size, meaning capacity not inches. Don’t be concerned with cold cranking amps (CCA) but rather amperage stores.

As far as the leak, I have used JB Weld in both steal and plastic varieties (yes, they make a plastic weld), but recently had a leak on the outlet tube from the gray tank. I tried the flex-seal tape and it was great! This was a stress crack almost all the way around the 90 degree elbow. I wrapped several layers for about two inches on either side of the crack. It was very easy to work with, no cleanup, and adheres almost instantly with no drying time.