Has anyone attempted/succeeded to run the Hi-Lo fridge on 110V instead of 12v while traveling to the next adventure? Did you prefer the 110v or 12v for performance?

I don't know how you'd be able to power the fridge successfully on 120 AC power while towing. Since you can't plug the trailer into shore power when traveling, you'd need a very high output DC-AC inverter to supply the needed power and that would drain your trailer's battery quite rapidly, putting a load on it that the tow vehicle's alternator could not begin to match.

I'm powering my fridge on 12V DC when underway, but I have 300 Watts of solar power charging the battery in addition to the the +12V output from my tow vehicle. When I arrive, the refrigerator is still cold and the trailer battery is still charged.

As an aside, the 110V AC standard for home power was replaced by 120V AC about 75 years ago. Homes also receive 240V AC for high draw appliances, such as electric ranges, dryers and air conditioners.

- Jack

__________________
Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew

Hello Jack,

I have a 2022 Ram 1500 Eco-diesel with a 220amp alternator and 400 watt inverter. I ran the ac line to the bed from the cab and then set up a 10ga extension from the outlet in the bed to the shore power chord with an adapter on the trailer and it seems to work fine. I monitor the truck's charge state and it's always above 13 volts. I have 3 solar panels on the lid as well but don't deploy the controller unless boondocking or storage outside. Of course you're right about the voltage. Started as 110, then increased until 120v in the mid 80's, well, officially, I think. I just use the term interchangeably from OLD habits.

I know that 12vdc is more efficient than 120vac but I just wanted to see if anyone found that the fridge performs better or worse while on the inverter instead of direct 120v from the chord.

JCD - If your truck CAN supply the 120V AC power, then I don't see any problem powering the fridge with it. I think my new truck could do this as well, with the onboard 120V outlets in the bed. I just don't see the need with my solar power setup.

I don't know that 12V DC is more efficient than 120V AC. The MOST efficient way to power the fridge is with propane, from everything I've read, but this is not a good idea since having an open flame at a gas station is a recipe for disaster. I've always thought that 12V was the LEAST preferred way to power the fridge, but that is probably based on how quickly it will drain the battery.

Since you have the capability, I'd say go for it and see how it works. You'll be powering your trailer's converter too, so it will be charging the battery along with your truck's +12V DC output. I don't think this will cause any problems, because I think they can work together.

Sorry for being pedantic. I think folks need to know that old appliances that were designed for the 110V standard may not be usable now.

- Jack

Good morning Jack,

Well, I'm just trying different back up plans just in case. As far as efficiency goes for the fridge, you read, I read and everybody read but, we all have different findings. For example, a propane fridge will only cool to a limited temperature if it is very hot outside because the condenser is less effective at cooling the ammonia. I think that the max external temperature is like 80 degrees before efficiency plummets? But if nothing else is available, propane it is.

No reason to apologize. It's good that everyone remain correctly informed of the good and poor decisions to be made. Unless you want to replace units, it is it bad to use either 110vac, 115vac or 117vac on a 120vac.

RV appliances are expensive. I only replace mine when they are dead. Perhaps when mine bites the dust I will just replace the Amish cooling unit. If I replace with the same model I learned to save ref. parts from the old one. Some look to the boating suppliers for replacement. They are sturdy to take a beating. Got to thank Jack for his great posts/help.

I did not think we could run the fridge on propane with the top down whie traveling.

It's possible - some have done it. However, it's not smart to have an open flame around gas station pumps. There are other threads about this in the forum.

I suspect the flame might blow out during travel too, under certain circumstances which would stop refrigeration.

- Jack

I have never done this. All my food comes out of my home refrigerator.Some of my food is frozen. I use some ice packs. Dry ice is an option. I have traveled two hrs. and the food remains cold/frozen. The key is to raise the HiLo up and put the ref. on electric as part of your set up. We never boondock.

we do the same and that is good on short runs BUT however we take long trips and just this past yeaer it was 7500 mile and travel 500 mile a day on almost every day . I have to have our refrigerator checked in the spring before the next trip which is 1100 mile to the Hilo reuion in Branson june if anybody wants to go I will give an email to contact the proper person and that will be 550 mile each day = 2 days and seems like the DC not good enough and it is a refrigerator 4 years old and the mechanic I use checked out when serviced in Aug. said 1 battery is bad and the other about half so I will replace both batteries with marine style and check it before the trip and if still not sufficient I will have him check it out. Because the next trip in Aug is out to Glacier park and back = 6000 mile

I have a cooler that keeps food cold for five days with ice. I have frozen water in empty milk or juice jugs. When it is thawed out I am left with cold filtered water. See what you can buy from the boating supplies. Dometic portable refs. are not cheap.

so what you have is a portablke kooler or refrigerator and what model # is it