Originally Posted by JackandJanet

A three foot length sounds very much like the length of my Equal-I-Zer bars. And, when you have everything set up right, the bars will be under a significant load - they are effectively lifting the rear end of your tow vehicle so that some of the weight of the hitch is transferred to the TV front.

I have to raise my coupled truck and trailer with the trailer jack probably at least six inches above the final ride height to move my bars into position. Then, once placed on the brackets, I retract the jack and everything settles down to the correct ride state. I ALWAYS put several leveling blocks under the jack base when camping so that I don't run out of jack lifting range when I need to lift it. At home, the jack base sits on a cinderblock for the same reason.

If the bars are angled up too much (chains too short) to transfer the weight correctly, you need to angle the ball on your tow vehicle back (the head angle Rich was talking about) so that the bars are angled down more when the chains are not connected. This will allow you to get the bars close to level with the chains hooked up. On my hitch, the angle is controlled by washers used as spacers - one washer has a large effect.

Yes, ideally the bars should be close to parallel to the tongue if things are set up right. A small deviation is not problematic, but parallel makes them work most efficiently.

Don't be concerned about lifting your coupled trailer-TV combination with the trailer hitch jack. It is quite powerful, I think at least 3000# and maybe even 4000# lifting capacity. I have to lift my trailer-TV both to put the bars on and to take them off. The bars are carrying a LOT of load. You should be able to lift the whole thing enough so that attaching the chain takes little to no effort. Yes, you'll hear the jack straining, but it's built to work hard.

One nice thing about those bars carrying that much load though, is that they force the trailer coupler DOWN onto the hitch ball. I doubt there is any way it could become uncoupled while towing if things are set up properly.

- Jack

Originally Posted by Garry

Jack, your last paragraph is so true. When time to unhook, I have difficulty removing the coupler from the hitch ball.

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

My technique is to raise everything to get the bars unhooked. Then, retract the trailer jack so that the tongue is supported only by the TV ball. Next, move the TV slightly forward to get the ball away from the coupler lock. This allows me to move the coupler lock clear of the ball easily. Then, I use the tongue jack again to lift the tongue off the TV ball.

Garry, I'm sure you do something similar, so this was not meant for you. But, it might be helpful for people here who are new to towing.

- Jack

Originally Posted by Dee Tillotson

RichR, I notice that you have a detailed description in the Hi-Lo reference library under towing. That may help a lot of new RVers on this forum. Everyone seems to zero right in on the hitch and weight distribution. First, I think a new RVer should come up with the specifications of their tow vehicle, which they will find posted near the driver's side of their vehicle and in their tow vehicle manual which came with the vehicle. Specifications like 1) towing capacity, 2) payload of their vehicle, 3) rear axle ratio, i.e., 5.5, 4.1, etc. Even when using proper weight distribution, exceeding those limits could account for that rear end drop. I think everyone (especially in Greg's case) agrees that the upper end gross weight of Greg's hitch is 600-650 lbs. which is about 10-12 percent of his 6,000 lb. gross capacity of his camper. Before use of weight distribution, that approximately 600 lbs. of hitch takes away from his payload capacity and rear axle capacity of his vehicle before loading anyone or anything into his tow vehicle.

Dee

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

My technique is to raise everything to get the bars unhooked. Then, retract the trailer jack so that the tongue is supported only by the TV ball. Next, move the TV slightly forward to get the ball away from the coupler lock. This allows me to move the coupler lock clear of the ball easily. Then, I use the tongue jack again to lift the tongue off the TV ball.

Garry, I'm sure you do something similar, so this was not meant for you. But, it might be helpful for people here who are new to towing.

- Jack

Originally Posted by RichR

I'm sorry, but I can't find the post that I had on the subject. Could you copy the web address and paste it here or do a link to it? Thanks!

Originally Posted by Luckydog671

Rich, I've already had the same issue that Garry mentions so will try your method next time. Thank you!

Originally Posted by Garry

Jack, your last paragraph is so true. When time to unhook, I have difficulty removing the coupler from the hitch ball.

Originally Posted by RichR

Hey gang, I'm going to start a new thread on hitches, etc. This thread is getting pretty overloaded and has been somewhat hijacked. I will link the previous posts with hitch info.

Originally Posted by sam

I hung all six metal blinds over my clothes line. Kind of heavy with the header clothes pined to the line. Fun doing this by my self. The weather was cooperative at 72degrees with no wind and sunshine. Ended up spraying about three coats on each side. Came out 95% good. Certainly better than blinds with the coating missing. Used 8 cans of spray paint at about $34.00 total cost. The next spray paint project will be to remove the exterior plastic trim that cover some wires. Just old age,nothing that a little TLC can't cure. A chance of rain every day and humid.

Originally Posted by Garry

Today I will be moving the trailer out from the side storage area and prepping for tomorrows four day camping trip with daughter, son-in law and two grandchildren. Just a short trip up to Big Bear Lake here in dry Southern California.

Originally Posted by Luckydog671

Have a great time, Garry! We are actually getting some sprinkles up here in the Tehachapi mountains today. Praise the Lord!