There was no information in my 1995 23FLL user manual for making these adjustments so I followed what I did on my 60s vintage automobiles.

Brakes:
1.) Adjust star sprocket out until wheel doesn't move.
2.) Back off/in star sprocket just until wheel reaches freest spin.
However I've read that you should leave some brake drag. This seems like unnecessary brake shoe wear?

Wheel bearings:
1.) Tighten spinal/castle nut until drag is felt.
2.) Back off/loosen nut just until wheel reaches freest spin.
3.) Back off/loosen nut just enough more to allow cotter pin in hole.

Any specific HiLo or more modern adjustment feedback for these procedures?

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Thanks,
Steve
Shingle Springs, CA (between Sacramento and Tahoe on HW50)
1995 23' FunLite
2007 Silverado C-1500 LT, regular cab, standard box, 5.3L flex fuel, 3.73 GR, 13k lbs GCWR

You pretty well nailed it. The only thing I would add is to spin the wheel while tightening down the nut to snug to make sure the bearings are properly seated and aligned. I have seen to use a torque wrench but I have never seen anyone do that. Back off until you feel just a small bit of play when you wiggle the wheel, then enough more to insert the cotter pin. When you replace the dust cap don't tap it on with a hammer which would dent the cap and cause it to rub on the cotter pin and spindle and wear a hole in the cap. Tap the cap down by using a screwdriver and hammer on the flange or slip a large socket over the cap and tap on it until the cap is seated.

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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
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Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

And I suspect if there's just a tiny bit of brake drag, it will soon be gone due to the wear that you spoke of. The goal is to get the brake shoes as close as possible to the drums and the same distance out on all the wheels.

- Jack

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