winterizing

Norton Rider said:
Your trailer should have full winterizing provisions installed, including a water heater bypass kit. Read the manuals posted in this forum for instructions. Also watch the Hi-Lo instructional videos linked from the forum. One of them covers winterization using the built in provisions. I think it would be safer to do this than to blow out the system. You can't get all the water out by blowing the system out. Some water may collect at a low spot, in the pump diaphragm housing, etc, and freeze.

I've never left any of the valves open. Doing this will make no difference.

Does your lift pump have the optional, manual backup? If so, store the batteries in a warm place with a trickle charger or battery maintainer hooked up. In the spring lift the top using the manual pump.
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Hi Raul,

Thanks for the info. Yes, I do have the manual backup and have actually tested it to make sure it works. How do you get the top half down (manually) after removing the batteries?

Thanks for the video link, I had forgotten about that.
 
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JIM L said:
The shower drain does have a p-trap. Make sure you use RV antifreeze. Also on my HiLo there are two drain valves in the rear storage compartment under the carpet to drain the water lines. I am sure that different HiLo models and year will have these in different locations or not at all. These two drain valves drain thru the floor and dump under the trailer.
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Thanks, Jim. I figured there was probably a p-trap but haven't yet crawled under there to look. I did find the two drains you mentioned. In my model, they are under the front dinette bench on the left side.
 
There is a manual lowering valve on the Hyd pump. On mine it looks like the lowering valve on a hyd bottle jack. Just open the valve a little and the top will come down. You then have to close the valve thru the slot in the battery/pump box that the manual pump handle goes thru to get the top to lift in the spring.
 
JIM L said:
There is a manual lowering valve on the Hyd pump. On mine it looks like the lowering valve on a hyd bottle jack. Just open the valve a little and the top will come down. You then have to close the valve thru the slot in the battery/pump box that the manual pump handle goes thru to get the top to lift in the spring.
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Thanks, Jim, I'll check that out!
 
JIM L said:
The shower drain does have a p-trap. Make sure you use RV antifreeze. Also on my HiLo there are two drain valves in the rear storage compartment under the carpet to drain the water lines. I am sure that different HiLo models and year will have these in different locations or not at all. These two drain valves drain thru the floor and dump under the trailer.
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OK, I crawled under the back corner of the trailer and found the shower p-trap. It was covered by a protective cover which is held up by two square-head screws. Glad to see the manufacturer made the trap easily accessible.

I went ahead and used the antifreeze method to winterize after all since I don't have a blowout plug. I may purchase or make one to use next year though. I bypassed the water heater using the manufacturer installed valves. It sure was nice of Hi-Lo to set that up, as well as providing a method to suck up the pink stuff! I could see it in all the clear plastic supply lines.

A couple more questions . . .

Should all the faucets be left closed or open for the winter?

The Atwood water heater manual states that after draining, up to a couple gallons of water can remain in the bottom of the heater. This excess water is corrosive to the tank and should be blown out. Does anyone know of a method to do this?

Thanks,
The only area
 
I leave all of the faucets cracked just a little so they don't stick to the valve seat. About any water being left in the heater, I have never read anything about that. My drain is in the very bottom of the heater so no water is left in it. I do flush the heater in the spring before I put the plug back in.
 
Luckydog671 said:
The Atwood water heater manual states that after draining, up to a couple gallons of water can remain in the bottom of the heater. This excess water is corrosive to the tank and should be blown out. Does anyone know of a method to do this?

Thanks,
The only area
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That can't be right. The drain plug is at the bottom of the tank and when the water is drained out there can't be any more than a cup of water left.
 
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RichR said:
That can't be right. The drain plug is at the bottom of the tank and when the water is drained out there can't be any more than a cup of water left.
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Whoops! Make that 2 quarts, not gallons.

Verbatim from my (Atwood) manual, in the "Winterizing (Flushing) Instructions:

"3. After draining the tank, because of the placement of the drain plug, approximately two quarts of water will remain in the tank. This water contains most of the harmful corrosive particles. To remove these harmful corrosive particles flush the tank with either air or water."

I guess this next part answers my question. Just wondering is anyone has actually done it:

"Whether using air or water pressure, it may be applied through the inlet or outlet on the rear of the tank or the Pressure Temperature Relief Valve (If using the PTRV the support flange must be removed). The pressure will force out the remaining water and the corrosive particles."
 
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RichR said:
I know you can flush the WH by sticking a hose in the drain hole and let it run. Using this little tool would make the operation easier.Amazon.com: Camco 11691 Water Heater Tank Rinser: Automotive
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I went ahead and purchased the Camco tank rinser and it seems to work well. It would be easy to construct one but they are pretty inexpensive to buy.

On the subject of protecting the tires during winter storage, I have pumped them up to the max cold pressure and covered them. I'm wondering if I should put boards under them as some folks have mentioned. The trailer is parked on a gravel pad so wasn't sure if it was necessary . . .
 
Luckydog671 said:
I went ahead and purchased the Camco tank rinser and it seems to work well. It would be easy to construct one but they are pretty inexpensive to buy.

On the subject of protecting the tires during winter storage, I have pumped them up to the max cold pressure and covered them. I'm wondering if I should put boards under them as some folks have mentioned. The trailer is parked on a gravel pad so wasn't sure if it was necessary . . .
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From what I read on the Goodyear website they recommend getting the tires off the ground and asphalt.
 
RichR said:
From what I read on the Goodyear website they recommend getting the tires off the ground and asphalt.
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I have mine on the plastic leveling plates that have a "waffle surface" so that they can stick together when stacked. That surface allows any water to drain away if it rains, and, of course, they're off the ground.

- Jack
 
winter storing

Just one other question from a newbie; I see other trailer owners put their jack stands down during the winter. Our hilo is stored inside on a cement floor, in a heated building. tires pumped a little extra and sit on wood. Do other hilo owners put the jacks down? Is it needed, a good idea? Thanks!
 
jffh said:
Just one other question from a newbie; I see other trailer owners put their jack stands down during the winter. Our hilo is stored inside on a cement floor, in a heated building. tires pumped a little extra and sit on wood. Do other hilo owners put the jacks down? Is it needed, a good idea? Thanks!
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The purpose of the jacks that are installed on the Hi-Lo is to stabilize the trailer and prevent excessive rocking when occupied. Putting them down while the trailer is stored serves no purpose.
 
Norton Rider said:
The purpose of the jacks that are installed on the Hi-Lo is to stabilize the trailer and prevent excessive rocking when occupied. Putting them down while the trailer is stored serves no purpose.
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My trailer is stored outdoors so I put the jacks down so the winds don't rock it around too much.
 
I prefer using the term "stabilizer jacks" versus "jack stands" since their purpose is to stabilize the trailer while occupied, as mentioned.

We just had a rain storm blow through which gave us a much needed 1.25 inches of rain. I left the camper in the up position so I could check for leaks after the storm and I'm happy to report no leaks were noted.

We get some pretty gusty winds up here in the mountains and mine is stored outside with the stabilizer jacks up. However, since this is my first year owning it, I'll let you know if it blows away! :D
 
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Luckydog671 said:
I prefer using the term "stabilizer jacks" versus "jack stands" since their purpose is to stabilize the trailer while occupied, as mentioned.

We just had a rain storm blow through which gave us a much needed 1.25 inches of rain. I left the camper in the up position so I could check for leaks after the storm and I'm happy to report no leaks were noted.

We get some pretty gusty winds up here in the mountains and mine is stored outside with the stabilizer jacks up. However, since this is my first year owning it, I'll let you know if it blows away! :D
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As a word of warning - mine leaked inside the walls.
 
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