I don't understand why it was reading 12.6 and the inside panel said fully charged and then it read 12.9 and said it was half charged on the panel. Did you mean , maybe, 12.09? Any chance the charger/converter was still plugged in when you read it the first time?

At any rate- the only reliable way to check battery levels is with a hydrometer in each cell which, with interstates I believe, you can do because they are not sealed.

Also- once you charge it over night it should rest a while ( 3 hours to over night depending on who you talk to...) to get an accurate voltage reading.

Rick

__________________
2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

If you checked the battery immediately after removing it from charge you can get a high voltage reading. Leave it sit for few hours or overnight to allow it to level out then check the voltage. Make sure it is not connected to anything for this. Also, you can check the specific gravity of the acid to see if is up to spec and if all the cells read close to each other. Beyond that, having a load test done like what Interstate would tells allot about the state of a battery.

Did you charge the battery with the trailer's converter/charger or with an external charger? Some of the converter/chargers aren't the best for the batteries.

Here is some good reading about batteries, probably more than you want to know but it is very informative.

Deep Cycle Battery FAQ

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)

Rick beat me to some of what I said, but at least we are both on the same track.

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Went back and looked at your pictures and, sure enough, it does not look like you have room in the battery compartment for another battery. I am a new hi-lo guy myself, but mine (2001) has the battery box and hydraulic cylinder located in a box behind the propane tanks. Be interesting if you could find a "second hand" box from a later model and mount it there and then run cables under the trailer and into the box where your battery is---and then you would have a two battery set-up like many the rest of us.

I've been struggling with battery issues myself and doing a bit of reading----so the info I gave in the last post was the result of all that. Good luck

Rick

__________________
2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

I was always under the impression that the only true way to test a battery was with a load tester... Just testing it with a V/O meter / panel just means it is charged, doesn't mean it will actually "hold" a charge...

Try taking it to pepboys, autozone, orielly's... and see what they say... They all will do it free of charge. It may also be the reason that interstate says "bad" and your V/O meter / panel says it's good... The testers at the stores puts a load on it to see if it will "hold" a charge...

PapaP,Welcome to the forum. Looks like a nice unit in the pictures you posted. The forum members are really good with answering questions.So ask away.

I have been reading this and other forums about converting to 2 x 6v batteries and all it really did is bring up more questions...

Like;

1) When people changed their battery to a deep cycle did they buy it off the shelf at (insert store name here)... because that is just a glorified car battery...

2) Interstate batteries are a very good battery - but most "deep cycle" are just glorified car batteries... even Interstates.

3) Did you even consider a good "real" 12v deep cycle battery? Like Deka, Fullriver or others?

I really think a "real" deep cycle battery, not a store bought one, would have made a ton of difference... Battery technology changes almost year to year, so the batteries you buy today are not going to be the same battery you buy 5 years from now or 5 years ago.

I have a concern with the 2 x 6v batteries - like you are out in the boonies and 1 fails... you are stuck. I know, how often to they fail? But lets say 1 does... You are up the proverbial stream...

If you are planning on buying a "deep cycle" battery... please DO NOT buy one from a retail store... they are not what you want.

BTW - most golf carts that are coming out now are using 12v batteries instead of 6v... Just FYI

I am puzzled by what you say about "off the shelf" deep cycle batteries are glorified car batteries. If so, there is allot of fraud going on out there. I can't believe that. I can believe that there are different levels of quality in batteries. If I am shopping for a deep cycle battery I would buy one that is well known and sold everywhere because of warranty issues. If I buy an Interstate battery in PA and have a problem in FL I can find a dealer quite easily for a replacement. I have had Interstate deep cycle batteries for many years and have never had a problem with them. IMO

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Davidc, etal,

Our unit came with a Wal-Mart Deep cycle and I have seen these fail so often that I bought a 2nd one at Costco and installed battery isolators on them. The Costco battery [can't remember the brand] had a 100 month warranty and cost much more than the Wal-Mart battery but I think will be more reliable. I bought a high-dollar sealed deep cycle battery for a previous 5th wheel and was very disappointed in its performance. It would not hold a charge so they replaced it and the replacement battery wasn't any better. I would charge it with a battery charger and it still did not produce the capacity they promised. The newer 5th wheels have so much electronics on them they were definitely built for a 50 amp service in an RV park and not boon docking. I always installed battery isolators so that I wouldn't be without battery power in an emergency.

If I were to go dry-docking I would take along our emergency generator, especially for an extended stay.

Jerry Curtis
2406 T

PappaP,
We have geared up our Hi Lo to dry camp (for those times the wife will let me camp without her having electricity).
Our used camper came with a solar pannel that stopped working but I didn't repair it. Most dry camping we do is in the shade and I don't think I could detect much advantage to the solar pannel anyway. But some may say it's works well, I just didn't ever see any advantage of it.
We did add a second battery as the battery box in our Hi Lo was big enough to let me put one in there. I bought two Wal Mart batteries that were the same size that was in the camper and would fit in the box. So we run on two batteries all the time. Went with Walmart figuring I can all ways find a Walmart should I need one. Bought them in 2007 and they still seem to be working fine.
In our camper we have cigarette receptable where the TV can hook in to run on DC (least I assume that's what it's for). I bought a plug that fit that type receptable and has two wires coming from it. While camping I can check the battery level by connecting a Volt meter to those wires. That keeps me posted on battery strength while camping.
I don't own a small generator so when my batteries get low I connect the seven pin plug up to my truck and let it run a while to boost the batteries. Works for me. I guess some would say that's too expensive but we don't do enough dry camping to justify a generator.
I have also bought LED bulbs that will fit the light fixtures in the camper. They can be expensive so I have them spread around the camper where most needed. One in the bed room, one in the bathroom, one over the kitchen sink/stove. Some light fixtures use two regular bulbs. So when we dry camp I remove one of them.......to save from it coming on.
Like someone has posted there are many ways you will learn to conserve. Some have already given you some good advice. I do find that any use of the battery drains it very quickly. So best advice is to monitor and conserve battery use.
Hope this helps and welcome to the forum.
God Bless
Papa

The 2 articles you provide links to both say that "Deep Cycle Marine" are most likely just a Hybrid battery;

Quoted from the first link -"Marine batteries are usually a "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries" = "Glorified Car Battery".

So when you go and buy a "Deep Cycle/Marine" battery off the shelf, you are for lack of better terms and without cutting the thing apart, buying a "Glorified" car battery...

You either want a "Deep Cycle" or a "Starting" battery, but you really are NOT looking for one that does both...

The Devil is in the terminology; (Quotes from the first article)

Starting - (sometimes called SLI, for starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are commonly used to start and run engines.

Deep Cycle - batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates.

Marine - batteries are usually a "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, though a few (Rolls-Surrette($1,190.29 AND WEIGHS IN AT 272LBS and won't fit in the battery box) and Concorde ($253 for their "group 24"), for example) are true deep cycle.

So when you Combine "Deep Cycle" and "Marine", like is the case with a lot of "off-the-shelf" batteries I have seen in stores, you are most likely just getting some kind of Hybrid.

This also goes to "you get what you pay for" - I can buy a "off-the-shelf" deep cycle/marine battery for about $100, a true deep cycle (Deka for example) is going to cost me a little over $200... but the Deka is a "true" deep cycle battery... When they combined the words "Deep Cycle" and "Marine" what they should have done was slap a label on it that said "Glorified Car Battery" and it would havve been a lot closer to the truth.

I have been looking into solar panels for some time, I was planning on building a "off-grid" house for about 5 years now and have read many articles on panels, batteries and controllers. One thing pretty much rings true from what I have seen; If a battery has a CCA = (Cold Cranking Amps) rating on the label, it's some kind of car battery... The term "CCA" is not used in a solar apllication...

And RichR I am not trying to beat up on Interstate batteries, both my vehicles have them in it and the last 2 that I have sold had Interstate batteries in them, the last truck I owned had a 6 year old Interstate battery when I bought it and I owned it for 5 more years... Yup 11 years on a 72 month battery... just beware of the terminology.

A Deep Cycle/Marine battery is a "Marine" battery designed to be "Deep Cycled" just not to the extent of a true Deep Cycle battery.

That is a good report and food for thought for all of us.

In other words, you had better be careful when you are looking for a battery. Not all labels are created equal. And you get what you pay for, or do you?

__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Yeah I was a little baffled about the voltage and dummy panel reading's as well. Probably the dummy panel is not accurate.

I had seen your links in another posting before and read through the first part which was quite overwhelming but it did make some good points. It looks like I am going to have to do another test, like charging the battery up overnight with my shore power AC line connnected and then disconnect the battery and let it sit for a few hours and then test. Also I had thought of the hydrometer method before just hadn't got to that point yet. I did buy a cheap battery charger/float tender from harbor freight. But I am not sure this is really that reliable after reading some of the reviews on the tool. Here's a link for it

Automatic Battery Charger - 12V

I had a coupon as well so only paid $6 for it, I thought it might be useful for the winter months to remove the battery after it is fully charged and keep it charged in the garage at home.

I have to agree with Davidc on the interstate batteries. I have gotten much more use and performance from them than just about any other. I just replaced a set that I got a little over three years use from them on our F250 7.3 L Diesel. I have had these for nearly three years and expect to get at least three more.

One good thing about the Wal-Mart batteries, according to my neighbor.. they very seldom ever make it through their warranty period, but he said he just takes them back and they give him credit for that shortcoming off a new battery. He said he eventually will realize a free battery out of it. LOL.

Jerry Curtis
2406 T

And to answer the other couple of replys, I wish I could add the second battery option at the tongue of the trailer as I have seen on some of the other trailers here, but that is where the spare tire is located.

And for now I will probably be going the route of many of the others suggestions of using the least amount of power possible when trying to go drycamping. Like using flashlights and limit the amount of lights used in the trailer at night, etc...

Probably will have to just do a test dry camp, like maybe one or two nights and just see how it goes, I know myself and son will be fine as we were used to tent camping, but the wife likes to have some luxurys, if you know what I mean? I can't really blame her though as I enjoy them just as much now, and was one of the reasons for getting the HiLo as well

Thanks everyone of you for your responses,

PappaP

I recommend a second battery to assure you will have power when you need it. See my post (kengsr) at http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f17/...06/index2.html for my second battery installation. I also changed all interior light bulbs to LED bulbs I got off ebay for about $4 to $6 each as I recall. This helps a lot on the one week dry camping trips we do at a NH state park.

That's the same float charger I use. I bought four of them, with a coupon, for $4.99 each. I cut the alligator clips off and put terminal lugs on and use the wing nuts on the battery to hold them in place. I haven't had any problems with it yet.

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Pappap, You could put the spare tire in your vehicle. We do this and then you would have room for two batteries on the A frame. We don't dry camp that much so we have only one battery and one solar panel that provides a trickle charge. If you dry camp and your battery is low you can hook up your trailer and run your vehicle for 1/2 hr. It is good to know this emergency measure. If you do a lot of dry camping then later on you might consider a generator.I have fun spending other peoples money lol.

Yeah it is always more fun spending other peoples money!

Would definitely like to have the gen option, but that will probably be later down the road, and like you said, in the mean time I could always use my Tv for a generator.

Just to follow up. I did another test a few weeks ago and after charging my battery overnight, I had disconnected it from the HiLo and was going to let it sit for a few hours and then test the voltage, well by the time I got the battery in the garage and checked it with a volt meter to see the starting point it was already reading around 11.5v and within the next 10 mins or so it was completely dead at 10.5v. So needless to say I ended up buying a new battery, and right now I am just pulling it out of the trailer and keeping in my garage, since I haven't figured out if my solar panel is working correctly yet.

Anyways, I had a question for RCREYES, with that float charger do you keep that connected all the time?

__________________
PappaP
Former Owner of a 1999 Classic HiLo Model 29B