Swapping out lights for LED's

catsjazz

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2013
Messages
10
I am swapping out all the lights, dome and candle stick lights on my 1992 classic HiLo. We do a lot of dry (boon-docking) camping and this will help. We usually have about 3 or 4 battery operated lanterns we use. For the candle stick lights I got the 1142 these have 2 bumps on the bottom. (specifically GRV Ba15d 1076 1142 High Power Car LED Bulb 13-5050SMD DC 12V Warm White) and for the dome lights I got the 1156 these have 1 bump on the bottom (specifically 3-SMD 1156 S25 Ba15s 12V Backup Signal Blinker Tail Light LED bulbs P21W 7506- White).
The important numbers are 1142 and 1156.
 

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LEDs flicker and have been linked to headaches. Keep at least one incandescent light burning. Use solar panels in the day to recharrge batteries.
 
I use part # 5050107 from amazon kelvin is 3000 for warm white and lumins is close to 300 for brightness on my interior lights
 
Maybe I cant see but I never seen FLICKER in LED..and i got 20/20...but heard of such..I have noticed it in Florescent lights though..no bother me

I have 99% LEDs in my Home/ garage and 2 Campers..Never had a complaint from family or friends..

Said 99% just for wiggle room in case forgot something

Maybe its 60Hz causing on 110AC ....should not be on 12vDC Just my thoughts
 
LEDs flicker and have been linked to headaches. Keep at least one incandescent light burning. Use solar panels in the day to recharrge batteries.

Marininn - I've never seen any flicker in LEDs. I think you MAY be referring to the flicker in compact fluorescent lights or other fluorescent light types.

LEDs come in most all color temperatures now. I've found ones in the "bright light" (3000K) range are what I like for reading. They're not too yellow, but are not "blue", which is hard on the eyes after a while. Daylight colors (around 5000K) are good for heavy work areas such as a kitchen or shop.

I've replaced all the interior lighting in my trailer with LEDs. I've also replaced ALMOST all of the lights in my home with LEDs too and, my shop is all LED lit now. As is obvious, I love the quality of light that LEDs provide and I appreciate their low power requirements.

- Jack
 
The only flicker I have noticed is from the LED floods in our home range hood. It was designed for incandescent bulbs and can be switched for either high or low intensity. It uses a diode in the circuit that changes 60 Hz AC to 30HZ pulsating DC. That works fine with incandescent bulbs but not with LED bulbs. The incandescent bulbs need to heat up to produce a full light level and they can't do it fast enough with pulsating DC to reach full brilliance but rather only reach a dimmed level. The LED can reach full brilliance almost instantly so at 60 Hz AC it will light an appear at its brightest. When switched to the dim setting it will light at the 30 Hz rate and will produce a rapid flicker. The light produced appears at a lower level but it may be our eyesight being tricked.

There should be no flicker with an LED bulb operating on DC.

I think I said that right.
 
I've replaced all the interior lighting in my trailer with LEDs.
- Jack

I have as well - the old 12v incandescent bulbs got so hot it really bothered me thinking about all the power from the battery needed just to keep them on.

I’ve had good luck so far with these: (Warm White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XF4C9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yALlCb93DFKWH

They seem to be a nice non-blue color that works well in the inside factory fixtures.
 
LEDs are DC friendly and they won't flicker as long as they are connected to a real DC supply not a pulsating DC one. As long as the batteries are connected or the capacitors in your Charger converter are working you will not have flicker. if you are seeing a noticeable flicker than its probably do to a defect or an early demise of one or more of the LEDs. I have had all LED auto type bulbs in my trailer since 2013. some of the originals had the filer problem but then those individual flickering squares died all together. You buy the single bottom or two button types like the original bulbs. The bottom is solder and you can try soldering them together so they are similar to the single button type if you bought the wrong ones. The original reason for two buttons was so a single bulb could be both a brake/turn signal light and a running light by having two filaments. With filaments battery time was measured in hours while with LED's its measured in days. It's no fun having to use the truck to charge the trailer batteries in the middle of the night because you used up to much battery time with fulfillment bulbs and the propane detector is going off.
 
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I wanted to replace the incandescents with LEDs too. I also wanted to replace the old clip on lampshades. I'm wondering what or how people are doing for lampshades. I checked Amazon for LED clip on shades, no luck.
 
Lamp shades

Years ago I ordered them from HiLo in Ohio and payed a bloody nose. After that I saw them at Hobby Lobby and another craft store. Can't remember the name. Could have been Michaels. Hope this helps. If need be send me a PM and I could purchase them for you and mail them to you.
 
Thanks Sam. We have Hobby Lobby out west also. I was wondering if these clipon lampshades fit the LED bulbs and if it's ok to clip onto the LED bulb without shorting them out.
 
Lamp Shades and LED bulbs.

I don't have LED bulbs so am unable to answer your question. We probably never converted as we don't ever boondock.
 
I just switched over to led’s. I posted a video in my YouTube channel gps fisherman. I believe I put the Part number is in the video
Ordered from amazon they worked great
 
I replaced every internal fixture, single and double bulb, with nearly identical equivalent permanent sealed fixture from Amazon. Used same screw holes for the most part even! About $8 per single, $12 per double. I replaced the 2 singles in the bathroom with doubles. These fixtures are 1/4" lower profile- hug the ceiling- than originals, too, and I replaced the midship lampshade lights with singles which fit perfectly. If i were smarter I'd have pics already saved to post. These fixtures have all the LED "chips", called SMD's, pointing downward so the light is excellent, not diffused or redirected like the cylindrically shaped 1156 bulbs are. Took a bit of research to find the correct "color temperature" (Kelvin) so as to not be too yellow (3000K range or lower) or too start white with blue tint (5500K or higher). Description on Amazon here: "Lumitronics RV Double 12V LED Dome Light with 3-Way Switch and Removable Lenses". I also installed 2 of these on the underside of the dropdown sleeping bunk to illuminate the dining table and booths (I swapped the front jacknife sofa sleeper and the entire dinette locations):" Facon 8-Inch LED RV Panel Light, Dimmable Surface Mount with Touch On/Off Switch, 2 Color Temp 3000K / 4000K, 12V DC Interior Light for RV Motorhome Camper Caravan Marine". All took literally 5 minutes per fixture to swap with screwgun and wire nuts!
 

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