WMJ,
Back in the days when hitch blocks were welded, every time I changed TVs, the hitch specialist would weld it so that when the ball was in the socket, trailer and car would both be level. Since then, with adjustable blocks, I've continued doing the same thing. Using adjustable hitch blocks, it may not be as perfect as when they were custom welded, but its close enough.
In other words, when the trailer is hooked up, WD torsion bars properly installed, both the TV and trailer should be level to the ground.
One more thing, if your hitch block came with spacer shims to put between the shank and block portions, use them if there is any gap! When we bought our latest trailer, the mechanic for the dealer in Colorado (K & C) told me they weren't necessary (I don't know if he was lazy or lousy). I insisted he put them in because without, as he was tightening the Block onto the shank, I could actually see the block sides bending into the shank. Not a good thing for cast steel under stress ...plus the connection wobbled. The properly installed shims eliminated both of those issues. HAH, even after that the "mechanic" wasn't convinced the shims were needed (hurt pride). He didn't have an answer when I asked him why he thought the OEM had included them in the box with the other hitch components!
Jim
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1967 17' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1967-1969)
1969 19' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1969-2011)
2004 27' Hi-Lo TowLite (2010-present)
2015 Chevy Tahoe LTZ
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