Breakaway Cable

Luckydog671

Luckydog671

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Messages
817
Location
Tehachapi Mountains, Calif.
I'm a little confused on the breakaway cable. How do ya'll attach it? The previous owner has it wrapped through the links of one of the safety chains. Not sure how he actually attached it to the TV.

Also, is it a good idea to test the switch before each trip? What is the best way to test it?

Thanks,
 
Luckydog671 said:
I'm a little confused on the breakaway cable. How do ya'll attach it? The previous owner has it wrapped through the links of one of the safety chains. Not sure how he actually attached it to the TV.

Also, is it a good idea to test the switch before each trip? What is the best way to test it?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

I hook mine up to the hitch pin that goes through the receiver. As long as it's connected where it will do its job.... Best way to test it is to pull the plunger out and try to drive forward a bit. The brakes should be locked. Make sure you put the plunger back in because it will draw down your battery. I check mine every time I hook up. Never can be too safe.
 
Well, I went out and tried to test it. I couldn't do a proper test because the trailer isn't hooked up but was thinking I would at least hear a buzz from the electric brakes. The pin was in there pretty tight- you really need a good tug to get it out! I didn't hear any buzz from the brakes so not sure what that means. The switch is powered off the house batteries, are they not?

Thanks,
 
RCREYES said:
Powered by the trailer battery.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought.

When I plug the trailer into the TV and apply the vehicle brakes, I can hear a buzz from the trailer brakes. I guess that's what I was expecting to hear when I pulled the pin out from the breakaway switch but didn't. However, I put a voltmeter on the trailer batteries before and after pulling the pin and noticed a voltage drop after pulling the pin out so something changed.

Guess I just need to hitch her up and do a real test!

Thanks,
 
Do not pull that pin with the brake controller hooked up or there is a good possibility you will be buying a new controller!!
 
garyk52 said:
Do not pull that pin with the brake controller hooked up or there is a good possibility you will be buying a new controller!!
Click to expand...

Hi Gary,

Interesting! When I pulled out the pin (several times) the trailer power cord was not plugged into the TV so there should be no possibility of affecting the brake controller.

I'm a newbie doing the towing thing - why would pulling out the pin (if hooked up) affect the brake controller?

Thanks,
 
It can send power from the trailer battery back through the brake wire to the controller and that's not good.
 
Luckydog671 said:
So when testing the switch I should not have the trailer cord plugged into the TV. Better add that to my evolving checklist!:eek:

Thanks,
Click to expand...

That's for sure. I think if they would put a diode in the brake wire that wouldn't happen.
 
...but a diode will lower the voltage another .7 volts; the last thing I would want.

My opinion...bad design if any of these controllers are not optically isolated from damage. Shame on them.

Rick
 
Testing electric brakes

Buzzing in trailer brakes is probably due to brake controller chopping up the DC supply so brake power can be varied by the accelerometer in the controller.

Application of brakes by emergency breakaway switch should supply full DC power from the trailers power or a separate battery for breaks only. You may hear only a single clicking noise when testing.

You want to attach it to the tow vehicle as near to the center of the vehicles rear as possible and to a part that could not accidently come loose or be pulled out like the receiver pin or safety chains and then fail to activate or accidently activate.

By keeping it centered it is less likely to be accidently pulled out by taking a sharp corner, backing up, roadway trash or coming in contact with the road surface
 
obrienkims said:
Buzzing in trailer brakes is probably due to brake controller chopping up the DC supply so brake power can be varied by the accelerometer in the controller.

Application of brakes by emergency breakaway switch should supply full DC power from the trailers power or a separate battery for breaks only. You may hear only a single clicking noise when testing.

You want to attach it to the tow vehicle as near to the center of the vehicles rear as possible and to a part that could not accidently come loose or be pulled out like the receiver pin or safety chains and then fail to activate or accidently activate.

By keeping it centered it is less likely to be accidently pulled out by taking a sharp corner, backing up, roadway trash or coming in contact with the road surface
Click to expand...

Good info- thanks!
 
slider said:
...but a diode will lower the voltage another .7 volts; the last thing I would want.

My opinion...bad design if any of these controllers are not optically isolated from damage. Shame on them.

Rick
Click to expand...

Good thought
 
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