New to me 1997 22 ft Hi-Lo.
It has the WD parts on the tongue and I have the trunnion bars, but no receiver (vehicle side) or tool.
This one has the "T" shape trunnion bars and flat curve on the other end.
see pics.
I'm wondering if anyone else has this model with hopefully the exact WD parts that are on mine.
I need to source the parts I need, although it does not seem I really have to have it on my 2500.
I think these pics are what would work, but Ive never done this…
thanks

Contact these folks and they should be able to help you out. If these are the only pieces you have, looks like you will need the brackets that go one tongue that the bars with chains attach to, the hitch that one piece gets bolted to. Hope that gets you started.

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Wei...tribution.aspx

__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

I found a used complete system on craigslist. It uses the similar bars, and is interchangeable with what is on the trailer, I will try it out soon.
It is missing the little safety retainer clip on one side. Wonder if this is a big issue, seems like it is secure in the cups.
thanks

Keep in mind that the trunnion bars come in different tongue weight tensions.

__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

I am able to keep the trunnion bars that came with the camper and just use the purchased shank. Though the one I just bought has very exactly similar size and shape trunnion bars, so maybe the same spring. He towed big auto trailers , but could not tell me the rating on my purchase.

What's the worse that can happen? Will the spring just be too strong and give a harsh ride?

WD hitches are basically a big spring and having bars that are too stiff, just like any other over sized spring just doesn't allow enough movement to be effective. Your bars are not GROSSLY over sized and will not doubt work but may be a little tough to get the fine tuning needed in some circumstances. Most likely result will be a little stiffer ride so you may feel the jars and bumps a little more than if you had 700 lb. bars. Give it a try and if you aren't happy with the ride quality go to a lighter bar. Lengthening the chain is not a good correction in my opinion since that will also change the amount of weight you're shifting with the hitch and defeats the purpose of the WD system.

__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

I'm going to restate differently what Ruben said, "Lengthening the chain will be the same as not having a WDH". If you lengthen the chain, you return more tongue weight to the rear axle. The whole purpose of the WDH is to shift about half of the tongue weight to the front axle of your tow vehicle. Ideally, you want to add an equal amount of weight to each of the axles.

- Jack

__________________
Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew

Thanks, I will go with it.
Chain length is directly proportionate to spring tension. Lengthening the chain would reduce the spring tension, but not to zero unless you just had the chain drooped over it. Shorter and more tension (not to mention being too short and binding) I dont know, maybe one link more and it droops….
That was not my plan either.