Proper Hitching

Hi all,

I am trying to develop a step-by-step procedure to properly hitch up my Tahoe to the 2407T but I'm still struggling on a couple of points so want to make sure I do it correctly. This will enable DW to hitch up the trailer in case I have a heart attack or something. Although we towed the trailer home (about 5 hours away) after purchasing and didn't experience any sway problems, I'm sure it wasn't hooked up right as the seller wasn't much more experienced than I (zero)! We did get a little hopping but that may have been due to our wonderful California freeways!

Now, in the trailer manual it states that the coupler height is 26 1/2" for my model. I'm assuming that means with the trailer level? I haven't been able to verify that measurement due to the driveway not being level. The Tahoe has a hitch ball height of 23 1/2" when parked in the level garage so I'm thinking I need to raise the ball 3" on the adjustable shank. It appears by moving the ball mount up two holes to the top hole I can achieve the 3 inches.

Hitch is an older EAZ Lift brand weight distributing hitch with a single friction type sway control bar. I'm also not clear on the proper way to set the sway bar.

So, assuming I'm correct about needing to raise the ball 3", here is my question: After loading up the Tahoe and trailer for a trip what are the next steps I need to do to do a proper hitch up?

Thanks,

Greg, I could be wrong, but I think you need to raise the ball a bit more than 3". This is due to the drop you'll get when the weight of the trailer hitch is on it. I'd guess you need to have the top of the ball about 3/4" higher than the height of the trailer coupler (measured with the trailer level and on level ground). Then, after attaching the trailer hitch to the ball, you lift the back of the tow vehicle using chains or spring arms or whatever you have so that the trailer is again nearly level and the compression on the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle is nearly identical. (That distributes the weight evenly over both axles of the tow vehicle).

The additional height is based on your tow vehicle's suspension. If it's heavy duty, like an F-250 or 2500, you'd raise the ball less, maybe 3/8".

An easy way to increase the lift of the WDH is to use the tongue jack to lift both the trailer tongue AND the rear of the tow vehicle once the two are connected. This gives you some "slack" to shorten the chains or attach the spring bars. Then, when you retract the jack, everything settles, hopefully in the proper position.

I can't help you with the sway bar, my hitch has anti-sway properties built into the spring bars. You might find a manual for your equipment online.

Hope I'm making sense here. Once you do it the way I've described, you'll understand.

- Jack

Hitch

Greg,
It's been a while since I adjusted my ball height and I can't remember all the details. I will suggest to you that you Google your hitch and find adjusting information.
I did that and it told me exactly how to adjust so the trailer will travel level when connected. I remember had to do with the weight of the trailer put on the hitch and a fraction of an inch for each 100 lbs of the weigh.
I took my truck and Hi Lo to a level parking lot where I was able to adjust the height of the ball until the trailer was level with the weight distribution hitch installed.
Look online there is a lot of info. You may even find a Youtube video showing how to do it.
God Bless
Papa

This is simply a little trial and error on a parking lot or level driveway. And keep in mind that you only need to get this in the ballpark. Eighths of an inch to that trailer will make no difference.

Luckydog671 go to this site and watch the video even thou it's for a ford van they go through all the steps on setting up a hitch. Weight Distribution and Sway Control Installation Video | etrailer.com They don't say at the beginning of the video but you do need the trailer level before you begin measurements.

garyk52 said:

Luckydog671 go to this site and watch the video even thou it's for a ford van they go through all the steps on setting up a hitch. Weight Distribution and Sway Control Installation Video | etrailer.com They don't say at the beginning of the video but you do need the trailer level before you begin measurements.

Click to expand...

I don't know if the video says, but you should have your trailer and tow vehicle loaded to what you would normally carry before adjusting the hitch.

Having a trouble with trailer latching properly ?

Need some knowledge. Having trouble when I let trailer down on ball, then I can't get the latch to snap close, haul 300 miles today just depended on sway bars, lubed , but still having trouble, sometimes bam goes on easy next time , can't get to latch, any help would be greatly appreciated.

George,

Hopefully you are using the right size ball for your trailer. I had this happen to me a few times (not a wrong size ball). All I did was to pull forward about an inch and the latch would snap down ok. Make sure the latch is lubed well with WD40 or PB Blaster. Hope this helps.

Bob

George, like Bob said, the problem with not getting the latch closed is usually due to you having your tow ball in the back side of the tongue socket.

Once you are backed up under the socket, lower the trailer until the lifting jack is completely free of the ground (about an inch above it). Then, if you can't get the latch in, move the tow vehicle forward about an inch. Just releasing the brake with the transmission in drive on level ground should do it. You should hear or feel a "clunk" as the ball moves up to the front of the socket. Put your tow vehicle back in park and you should be able to close and lock the latch. Then, you can use the lifting jack to raise the rear of the tow vehicle enough so that you can easily attach the WDH bars.

I think you have the correct sized ball, since it sometimes goes on. You are either in the back side of the socket, or the trailer tongue is not being supported only by the ball, and it is not all the way down on the ball (lifting jack must be off the ground).

I WOULD NOT tow with the tongue latch open, under any circumstances!

- Jack

Latch

thank you both, I got home ,thought I would have hell getting off the ball, looked a latch, duh it was latched, just being a newbie to hi lo , I over react to things that are easy and I make them hard, it went on so smooth, It was down and latched, didn't realize until I raised and pulled back to the *** high position, told the wife I would learn this one day , maybe ? thanks for the help, maybe my dumb *** will figure it out leaving again Friday for Lake Proctor Tx, wish me luck I need it , older I get the hard I make things sometimes LOL , THANKS again, George. 1 more ? what about a microwave in the hi lo , do they have to be special and not pull more than 20 or 30 amps ?

I THINK, George, that the A/C circuits in the HiLo are all fused for 15 Amps. You should try to find a small microwave if you're going to use one. I seem to recall that mine (which is built-in) is about 7.5 Amps.

You'd overload the converter if you had a larger microwave on along with the refrigerator and maybe the air conditioner.

- Jack

You will do fine with the microwave, especially if you are plugged into 30 amp service. The converter has nothing to do with the AC circuits. It is there to supply 12 volts for the lights,etc. and to charge the battery.

Don't forget to use a locking pin in the hitch so it doesn't unlatch. I'm glad you got it latched down.

RichR said:

You will do fine with the microwave, especially if you are plugged into 30 amp service. The converter has nothing to do with the AC circuits. It is there to supply 12 volts for the lights,etc. and to charge the battery.

Don't forget to use a locking pin in the hitch so it doesn't unlatch. I'm glad you got it latched down.

Click to expand...

Well duh! I should have remembered that! Still, the trailers are setup for 30 Amps max, and I believe you can exceed that draw, especially with the Air Conditioning on and the refrigerator drawing A/C power.

I recall having to reset a circuit breaker somewhere (possibly on the camp plug) when we were camped in a full hookup site in Camp Verde one summer. The air conditioner was running and it tripped the circuit breaker twice.

- Jack

JackandJanet said:

Well duh! I should have remembered that! Still, the trailers are setup for 30 Amps max, and I believe you can exceed that draw, especially with the Air Conditioning on and the refrigerator drawing A/C power.

I recall having to reset a circuit breaker somewhere (possibly on the camp plug) when we were camped in a full hookup site in Camp Verde one summer. The air conditioner was running and it tripped the circuit breaker twice.

- Jack

Click to expand...

Actually the converter does play into the overall current use, well duh for me! If you have a bunch of lights on that amperage adds up pretty fast. It's a good reason to switch to LED lighting.

RV bumper hitch

Has any one hooked up a towing hitch and ball on the back of their hilo trailer to pull a boat behind the trailer. I would like to but the hitches I see for installing on the bumper requires the bumper to be completely open and on the hilo when you lower the trailer it sits on the bumper.

My answer to that would be, if the Hi-Lo was designed to pull a trailer it would be designed and built with a 2" receiver on back. That question comes up on different forums with the same basic answer, it's not a good idea.

No Chains???

I have been looking on here and this site is a great wealth to me being a newbie, but my 1973 Hi-Lo model 2073, does not have chains in the front to hook into the TV. I was surprised to see this knowing the have weight is 3250 lbs unloaded. I figured it is a big safety hazard not to have them.

Has anyone else owning a 70's model ever noticed not have chains?

I plan on installing some on mine for safety and piece of mind.

Thanks!!

Kycabledog57 said:

I have been looking on here and this site is a great wealth to me being a newbie, but my 1973 Hi-Lo model 2073, does not have chains in the front to hook into the TV. I was surprised to see this knowing the have weight is 3250 lbs unloaded. I figured it is a big safety hazard not to have them.

Has anyone else owning a 70's model ever noticed not have chains?

I plan on installing some on mine for safety and piece of mind.

Thanks!!

Click to expand...

In Pennsylvania and many other states, if not all, it is illegal to not have safety chains. Get a proper set suited to the weight of your trailer and have them properly attached. They come in different weights and lengths. http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-sf-Trailer_Coupler-pt-Accessories-sz-Safety_Chain-pc-Safety_Chain_Parts.aspx
Don't forget to cross them when hitched to the TV.

COLLINGWOOD said:

Has any one hooked up a towing hitch and ball on the back of their hilo trailer to pull a boat behind the trailer. I would like to but the hitches I see for installing on the bumper requires the bumper to be completely open and on the hilo when you lower the trailer it sits on the bumper.

Click to expand...

I put a hitch on the back of mine but haven't used it yet. I have a 93 Towlite and the box steel of the bumper and supports isn't thin and fully welded. Mine also has a completely free bumper hanging back there in the breeze, my camper comes down and rests on the frame rails not the bumper. I planned on towing a small single Waveraider or small motorcycle, both would be under 1000# total including the trailer with 150# of tongue weight. I added a box to the back and put more then 150# back there and it hasn't reduced the tongue weight enough to affect handling. Heck I had 150# in the box and then climbed my 240# self in there and jumped up and down. When towing I plan on keeping the box part empty. We just got back from a 1500 mile trip with the box full of stuff on some very rough roads and it did pretty good. I did get some swaying at 70 mph with dips but I only have a standard hitch and din't want to go faster then 65 anyway. I plan on adding a WD hitch with sway control and next time will keep the heaviest stuff out of the rear closet and rear box.

I am picking up a 17T on the way to Texas. I asked the seller how high the ball was on his tow vehicle. He said it was 23 inches. The spec on the 17T says the trailer hitch height is 26 inches. I bought a used Reese load equalizer hitch. My 2007 Nissan Frontier came with towing package. The ball height of the Reese hitch before i raised it was 18 inches. I was able to get it up to 23 1/2 with it in the top holes. I also have ordered a Curt 2 5/16 ball with a 2 inch shank rise which should bring my ball height to 25 1/2 inches. That looks like all I can get out of it. I think I can still adjust the tension bars and the sway control. Do you think this will work?