For the partitions, I used moulding similar to that shown to make a frame. Fabric was sandwiched between the two pieces. I used "square" reinforcing hardware to secure the 4 corners.

Hinges were used to attach the completed frames to the vertical stringers that ran downward from the ceiling yoke. Originally, these were 1x2 woodgrain, but I replaced them with 1x4's painted white in my installation.

When opened-out, the partition frames are held in place by standard kitchen cabinet spring latches.

I used the old rolled-up center piece to complete the partition wall. A simple bungee loop was used to hold the rolled-up center partition in place.

(Woops... I ran out of photo-attachments. To be continued in next post.)

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To keep the partitions in a closed position when not in use, I devised this roof-mounted latching mechanism. It's a wooden wedge with a piece of FRP plastic that was leftover from the ceiling replacement. It automatically latches when you press the partition up against the wall. To open the partitions, just push up on the latch and swing out the hinged partition frame.

For trailering (AND BEFORE LOWERING!!!) I used a simple bungee cord hold-back on the lower corners.

When I was remodeling my camper, I found bungees were a great way to hold things in place. I used 1/4" nylon electrical cable stays to mount them where needed.

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What a beautiful job! Thanks for the pictures...we just bought a 1988 HiLo today. My daughter and I are going to do some repairs on it...looking at your finished project really is inspiring!

Damargirl,Welcome to the forum. What length is your HiLo? Classic or Towlite? Post some interior and exterior pictures and let us know what repairs you need to do. We love questions -so ask away.

RE: Partitions

Thank you Mike for taking the time to pass on all the information. Your descriptions are great and are going to prove very helpful. Now that spring has finally sprung we are starting some of our projects and this one is on the top of our list.

Thanks again