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08-10-2012, 09:13 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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I got my NEW (to me) 1990 Hi-Lo Voyager 24'
OK well we got the RV ! Hi-Lo Voyager supposed t be 24ft but looks longer than that. But that's what they registered as. I will Take pictures tomorrow and Post them so if you all see anything that I need to see to you can tell me. BTW It came almost fully stocked Dished cooking stuff cleaning and a lot of everything else(My dad Left everything in it) Well that is the news for now!
Michael and Anna
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08-11-2012, 12:49 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Quakertown, PA
Posts: 1,074
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Welcome to the forum and the world of Hi-Lo. If you don't already know, a 1990 Hi-Lo framing is square steel tubing. Which is good as the upper half cable anchor points will not pull out. Some years of Hi-Lo Towlite models have all wood framing and if they get water damaged from leaks the wood rots and the cables pull out. Look around the forum there is lots of information. If you need to ask questions, someone will have the answer. Hope your trailer was stored inside when not in use. Check all the seams and reseal any that are cracked. Good luck with the trailer and have fun camping,
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Rich
------------------------------------
(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'
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08-12-2012, 03:59 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 180
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Congratulations and welcome aboard!
If I remember right I think the length measurement doesn't include the tongue portion of the trailer?
Anyways, enjoy your new camper.
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PappaP
Former Owner of a 1999 Classic HiLo Model 29B
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08-12-2012, 06:03 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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pictures of my Hi-Lo Voyager 24ft that needs fixing
Here are some pictures before repairs and the state is in now. well a few pics at a time.
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08-12-2012, 06:06 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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Next Set of Picks
Here are the next 5
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08-12-2012, 06:08 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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and the next
Here are the next 5 sorry almost done
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08-12-2012, 06:10 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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and Finally the last 5
Here are the last 5 with a lot of work to be done
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08-12-2012, 10:36 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Far West Texas
Posts: 1,370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PappaP
Congratulations and welcome aboard!
If I remember right I think the length measurement doesn't include the tongue portion of the trailer?
Anyways, enjoy your new camper.
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Hi-Lo's are measured from rear bumper to tip of the tongue.
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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas
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08-13-2012, 12:32 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,225
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1990 HiLo Voyager restoration
Stalphyr, Welcome to the forum. Sorry your HiLo is in such rough shape. I am the owner of a 25ft. 1990 Classic. We also had to do a total tearout of the side walls for water dammage. My advice to you is to tearout the roof and fix first. This will include new paneling on the ceiling interior. Saw staining in the pictures. Look up onder GaryK52--Demolition begins. You will see how he did his roof repair. My roof is shot and at present we are weighing our our options. Bottom line if you are handy this trailer is fixable. Good news is we did upper wall repair and I took pictures and doccumented each step of the way. Pictures by sam TLPX-Photo bucket. Descriptions are in red print. I wouldn't spend a zillion hrs cleaning up as your restoration will produce lots of dust. If you have any questions feel free to ask or pm me. MyHiLo is a carbon copy of yours.
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08-26-2012, 05:22 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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More Pictures as I work when I can work
Well Here is some more pictures as I work I think I ill have to lift the top up to fix the wall it only seems to be Drivers side back near the shower or around the Bottom edges of the Top half of the trailer. Also Found where there is a tear where the awning is connected. My brother moved and remounted in a different spot because it came loose where the mount was. I would say that is an indicator that the wood or what ever is there is Bad. I have not figured out how to roll the canopy out or get the arms to work to set it up, So I can see if it need replacing or cleaning.
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08-26-2012, 05:24 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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More Pictures
Here are more Pictures
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08-26-2012, 05:26 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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Again More pics
More and More
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08-26-2012, 05:29 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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More and More and Hopefully near the end
Almost done any help and Hints WELCOME!!! Reminder Limited income so have to save anyway that I can. We do plan to become Full timers in this camper.
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08-26-2012, 05:32 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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Getting there
Slowly Getting there
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08-26-2012, 05:34 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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The last 3 for now
Here are the last 3
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08-26-2012, 06:48 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 180
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Check out the videos posted here on this link they should help you out on a lot of information. The link to Video 19 should help you with opening the awning.
http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/...-youtube-1233/
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PappaP
Former Owner of a 1999 Classic HiLo Model 29B
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08-26-2012, 07:54 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Berwick. Pa
Posts: 347
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Stalphyr, I feel for you, probably will finish my rebuild job by the beginning of October. That will be a little over 11 months since I started on it. You will find the worst part is getting it cleaned up and ready to repair then it goes quicker.
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Cheers
Garyk52
DW Judy
96 24' Hi-Lo Funchaser, (99 Aliner Sofabed Sold 6/9/18)
06 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access Cab 4X4 36,000 miles and counting
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08-27-2012, 12:11 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,225
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Repairing HiLo
Since you asked for advice,here goes. We were in the same boat with our 1990 25ft. Classic.A little hard for me to tell the extent of your dammage. Take your time and do it once and do it right. If you spend and fix as the funds become available you will be high and dry. Especially if you want to go fulltime in it. The brown paper had to be scraped off the wall with a razor blade in a blade holder. Get off as much as you can. I would determine the condition of your roof 1st. is your roof alum. or rubber. Fix your roof first. Your roof probably needs to be resealed. Does the roof have leaks. Our roof is at the end of its life after 20 yrs. rubber. We just spent 8 hrs patching,lap seal and using lexell caulk. Do yourself a big favor and review what we did in our restoration. It is under 1990 classic restoration. Take the time to also view what we did in photo bucket,1990 classic restoration pictures by SamTLPX-Photo. I would say we spent about $1000.00 for materials. The photobucket pictures have descriptions in red ink. We took the time to doccument so others could benefit and have an easier time of restoration. Hope this helps.
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08-27-2012, 12:41 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,225
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Restoration tips
I reviewed all your pictures again. You defeniately have roof dammage.I would strongly advise you to tear off the roof and rebuild both inside and outside.Gary K would be able to advise you on that. Take all the dishes ect. out and pack away. Next cover the entire floor with cardboard and use duct tape. Also use cardboard to cover all the counter tops and tape in place. We got some cardboard from an appliance store. Remove your upper cabinents so you can work on the ceiling/roof. Get a roll of thicker plastic to cover your couches. See if you can get your roof repaired before winter. We wereable to work inside our trailer from sept. until the first of feb. You would be able to use your furnice provided you have $ for propane. The first week in feb. our restoration was complete. Take pictures of things you remove so you will know where to place them back. Remove the bunk bed. Hope this helps you. I will help you every step of the way.
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08-28-2012, 01:55 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 13
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Question
Sam Thank you for the advice. I will Definitely listen to it!!! for the sidewalls since we are going to live in this trailer Full time once its done. Do you think I should use Fireproof Liquid foam insulation instead of the foam that was in there. Not the same stuff But new foam)? I am looking at the coast for the roof coat and tape to see how much it will cost me here in Arkansas. The rust only appears on the Drivers side back wall shower area All the metal from the other areas including the roof look clean and shiny? I think the water came in from the Broken roof vent or My Dad and his Showers since he is Large man and does nto know how to take Navy showers or Japanese style baths. But so far it sees the tube that runs around the lower part of the Upper section seems to be where the water came from every where else. You can see day light in alot areas there. So we have to get new insulation to fix that Plus I am Going to put Some thicker L shaped Alluminum as well to Help support those areas. We just had a GOOD Rain and Wind blew off part of tarp on right side and no leaks even after we tore out that sections.
Michael
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