The back awning bracket on our 2000 HiLo 2710 Classic was ripped off (that's another story) & we need to know what's underneath the location on upper part of the trailer to reattach it. We have the original piece & really need to know that in order to use our trailer awning. Appreciate any help.

The awning screws go into a strip if wood. If the wood is to damaged to bad for the screws to reatach the bracket. Try bolting the bracket to a flat piece of metal long enough to reach past the bad wood on each side and screw to good wood. I have used this prosedure many times and you end up with a working repair that does not look bad. I sugest you paint the metal white so it does not rust.

Excellent suggestion. My front lower bracket also got ripped off (don't ask) and while the screws "sort of" hold it in, it's not secure.

Thanks for the great idea!

I've used epoxy in the past to repair torn out screw holes, but the metal strip idea sounds stronger to me.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew

The weight of a water laden awning may cause the bracket to break away. A fellow Hi-Lo owner advised me to check mine and sure enough it was sagging badly because the lag bolt was stripping out. A good idea to keep an eye on it!

Is there a cover of some kind for the awning? I see mildew on mine and the trailer has to set outside.

I have had this problem with my 2001, 29' HiLo. The small cap screws or lag bolts were pulling out. I removed the wooden trim piece on the inside of the bottom half, used a longer drill bit to drill upwards from where the awning bracket mounted, and drilled all the way thru the wood. I then ran bolts thru the holes from the inside, placed the bracket back in place, and put nuts and lock washers on the bolts. I had to countersink the bolt holes on the inside so that the wooden trim piece would lay flat when reinstalled. This took care of the problem for me. I also made 2 "spacers" from 4 x 4 lumber. I cut them about 6 - 8" long and painted them white. I place them between the awning bracket and the lower body half when I have the awning up. This prevents the brackets from "wiggling" when the wind blows. I had to adjust the thickness of the 4 x 4's to fit the gap between the brackets and the trailer side. Just have to remember to remove them before lowering the top.

One thing you can do to prevent water from "puddling" on an extended canopy is to not raise both sides equally. I normally set one end about 2-3 "clicks" lower than the other so that water runs off if it rains.

- Jack

I keep the awning end away from my door 3 holes lower than the opposite end. I put a small mark with a Sharpie felt tip marker at the holes I want to lock in at on the awning arm. Now I don't have to count the holes when I raise the awning to insure one end is lower than the other.

I did a similar fix as Retiredcamper, by drilling up thru! I used a forster drill on the wood cover and the top of the bolt and washer is visible but countersunk enough to not be that noticable.

2704 Towlite
2004 Expedition