So when we were letting it down we might have bound it up because something was left on the front. I had to manually jack it back up and let it down. I replaced the 12v breaker. It was working fine until I let it down on the hitch that was sitting on the nose... It didn't touch the motor just cracked the fiberglass(?) in the front a little. Maybe the switch shorted out? I don't know. Any ideas? It will manually pump up and releasing the valuve will make it go down. I have two switchs and a pull chord. The first is a 3 position black switch. Up is trailer power and down is battery power, I guess, and the center is off. The other switch is a 3 way also but it is the one that makes it go up or down. It does nothing when pressed. The pull chord is the lock for when its up.
kwdstalker
Advanced Member
the black 3 way switch has to be up or down dont rember whitch way.flip it down then try lifting if no work try fliping it up and try lifting.
You may want to check the breaker that is in the battery/pump compartment and connects between the battery and the pump. It could be popped or bad. Some had a button on them to reset, some do not. If you have a tester, check to see if there is power to it and/or going through it.
edward lansing
Advanced Member
The black switch is the master and the white switch is the up-down switch. There is a 15 amp fuse between them. Remove the screws and pull the switches out and it could be blown. ( Unless of course someone in the past has fiddled with it and changed the set-up )
NE
Neal and Bev
Guest
Our 2201 TL has two in line glass fuses for thoses switches. Our switches are on the bottom of the dinette, so the fuses are accessed by simply lifting out the dinette seat cushion, and there they are.
Regardless of the fuse location, these switches are usually fused and checking thoses fuses would be a good next step.
Remember, the only reliable test for a fuse is to check it with a test meter. In this case, you could pull the fuse(s) and and check for continuity.
Neal
Regardless of the fuse location, these switches are usually fused and checking thoses fuses would be a good next step.
Remember, the only reliable test for a fuse is to check it with a test meter. In this case, you could pull the fuse(s) and and check for continuity.
Neal
Last edited:
sting32
Senior Member
Only time I have had no respnse to the switch, so far, has been when I "thought" the trailer was level enough, yet the trailer obviously didn't think it was... "high" in front seems possible to raise my hilo, but "low" in front, was no go. also I find if I bounce the trailer it might go up, never had problems getting it down though...
Your Mileage may vary...
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