Cable replacement and adjustment

Thank you .I will try this

How do i get the file. I click on it tells me to log in

slides

anyone have a good video or pictures of how to replace the guides on the slides ???

No pictures

mike gilmore said:

anyone have a good video or pictures of how to replace the guides on the slides ???

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Here is a thread that addresses the glide blocks: http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f22/replacing-glide-block-4936/

I am getting ready to replace cables and pulleys on my 2807C as I had 2 pulleys shatter, breaking on cable and damaging another...That said...none of the cables appear to be stretched...Has anyone used the old cables to measure for length...Also, I want to swage the thimbles on the end of the cables before installation...Has anyone treaded the cables from the outside into the trailer and then to the cylinder...I have enlarged the small hole where the cable exits the wall so it will enable the treaded portion of the cable to pass...This seems it would be easier that trying to pull the cables out from the wall, mark, cut swage at the proper length....thoughts?

I'd think you could do that. It should be fairly simple to thread the cable up under the top into the inside of the trailer from the outside. That vertical distance is short with the top up. Then, since you have the inside trim off, it should be easy to let gravity assist you in dropping the cable over the pulley to the underside of the trailer. From there, you just have to thread the cables around pulleys to the side of the trailer.

If you have an unbroken, unstretched cable, I think you COULD set the length before installation. However, it would be safer to swage the loops after you start the adjusting bolts into the side frame. You have to be sure the cable is not too short!!

Too long would be just as bad though, and the new cables will stretch some when tension is applied. I wonder if it would be worthwhile to stretch the new cable with one of these tools: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5541-...ywords=Fence+Stretcher&qid=1607266040&sr=8-36 BEFORE you try to set the length? I have one of these, and it has been worth every penny when I needed to apply great force to something.

Maybe some other members who have actually replaced a cable (I haven't) will come on and tell you how they did it. That would be advice you could trust.

- Jack

I also have a come a long.....My cables were in good condition...the break was caused by a failed pulley...

I had trouble getting the right length when I did mine. I don't like the way the swag sits at the edge of the corner and my loops are to big and the bolts for adjustment could be bigger. to achieve taunt is the hardest.

The Ohioian said:

I had trouble getting the right length when I did mine. I don't like the way the swag sits at the edge of the corner and my loops are to big and the bolts for adjustment could be bigger. to achieve taunt is the hardest.

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I think you are saying you probably got the cables too long? If so, it's kinda hard to shorten them just enough if the swagged loops were done permanently.

I think if I were doing this, besides trying to "prestretch" the cable before installing it (with a "come-along") I'd create the loops with temporary wire rope clamps, something like these: https://www.amazon.com/HEVERP-12Pcs...07576032&s=industrial&sr=1-25&ts_id=979139011 Getting the smallest ones that would do the job. I'd probably cut the ends of the bolts off after installing them to reduce their size even more. Then, once I found the correct length, I'd replace them with permanent swagging sleeves. You supposedly need two swagging clamps to secure the loop properly, but I'd think one would do the job on a temporary basis just to set the length. I think they could be installed very close to the loops, which would keep them on the bottom edge of the top half of the trailer.

- Jack

Well, looks like we're going to be doing this on the renovation. High winds today while I was ripping off interior walls, gust started picking up so I said enough for the day and went to lower it. Well, that was an adventure in itself, would not not lower for the life of me. Wasn't keen on leaving the top with this wind, but finally threw my hands up and started buttoning up things, pulled the safety bar back in place (locked up) and went back up front to wrap up a tarp and down came the top lol.

While crawling around to make sure the safety bar was disengaged I noticed a spot of fraying on one of the cables. We're planning on working from the top down once all the tear out is complete, so it's good to know that if it does break it isn't the end of the world.

Eye bolt usage

Getting ready to replace the lift cables. Do you need to use the cables with the bolts swaged on the end, or can you swage a loop and use eye bolts for adjusters?

I replaced all four of my cables using a spool of 100ft 3/16 in stainless steel cable, larger than the factory one quarter-inch cable, and stainless steel thimbles. I purchased all of them from Amazon for under or just at $120.00. I purchased an 18" long arm swaging tool as well with 6 sizes of dies, I think it cost me $36. Very easy to use eye bolts on the end that attaches to the driver side, or left, of the trailer frame rail between the tires and axles. I used stainless bolts, a bit oversized, 4 inches long from my local Ace Hardware store. The bolt measurement is for the stem leg only, not including the eye, so overall length was really closer to 5 and 1/2 inches. This allowed plenty of adjustment of all four cables after installation to level the top in its fully raised position.

Thank you sir

Thank you all for this wonderful information on cable replacement. I have a 2510. The cable under the shower broke. I read the wonderful step by step description as to how to replace it. The problem is, I was never that mechanical and I'm a few months shy of 80. I am currently in Sacramento, CA. Does anyone have any idea of someone who can repair a HI-LO in this area?

I am not sure if it is towable if it hasn't settled down evenly. There is a Camping World in town but they just roll their eyes and say they don't have any mechanics that have worked on a hi-lo.

I know there are people who repair Hi-Lo's in Ohio and Florida but that is too far to go, especially in this condition. Other than this, I would sell it cheap to someone who doesn't mind projects. It has barely been used but did sit for 10 years which may be part of the problem. I would also be open to a trade of a small trailer.

Dean McGriff (605) 515 9426

Do have anyone who could assist in getting the top section down so the unit is towable....I. am in Oregon and have experience replacing cables....did my 2807C.. If you could get it to me...I could be of assistance.....Give me a call...541 680 4743...Brian Agee

Cable

Thank you so much for your reply. I will call you later today.

As you know it is sprung up on one side. I have help but how do you force it down on the one side and keep it down so you can tow it?

What part of Oregon are you in? (north, south, central).

How is your schedule? I would be more than happy to pay for your time.

Thank you,

Dean McGriff
605 515 9426

MTboondocker said:

I replaced all four of my cables using a spool of 100ft 3/16 in stainless steel cable, larger than the factory one quarter-inch cable, and stainless steel thimbles. I purchased all of them from Amazon for under or just at $120.00. I purchased an 18" long arm swaging tool as well with 6 sizes of dies, I think it cost me $36. Very easy to use eye bolts on the end that attaches to the driver side, or left, of the trailer frame rail between the tires and axles. I used stainless bolts, a bit oversized, 4 inches long from my local Ace Hardware store. The bolt measurement is for the stem leg only, not including the eye, so overall length was really closer to 5 and 1/2 inches. This allowed plenty of adjustment of all four cables after installation to level the top in its fully raised position.

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This is one heck of a first post (for me)!

THANK YOU for your reply! We just purchased a 2008 Classic 2308C. When we got it home, the right front cable snapped. Examination of the broken cable revealed significant rusting. I was going to ask about using stainless steel cables instead of galvanized steel aircraft cables to prevent/mediate future issues with rusted cables. Your post answered that question for me.

We have been asking around at local (Kansas City area) RV repair centers, but most won't even look at repairing the HiLo. So, this may very well end up being a project for myself and my father-in-law to do over a weekend.

The more I read here about the process, the more comfortable I'm feeling about undertaking the task of replacing the cables. The PDF instructions linked to here multiple times will be a definite help! I just need to study it a bit more before diving in. My biggest fear at this point is digging into this and discovering other parts (pulleys) that might need replacing.

Amazon has 3/16" SS wire rope/cable that has the same load limits as the galvanized steel aircraft cable at Home Depot, and less expensive than from Home Depot.

The broken cable hasn't dampened our enthusiasm for the HiLo we just purchased. It did take us a bit by surprise, though, and it took using a hydraulic floor jack and a cut down 2x6 to level out the top so we could lower it again. THAT was some nervous moments, especially for our new purchase.

I'll try to keep y'all updated as things progress.

Neal and Bev said:

Cable_Replacemnet_And_Adjment_1998_24TD.pdf

Courtesy of dward51

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Hello: can I ask a favor? Could you email me this document? To: toucan53@hotmail.com. Thanks ron

Hello, we have a 2007 17T 50 th anniversary with a broken right front cable to repair, as no one in FL (that I have found) works on them. How did you safely lift it to replace the cables? Thanks: