Cables

I was just curious due to HILO current situation if anyone new the specifications on the lift cables since we may have to go to the local hardware store for replacements.
thanks

My cables are 3/16" diameter, galvanized steel. The type is known as 7 X 7 flexible control cable. It is 7 wires woven into a cable and then 7 cables woven into the finished product ( a core and 6 cables on the perimeter ).

It is available in galvanized steel or stainless steel ( stainless is times 3 in cost ).

The other cables you will run into are 1 X 19 non-flexible cable. This is used for marine mast type shrouds. Not suitable for pulley systems.

There is also a type called 7 X 19 flexible cable similiar to aircraft control cables. Expensive but good where extreme flexibility needed.

So if you are shopping go with 3/16" flexible control cable, galvanized steel, 7 X 7. This has flexibility and abrasion resistence for this service.

Great post, Ed - Thanks!

- Jack

J R repair has the cables, JR REPAIR

1995, 21ft, Tow-Lite also uses 5/32 cable, In case you want to make your own. Harbor Freight has the 5/32 cable, 50ft for about $10.00, 3/16 cable clamps can be got at Lowes or WalMart they work fine on the 5/32 cable or the 3/16 cable which Lowes has. The 3/16 cable can be used in place of the 5/32 but it is harder to work with.

PopRichie77 said:

1995, 21ft, Tow-Lite also uses 5/32 cable, In case you want to make your own. Harbor Freight has the 5/32 cable, 50ft for about $10.00, 3/16 cable clamps can be got at Lowes or WalMart they work fine on the 5/32 cable or the 3/16 cable which Lowes has. The 3/16 cable can be used in place of the 5/32 but it is harder to work with.

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The 3/16 would have a higher tensile strength though, and would probably have less tendency to "stretch" over time. I think I'd opt for it even if it IS harder to work with.

- Jack

Right On ! Remember the area of the cable goes up as the diameteT SQUARED. A 3/16" cable has diameter of 20% over the 5/32" cable so the area is greater by a factor of 1.44. Almost 50% increase in area, strength, etc. But 5/32" will be easier to fabricate, etc. You get what you pay for.

The cables usually go bad from rusting anyway. Keep them oiled.

Cable and an eye bolt

The cables are easy to find by the home centers like Lowes and Home Depot. What do you use for the threaded end that mounts on the frame?

Would a threaded eye bolt work, or could the eye open up under the weight? I thought aboout welding the eye portion too the bolt body so it can't open up.
Let me know your thoughts? Thanks

Welding would be best, I used all thread, as I couldn't find a eye bolt long enough, then I cut a piece out of a chain link and welded it to the all thread. Also be sure to use the cable protector for making sharp turns when you loop it through the eye and clamp, I used 3 clamps on the adjuster end, probably over kill. On the other end cut the cable off the round grooved collar that the bolt goes through, then clamp as close as you can to the collar, one clamp held for me. The cable is hard to cut a 4" grinder works well. I done it on the road when one broke, could only cut one or two strands at a time, then clamped it to a 18" piece that I left on the adjuster. Got us going in the shortest period of time. Went to Lowes and got the cable and protector and clamps. After that I carried cable and clamps with me, good thing I did as it happened again, when I got home, replaced the other ones and redid the adjuster end on the other two. I got into this because the first one broke a 1,000 miles from home and about a 100 from an RV dealer, we were stuck with the top half way up and tilted, because the broke cable jammed and wouldn't let the top go down, Making it not safe to move, without causing further damage.
No one has said what new cables cost from J& R Repair.

Is that for 4 or one?

Fishing the Cables

Help Guys!
Both my rear cables popped this weekend ('97 - 18 ft) - I think farm jacks will get the top lifted, but how do you get the new cables out from underneath the trailer and over the rollers. Is there access somewhere or am I tearing out paneling?

bongos44 said:

Help Guys!
Both my rear cables popped this weekend ('97 - 18 ft) - I think farm jacks will get the top lifted, but how do you get the new cables out from underneath the trailer and over the rollers. Is there access somewhere or am I tearing out paneling?

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There is a great post on here, I believe by Neal and Bev, that has a PDF on cable replacement....with pictures!

bongos44 said:

Help Guys!
Both my rear cables popped this weekend ('97 - 18 ft) - I think farm jacks will get the top lifted, but how do you get the new cables out from underneath the trailer and over the rollers. Is there access somewhere or am I tearing out paneling?

Click to expand...

Search cable replacement and you'll find it.

Thanks, RC - I found the article, very detailed for sure. I located the 5/32" cable at a local marine rigging store, and the wire clips at Lowes. The rigging supply store was able to reuse the bolt collars and it looks almost factory. Now for the jacking up excercise.
Much appreciate the help!

cables size for all hilows?

Are all the cables the same size on all the hilows? .2009 17 ft 2007 pathfinder

Some are 5/32 like the 2 trailers that I have, others have said the larger trailers are 3/16 diameter. All 4 cables are different lengths at least on the 95T 21ft.

changing cables

I am looking at a 1974 Hi Lo that has an 18' box. It needs a cable replaced. How hard it is to replace cables? also, the brakes are missing parts and disabled, how much do you need them and where are parts available?

Jansen said:

I am looking at a 1974 Hi Lo that has an 18' box. It needs a cable replaced. How hard it is to replace cables? also, the brakes are missing parts and disabled, how much do you need them and where are parts available?

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Trailer brakes SHOULD be just like any other trailer! Cables arent hard, it will take you some time, there is a post on this forum with detailed instructions if you will just look around right quick.