|
03-26-2014, 05:42 PM
|
#1
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 5
|
Funlite lift switch
Hello everyone, I have a couple of issues with my funlite. Recently my motor decided it wasn't going to work so I did some searching on the forum and found where other members were buying hydraulic systems through Northern Tool.
Therefore out with the old in with the new, I just installed a new pump and motor #1072 the other day with a modification to the storage box.
The prior switch wiring had a red wire going to the lowering valve, yellow wire going to the top terminal of the motor solenoid and black wire that runs in to the camper and connects to fuse block.
The new switch has a black wire that runs to the solenoid coil, white wire going to the positive terminal of the start switch, and green wire that runs to the top terminal of the start switch.
My question to anyone that has had to deal with this before is which wire on the new switch do I splice my existing black wire that is to connected to the fuse block in the camper? Anyone that can help me out would be greatly appreciated.
__________________
__________________
JReed
1989 Funlite, 2008 GMC Sierra Z71
Great Lakes, IL
|
|
|
03-26-2014, 05:55 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Far West Texas
Posts: 1,370
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JReed
Hello everyone, I have a couple of issues with my funlite. Recently my motor decided it wasn't going to work so I did some searching on the forum and found where other members were buying hydraulic systems through Northern Tool.
Therefore out with the old in with the new, I just installed a new pump and motor #1072 the other day with a modification to the storage box.
The prior switch wiring had a red wire going to the lowering valve, yellow wire going to the top terminal of the motor solenoid and black wire that runs in to the camper and connects to fuse block.
The new switch has a black wire that runs to the solenoid coil, white wire going to the positive terminal of the start switch, and green wire that runs to the top terminal of the start switch.
My question to anyone that has had to deal with this before is which wire on the new switch do I splice my existing black wire that is to connected to the fuse block in the camper? Anyone that can help me out would be greatly appreciated.
|
Welcome to the forum. I've never done it but I'm sure someone here on the forum has the answer for you. Someone will chime in soon, I'm sure.
See if this helps.
http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f51/...draulics-3612/
__________________
__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas
|
|
|
03-26-2014, 07:47 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: reno, nv
Posts: 406
|
Jreed
I think you are confusing your self by not listing the same wires origin and destination, description the same in both sentences.
old:
As in A goes to B and the color is ???
C goes to D and the color is ???
the color doesn't matter just the origin and destination.
From your description you would splice the black the the black, since it was the only wire going to the fuse block.
That wire is + from power.
YOu have 3 wires on a 3 way switch power + is the center one, then it one goes to the motor, and the other one goes to the lowering solenoid.
I would hope that you took a pic of the existing and will just duplicate routing
__________________
2002 ford f350, 7.3 diesel
1985 hi-lo funchaser
kb0nai
kd7ctk
|
|
|
03-26-2014, 07:54 PM
|
#4
|
Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
|
What does the wiring diagram show for wiring up the new pump? Here is a manual that contains the wiring diagram for the pump on page 19. It may help.
http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/...-towlite-1728/
__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
|
|
|
03-31-2014, 03:26 PM
|
#5
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 5
|
Update
Well to let everyone know I got the knew pump hooked up as far as wiring goes and plumed as far as the lines go. However there is still an issue with lifting the upper half and I'm thinking it has something to do with the cylinder underneath.
Therefore I gave it my best try but now I leave it up to the professionals when I get the chance. Anyone know of a good repair center within an hour of Northeast Illinois or Southeast Wisconsin?
__________________
JReed
1989 Funlite, 2008 GMC Sierra Z71
Great Lakes, IL
|
|
|
03-31-2014, 05:16 PM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Quakertown, PA
Posts: 1,074
|
Can you post some pictures of the new pump and the pluming. When you say the old pump wasn't working. Was the motor running? Or you just thought it was the motor?
__________________
Rich
------------------------------------
(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'
|
|
|
04-01-2014, 06:40 AM
|
#7
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 5
|
Reply to PopRichie77
Quote:
Originally Posted by PopRichie77
Can you post some pictures of the new pump and the pluming. When you say the old pump wasn't working. Was the motor running? Or you just thought it was the motor?
|
You will have to give me a few days for that picture. Seems that when you leave a travel trailer in your driveway in Military housing people like to complain... So it is back in storage right now.
No the motor wasn't running I followed all of the steps that the Manual talks about to check the motor. Plus before I brought it to my house to work on it I put on a brand new solenoid. The conclusion that the manual came up with was that the brushes were worn.
__________________
JReed
1989 Funlite, 2008 GMC Sierra Z71
Great Lakes, IL
|
|
|
04-01-2014, 08:20 AM
|
#8
|
Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
|
Have the cables, pulleys, and the guide rod been cleaned and lubed. It is imperative that those be regularly maintained to prevent problems. Inspect the cylinder and guide rod to make sure neither is bent.
__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
|
|
|
04-15-2014, 08:39 PM
|
#9
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 5
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by renoites
Jreed
I think you are confusing your self by not listing the same wires origin and destination, description the same in both sentences.
old:
As in A goes to B and the color is ???
C goes to D and the color is ???
the color doesn't matter just the origin and destination.
From your description you would splice the black the the black, since it was the only wire going to the fuse block.
That wire is + from power.
YOu have 3 wires on a 3 way switch power + is the center one, then it one goes to the motor, and the other one goes to the lowering solenoid.
I would hope that you took a pic of the existing and will just duplicate routing
|
Renoites,
These two pictures are of the old wiring diagram 004 and the new wiring diagram 006. Where do I make the connection between the fuse block and the new wiring? I already tried doing a quick splice on the green wire which is the + power and it kicked on the motor and wouldn't shut off. Plus on top of that the toggle switch doesn't work properly when it is hooked up. Help!
__________________
JReed
1989 Funlite, 2008 GMC Sierra Z71
Great Lakes, IL
|
|
|
04-15-2014, 09:07 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Upper left corner
Posts: 531
|
The picture of the Haldex pump drawing cut off some key information. Try taking 2-3 overlapping photos and don't cast a shadow on the paper with your hands or body.
__________________
Raul
2408T
2010 Nissan Frontier, 4x4, Crew Cab
|
|
|
04-15-2014, 09:16 PM
|
#11
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 5
|
New Picture
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norton Rider
The picture of the Haldex pump drawing cut off some key information. Try taking 2-3 overlapping photos and don't cast a shadow on the paper with your hands or body.
|
Let me know if this works.
__________________
JReed
1989 Funlite, 2008 GMC Sierra Z71
Great Lakes, IL
|
|
|
04-18-2014, 04:24 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Upper left corner
Posts: 531
|
Take a look at this:
https://static---panrack.app-hosted....c_pump_337.jpg
The trailer should have a yellow and a red wire coming from the up/down switch. These should be connected to the terminals labeled as "Black remote wire" and "Green remote wire" in the photo above. Note that the wire colors in the photo have nothing to do with the trailer. They go with a remote switch that Halex sells for this pump.
If it works, but it's backwards (up is down and down is up), reverse the yellow and red wires at the pump.
BTW, don't forget that the pump needs power going to it. The yellow and red wires only provide a signal to tell it to go up or down. The positive battery wire connects to the terminal in the photo labeled, "positive battery cable and black remote wire", only in your case it will be positive battery cable and yellow trailer wire. The negative battery cable connects with a bolt to the terminal labeled, "ground cable bolt hole." If your trailer did not have a negative wire connected to the pump, the ground is provided by bolting the pump down to the metal bracket it goes on.
If the connections are made as I stated above, the fuse is the trailer panel is good, the up/down switch is getting power from the black wire connected to it, and the switch is good, this should work.
Good luck.
__________________
__________________
Raul
2408T
2010 Nissan Frontier, 4x4, Crew Cab
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|