I have a 95 fun maker that I just bought. After I got it home I had a cable break on me and the front door side dropped about a foot. Using info from this site I ordered a new cable and got it replaced no problems. Now the top wont go down all the way. There is about 18 inches still to go. I looked under the trailer and it looks like my guide rod is bent and binding when the trailer goes down. Is there a special part I need to order for that guide rod, or will any piece of pipe from a hardware store do the trick?

It's a solid steel rod, and should be kept greased. Newer ones are chrome plated.
The rod bent as a result of trying to lift the top with a broken cable.
You sure the new cable is the right length?

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Rich
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(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'

I got the cable from j and r, so its right. The tension is good and tight all the way around. I replaced the guide rod with a new steel bar and it still wont go all the way down. I cant find anything that is binding anywhere and I greased all the guide tracks and the new guide rod. I did get it to go a little lower with the new rod but something is still not letting it down.

I suspect the top has become distorted. If you can support it on equal length 2x4s, you'll find the corner that is too low and you'll be able to adjust the cable lengths so that they have equal tension. That should remove the distortion.

You may have broken a guide block too (the things that follow the tracks). If so, you'll have to replace it.

Look inside and all around the outside for something that is interfering with travel. If you're new to HiLos, it's really easy to miss something that blocks movement.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew

Look for a screw that is partially out of one of the glide rails, these are the T shaped rails that keep the top half in alignment. They are screwed to the bottom half.

__________________
Rich
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(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'

I checked all of the guide tracks and they are screwed in all the way. There is a broken piece from the top of the camper that goes over the guide track on the opposite corner of the camper but it doesn't interfere with the travel at all. Is it possible that when the cable broke and it bent the guide rod, it also bent the lift in the hydraulic jack also? That is the only other thing I can think of to try. The camper is about 6 inches high now so I have gotten it lower with the rest of the fixes I've tried.

It sounds like you may be describing a broken guide block. It will have to be replaced so that the top tracks properly when you raise and lower it. Otherwise, it will probably distort and bind.

- Jack

So I have replaced the bad guide block and I still can't get the top all the way down. Something interesting I saw was that while sitting up on equal length blocks of wood to adjust the cables evenly, the front door side corner still isn't level with the other 3 corners. It is about 6 inches lower than the rest of the corners. What would cause that to happen, and would that be the cause of the camper not going all the way down. Also I noticed it stops going up about 2 inches before engaging the lock bar.

It still could be cable adjustment. I blocked mine between the struts that hold it when it is down and the bottom ledge of the upper half. If I remember correctly the 2x4 blocks were 27" long which allowed the top to lower several inches below max height. Then adjusted the lose cable(s) to the same tension as the others. This only got me to within 3/4 of an inch. From there I just had to adjust and check the measurements. I could not distinguish any differnce in tension. A six inch difference could certainly be causing the upper half to bind.

Are the cables on all of the pulley wheels? Pulley wheels good, the cables havent cut through. Did the cables get caught on something on the frame while not under tension during the guide replacement.

Another cause could be something that has gotten in between the two halves and is jamming but this would only be the cause of it not going all the way up.

Is the cylinder extending fully?

If you didn't have these problems before the guide replacement, check your work. Sometimes a little break, hours to days, clears the mind, lessens the frustration level and the problem suddenly reveals itself.

Just a couple of things that come to mind.

Thanks to everyone for their help so far. I went back at it again and worked my way all the way back to the hydraulic rod is bent and that's what is binding keeping the top from dropping. I've called around and it doesn't seem like any hydraulic shops want to touch the thing to fix it. Any recommendations on where to get it fixed at? Or should I just look for a new lift either from a hi Lo or other manufactures?

If you remove the hydraulic cylinder and take it to a hydraulic shop that repairs cylinders they can do it.

__________________
Rich
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(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'