How do I know if I need to adjust cable - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

Phylana · 10-15-2017, 01:24 AM

I have a 2003, 33’ Classic (custom for handicap access),. I’m fairly sure that the front end of the trailer is too low. I’ve looked at some pics and diagrams in other threads and I’m still confused. First, are the walls supposed to be flush all the way around the trailer? Or at all, for that matter. I saw one post where it said not to go by the trim board, but showed the trim board as flush. Then I saw another couple that appear to show that the top half (lip, ledge, whatever it’s called) actually sits a little below the bottom half and that the rubber stopper basically shouldn’t be crushed between the two halves. IF I do need to adjust the cables, how exactly do I do that? And how do I know how much to adjust?

And, additionally, what is the best way to replace that rubber seal? I’m getting TONS of bugs in my camper.

Thank you!!! I’m a 100% rookie and this is going to become my full time home.

Treeclimber · 10-15-2017, 08:20 AM

Phy, First, welcome to the forum! At the top of the page is a section called "Search". You can just type in your subject title and if it exists you'll pick out the answer.
As for your seal between the top and bottom halves, ideally you want a "P" shaped seal. But finding that shaped seal is becoming harder. MIDGET (sp) has a usable seal that I purchased and it works. If you look at the seal at your entry door, you should find that the seal meets the bottom of the bulbous trim of the LOWER half. Normally the tops of the trim boards are NOT flush with each other. The upper half is lower than the lower. If your seal is seriously deteriorated or missing, the top and bottom must be separated and a new seal installed. After duing a couple of these seals, I've gotten it down to about four hours, with no problems. Two people, a good selection of tools and a complete understanding of how others have done it. I'll see if I can find the outline and send it to you.
Tree

Treeclimber · 10-15-2017, 08:23 AM

In the meantime, you can get POOL NOODLES and cut them in 1/4s and fill the voids as needed. Worked for me! Just remember to remove them prior the lowering so you have them for the next time.
Tree

Treeclimber · 10-15-2017, 08:53 AM

"Cable replacement and adjustment" is what you want to "search" for. Type that in and scroll down to "Sticky". You, of course, aren't changing cables (or are you?), but ounce separated, you'll just remove and replace the seal. I printed a copy, took it to the trailer and made myself familiar with everything. Wall curtains and how to remove them, wire bundle, (mine had more than enough coiled at the bottom so I didn't have to cut and splice them), remove ALL cap boards, ETC.
I gathered tools, parts and lumber required, and help. I have a pneumatic stapler and air compressor, made things easier. I couldn't save the original seal flat, so I just cut it off, tacked the new seal, but covered it with an aluminum flashing strip, then stapled the entire seal all the way around. When your ready check back with us, and we'll coach you along. BTW, that same sticky explains how to adjust cables for proper fit, not hard at all.
Tree

Phylana · 10-16-2017, 12:57 AM

Tree, thanks for your info!!
From the inside, how much lower should the top ledge be relative to the bottom ledge? I’m wanting to avoid tearing much of anything apart aside from cosmetic stuff. Someone else mentioned something about “Hi Lo creep”, as in when one part of the camper is lower in one area than another. That seems to be what I have going on. Maybe that the “sticky” you’re talking about. I’ll check that info out, too. The seals, from what I can tell, seem to be okay. I’ve run my fingers along them all where I could and they’re all still pretty pliable. I would assume that means they’re ok??? Thanks, Phylana

Treeclimber · 10-16-2017, 08:55 AM

Phy, Again, check at your main entrance, you should see where the seal meets the lower half. I'll get a pic for you asap. The two cap trims vary in height from unit to unit and adjusting is simple, and not too time consuming. Your manual will give you the adjusting bolt pattern for your cables, again I'll shoot a pic of those. Basically you'll need three tools, a vise grip, and two 9/16" combo wrenches, hooked to shore power and a good battery. I start with the top down, less strain on the cable then, make my adjustments, raise it up and see if more adj is needed.
Be right back
Tree

Treeclimber · 10-16-2017, 09:32 AM

I'll try some pic of the door jam. This properly adjusted. If you open the door, look aft, this is how it should look. The bolts are where cables are adjusted, mine are in front of the street side tires. The first photo is with the top lowered a couple inches to show the seal, second is adjusted. The seal should rest just under the screw in the first pic, hope you understand.

Phylana · 10-16-2017, 04:29 PM

Tree,
Here’s how mine aligns at the doorway. Just want to validate, there should be a rubber strip on both the top and bottom units, right?

Treeclimber · 10-16-2017, 05:37 PM

That does look really tight! And a bit too high. I enlarged the pic and it kinda looks like there are two seals or it's just the way I'm looking at it. Almost like there is a seal attached to the lower section as well as the normal seal. I saw this situation a few years ago, an owner glued a rubber bulb under his upper trim all the way around rather than replace the seal. Worked though!
What also seems strange is how tight the top and bottom fit, almost NO space at all. Are both side that close together? Sorry, I know very little about the slide out sealing.
Tree

JackandJanet · 10-16-2017, 05:37 PM

In those pics, it looks to me like the top is too high. The rubber bulb seal should just "meet" the lip at the top of the bottom half. It should be snug there, not "squished".

- Jack

Treeclimber · 10-16-2017, 05:42 PM

Phy, There is a lower trim toward the bottom of the trailer (outside) that is up side down from the upper trim, the same seal should just meet that when the top is lowered to prevent dust and road dirt from entering while driving, again the bulb seal needs to just meet these trims not go over them.
Tree

Treeclimber · 10-16-2017, 05:45 PM

Jack, am I wrong or do the sides appear to be crushing the seal between the top and bottom. Seems TOO tight to me.
Tree

JackandJanet · 10-16-2017, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Treeclimber

Jack, am I wrong or do the sides appear to be crushing the seal between the top and bottom. Seems TOO tight to me.
Tree

Yes, Tree - it looks way to squished to me.

- Jack

Treeclimber · 10-16-2017, 07:47 PM

Here is my take, after thinking about it. The top is coming up TOO high, way too high. This is bringing the cable pulleys together which is causing the "squishing" of the seal. Our new friend Phylana needs to adjust those cables soon as it can be done. "Top creep" is the right search.
Phy, PM me if you need help
Tree

Garry · 10-17-2017, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phylana

Tree,
Here’s how mine aligns at the doorway. Just want to validate, there should be a rubber strip on both the top and bottom units, right?

Phylana, you have received a wealth of information from Tree and Jack, and Tree has the same length of trailer as mine, but when I had the bulb seals changed at Midget in Bellville, Ohio, there was not any uniformity with the inside bottom edge matching the inside top ledge. With the length of the trailer, the position of the entry door and a tip out, if you have one, you would be very, very lucky to have the ledges uniform throughout the trailer, which would result in the bulb seal working as it should. If there were more lifting points maybe. TMI?