I just bought my first camper and it just happens to be a Hi-Lo. I'm danged excited about getting it cleaned up and in top shape. I think I got a good deal on an 88 fun chaser. Mostly I think it just needs some new tires and a set of brake lights, but I had some issues on my first lift. After a little examination I found that the pulley mount on the passenger side rear was 3/4 torn from the frame and bent upwards above the back tire. It raises but the slack causes that corner to sit a little lower than the other three and wedges the cabinets on that side against the back dining bench, making it impossible to lift the top without some one inside to push the top forward. Im going to have the pulley mount welded back into place but I'm not sure how much trouble this will be. Does any one know if I will have to remove the lift cable to do this, or once lowered will there be enough slack in the cable that I will be able to get the pulley back into place with out having to remove and then reinstall the cable?

I would suggest support the side that has the damaged mount, raising it with floor jack and 2x4, then loosen the cable by adjusting the tension, and then weld the mount.

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2181 Classic
97 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8
4x4

That makes sense. I know its likely elementary, but do you know where I can find the tension adjustment? I did a once over of the cable replacement pdf in the library but im still picking up bits and pieces it's not al sticking yet.

The tension adjustment may be between the two tires on the driver's side of the trailer.

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Les & Patricia
2006 22ft towlite (replaces 97 21TL)
2006 Toyota tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L V-6 quad cab
w/ 98 chevy Powervision towing mirrors
2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 v8 (replaces Toyota)
2 Hobie mirage pedal drive kayaks

Word, Im so glad this forum is here. Like I said this is my first camper, and don't think I could have picked one better. Being able to see whats up with other folks is so helpful.

Yes,this forum members are very helpful. You can call Jay Simon at Mantelli trailer sales anytime. He will answer any questions and give you advice.He has twenty some yrs. experience with HiLos. He is the parts manager and will ship parts anywhere. Mantelli Trailer sales,Inc.6865 South Transit Rd. Lockport,New York 14094 jay @ Mantelli.com 1-716-625-8877 Fax716-625-8877. It is nice to have a helpful person that you can call anytime.

Yes be sure to remove the cable from the weld area any weld splatter on the cable will damage it.

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Rich
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(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'

So Im moving along on getting this pulley mount sorted out. I ran into some issues today though. I'm hoping some one can tell me where or if Ive gone wrong. I raised the top as far as it would go. I measured the distance from the two front cushions to the frame, and assumed that was the correct height I needed on all 2x4's. The distance was 31". I proceeded to jack up the rear passenger side corner and place a 2x4 of 31" there as well. Once I lowered the top on to that 2x4 it was obvious that it was too high, the seal was no longer tight in the back and the opening for the door was to wide for the latch to catch. I cut 2 inches off the rear 2x4 and lowered back on to it. It appears to have helped, but the door is still not true. My plan from here is to loosen the cable for the back corner enough to move the mount into place, protect the pully and cable, then weld the mount into place. Tighten the cable back up, pull the 2x4's and see how she sits. Should I just start with shorter 2x4's?

My hi-lo also had a torn pulley mount in the passenger rear. It jammed in the up position while on an extended vacation. I had to pop the ram bar to finally lower the top. Which created another issue, needing new seals in hydraulic ram.
The problem cut short the vacation but is now fixed.

You have to remove the wire rope from the pulley and pull back under the trlr. Wire will need to be unbolted from trlr body to be able to remove pulley and with a hammer bend mount forward to align wire with hole, weld bracket to frame. And that gets your rope out from weld splatter. Do NOT weld with the pulley in the mount because it will melt the pulley.
If you have stabilized the trailer in the up position with 2x4, you only have to loosen the wire affected by the mount not all them. Measure the distance where the wire and nut comes through frame to adjust, after repair return to this adjustment as a starting point.
I added some bracing/gusset material to stabilize the mount since the tear opened up the joint to much for a good weld. It won't happen again on that mount.

hth
steve

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2002 ford f350, 7.3 diesel
1985 hi-lo funchaser
kb0nai
kd7ctk

Donkylegs, don't do any measurements to adjust cable lengths on the inside of the trailer. You need to adjust the cables so that the seal meets the flange on the bottom half. You can see this in the door opening. If the seal was put in properly, you can duplicate this height all the way around on the outside. I measure at the corners from the outriggers the top sits on when in the travel position.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew