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03-22-2017, 08:40 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: kentucky
Posts: 5
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Rear lift cables
Hello everyone. I have a 2001 traillite 22 ft anyone know how hard it is to replace the cables mine broke. .
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03-22-2017, 09:29 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,223
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Handy person can replace cables
I would recomend you replace all four cables. Here is the fifteen page post Cable replacement in my 1998HiLo24TD Dated 3-3-2010. A member in our HiLo club has replaced his on two different RVS. He claimes to have invented some new words in the process.
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03-22-2017, 09:40 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: kentucky
Posts: 5
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Hello Sam . Would this work on my 2001 model .also I can not see the 15 pages . Thank you for your help
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03-23-2017, 08:19 AM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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Go here and then click on the attached file:
http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f61/...1998-24td-125/
Cable replacement is basically the same on all years and models. The main difference is the length of the cables from model to model.
If you don't want to make up your own cables you can call J&R Repair, http://www.jrrepair.embarqspace.com/# or Midget RV & Trailer Service, http://www.hilotrailerparts.webs.com/ and get made up sets of cables.
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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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03-23-2017, 03:45 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,386
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I added to my above post, in case you didn't see it. You can buy made up cable sets rather than doing it yourself.
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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
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03-23-2017, 03:47 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: kentucky
Posts: 5
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Thank you so much
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03-28-2017, 09:41 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 83
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You don't happen to have a you tube video of that do you?
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03-29-2017, 02:57 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 83
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Also I see the cables are about $600. Is there any where that sells them cheaper?
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03-29-2017, 11:21 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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Yup, make your own. The cable itself is fairly cheap at hardware stores like ACE or Home Depot. You have to buy the fittings and apply them yourself. You'll also use something like an eyebolt at the adjustment end.
- Jack
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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System, SoftStartRV mounted on A/C
2024 F150 Platinum FX4 3.5L PowerBoost SCrew
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03-29-2017, 11:04 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,223
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Yes,You can make up your own cables
Click on the link Rich R provided 3-23-2017. It show how to do this job from Ato Z. Much more cost effective to make up your own cables.
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03-29-2017, 11:23 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 83
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Can you get the fittings at the hardware store as well?
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03-29-2017, 11:24 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 83
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I plan on looking at the guide but I am much better with a visual when learning something new
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03-30-2017, 12:17 AM
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#13
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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You should be able to find the fittings at a hardware or home improvement store. If you decide to "swag" the ends you'll need a swagging tool, which is like a big crimping tool. It is expensive. You might find one to rent somewhere.
There are screw-on type things that can be used in place of the swag devices. I don't know what they are called, but they are usually found near the bulk cable.
If you take one cable off, you'll see what is needed to functionally duplicate it. As I said, you'll probably have to use eyebolts in place of the OEM adjustment bolts.
- Jack
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03-31-2017, 03:45 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: ohio
Posts: 454
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I just posted this on my thread yestarday.
it's called Star Supply Bargain Outlet its at
875 Mahoning Ave.
Youngstown. Ohio Exit5/680
open Mon - Sat. 9 to 5:30
They state great buys on aircraft cable
various sizes of cable from 1/8" to 1/2"
by the spool or by the foot.
various size thimbles, clamps, hooks, pulleys, eye bolts.
hope I helped someone today. I may out there see what they got. yeah alli used on mine were the cable u bolts. also at an electrical supply store the clamps they use to attach wiring have a screw inside a housing made of heavy brass work even better than the 1/8 inch wire cable u bolts. much easier to use also.
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05-01-2017, 11:50 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Deer, AR
Posts: 1
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Would this work on my 1969 tow low?
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05-01-2017, 02:19 PM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 4,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ladybug10152
Would this work on my 1969 tow low?
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If it has cables, it should work.
- Jack
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06-18-2017, 10:07 AM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 83
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Well hubby and friends decided to tackle this project this weekend and are in the final stages. I think they also discovered those new words Can't find any reference as to if the HiLo should be in the up or down position when doing the final attachment of the cables to the anchor bolts. Assuming in the up position but once you cut the cables. . . so would like to be sure lol
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06-19-2017, 08:35 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: ohio
Posts: 454
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lower the roof all the way down, even it up. set you cables and tensions.
I have this explained many times in my posts pleas read through them
I try to help not hurt. tho right or wrong , don't matter, not trying to give wrong advice.it gives you a fresh new beginning to start with.
then go from there. like I said 1" or 2" side to side or front to back is always removable, or addable, or replaceable, and not even noticed, except by a perfectionist, who cant stand it. which I am not. front to back or side to side. 1 or 2 inches is moot to me.
with the proper new j hooks and cable you can build it 20 feet high if you like. do what you feel like doing and build off of it.
sorry if I am wrong! usually am tho.also I am beginning to think someone from lexall caulk is givin kickbacks to this website. LMAO!
do'do happens
I did it, done it, and aint finished with it at all. mike
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06-20-2017, 01:55 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Rural Route, Gray County, S/W Kansas
Posts: 124
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Final Cable Attachment
Quote:
Originally Posted by zookeeper
Well hubby and friends decided to tackle this project this weekend and are in the final stages. I think they also discovered those new words Can't find any reference as to if the HiLo should be in the up or down position when doing the final attachment of the cables to the anchor bolts. Assuming in the up position but once you cut the cables. . . so would like to be sure lol
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In the UP Position, although it's probably done by now! That way, the Cables are nearly fully extended with no slack around one of the Pulleys! Makes adjusting the height easier for making it level. Then down a few inches and back up a few times for Fine Tuning!
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