Butyl

New to me 22 td 2001......How to decide what size and how much Butyl tape to buy to replace around all windows...????????

I cant remember the sizes (widths) but you just need it wide enough to cover the underside of the window frame. I think I went thru a little more than a roll when I did all of my windows.

Rick

hilltool said:

I cant remember the sizes (widths) but you just need it wide enough to cover the underside of the window frame. I think I went thru a little more than a roll when I did all of my windows.

Rick

Click to expand...

Thx I found that also But not much help...Was thinling there were some solid standard numbers out there..so I could order some

cva34, Just for extra, I ordered a box of five rolls from amazon, cheaper that way. I have three large windows, two med ones and a small one. When completed, I had about two full rolls and a bit more. All rolls were 3/4". Since the "SEALING", I've used the tape for sealing around pipes thru the floor and other holes, around a new Fantastic vent, and also sealing around the house. I travel with a full roll, and it has come in handy with fellow campers.

OK think I got it..I was thinking I had to get tape that would span the Thickness or the window from inside to outside of frame..But Now I realize it only has to span the outer sealing surface... Correct me if I am wrong....

sorry for Dummy on this end

Real quick procedure: remove the inner window frame (someone or something outside to prevent the window from falling). Have spare stainless screws handy for breakage. Remove the window and put it on a makeshift workbench. Clean the window frame AND the area surrounding the hole. Use a plastic scraper to prevent damage to the trailer skin. Use mineral spirits to get all the tackiness off. You MUST use alcohol after cleaning is done, butyl tape won't stick otherwise. Around the edge of the hole, put down a layer of butyl tape. If you have a wavy sided trailer, you may need to put a second layer of tape in those voids to fill that gap. Re-install window using a cross-pattern to prevent warping. Tighten to a grunt-not a grunt AND a groan! Wait a few hours and using the plastic scraper, clean off excess butyl. A few days later, run a bead of white LEXEL caulk (this can be purchased on-line or at Ace hrdw). Your finished. Now do the rest. You'll probable snap a few screws, don't worry, you can remove them from the window on the bench using a needle nosed pliers.
Tree

Thx treeclimber...Got it I been a fan of LEXEL for many years..only complaint I could ever comeup with its slower to setup...

Treeclimber - I see little merit in the use of Lexel as well as butyl tape as the butyl continues to thin & expand under pressure thus forcing the Lexel out.

I'm all for learning the benefits of such a practice but my personal experience has found it to be redundant.

The purpose of the Lexel gives a finished look, preferred over the rough edges of the butyl. It also prevents any dirt from forming, which can cause surface staining, you know, those running down the sides. Lexel does not expand and contract like butyl.

Treeclimber - Yes, butyl expands, thus forcing the Lexel out. This is my point. When I reseal my windows, I'm cleaning off the excess butyl which exudes from the frame for the next three years & I use the stuff sparingly. By the time I've stopped trimming the excess, it's time to reseal. I'm just a little confused as to why this has not been your experience too.

I also trim off the excess butyl, but that leaves an unsightly "space". Skin, the butyl gap, and then the window frame. The Lexel makes a smooth transition from the window frame to the skin. After the window install, I leave the job set for a day or two, then trim the butyl, caulk it, and I'm done. I truly have never had the butyl expand to the point of moving the caulk. I've done dozens of window re-sets in my shop and never had this problem. Just lucky I guess.

I speak with no experience with RV window replace..Waiting on weather to settle and cool a little..to do mine...I got everything sitting ready to go ....As far as LEXEL I used it for years..Its addhesion is way better than Silicone..LEXEL is slower to cure to full strength maybe a week..Maybe when fully cured its strong enough to stop Butyl movement

Window reseal and removal.

You tube has a video on how to do this. We never did this before. You need two people so you don't drop the window. The first window is scary and then you get the hang of it. Play your favorite music while working.