I am going to be doing some work which involves removing the top from my 33 foot Hi-Lo. I saw the article on how to do it... but the step that says "Remove guide rails" has me a bit stumped.

I can see and access most of the screws easy enough, but the top screw is never uncovered - even when raising the top to its limit. What's the secret of accessing the top screws?

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but this is the point that you will need jacks to lift it a little higher.

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Your top probably isn't going high enough, cables need adjusted. However since you are taking the top off, jack one end up at a time just high enough to get at the screws on that end and then block, then jack the other end. Follow instructions for jacking the top up.

I'll have to take a look - and maybe even post a few pictures.... but I am pretty sure it is all the way up and I think the guide blocks will hit the rail it I try and jack it up farther.

Don't know what you mean the glide blocks slide up and down on the glide rails?
Did you remove the cap from the bottom half, all the way around inside?
I never took mine off, but will look at my 2209 today.
I did remove all the glide rails on my 95T before. All I did was jack one end just enough to clear the top screws on the glide rails, on that end and blocked it at that height, then I jacked the other end up till I could get all the top screws out.
Usually when the cables are properly adjusted the top is almost high enough to remove the top screws.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f55/...=removing+roof

The top screws on the glide rails on my 2209 are visible and only need the top lifted about an 1/8 of an inch or less to come out.
I would remove the curtains at the bath room or sliding panels, loosen the vent pipe at the top and leave it slide down, disconnect the wires that go to the top half, inside the cabinet there should be wire nuts for this purpose. Remove the cap board from the bottom half inside, all the way around, it is screwed on. Jack up and remove top screws from the glide rails and remove the rails.
The glide blocks should slide over the plastic bar, that the seal contacts, but if it was me, before removing the cables, I would put the top almost down, pull the top over to one side and remove the glide blocks on that side, this will give more clearance for the top to go past the plastic bars on the bottom half. Then put the top up, and follow the instructions for lifting the top above the bottom half.

The top cap board seems to be in line with the plastic bar you mention.... so I wonder why the cap board needs to come off? I took some pictures and will post what I am describing.

Okay - I looked closer, and it does appear that there is room between the glide block and the top plastic rail pictured below. So apparently I do have room to jack up the top and access the screws. (This picture was taken through the kitchen window with the top partially up) :









This picture above also shows the plastic rail and the top cap. It seems to me that I would not gain any additional access by removing the top wooden cap. So what is the purpose for doing that? Here's a picture of the top cap from the inside:

[QUOTE=Fishermark;6520]Okay -
Snipped what you said, for brevity...

QUOTE]

I was going to do this, but decided I WILL have j&R do it to my 5th wheel this winter (fingers crossed Ill have saved up the money this year, LOL).

Anyway, the 2 boards on mine leave like about a 1/4 inch gap between them, when top is up. you have 2 rubber (or foam filled vinyl?) Gaskets that stick out from the bottom at about 1/2 or more each, when top comes up they "touch" each other to "seal" the top and bottom. I think you need to take at least one off to see if I am right, you wont get top off with that seal catching on the board that goes around the top of the bottom half, I am pretty sure?

Take lots of pictures please! as you do this! like I would love to see how you make sure the top can not fall off the 2x4's when you are working on the bottom and such... As, I might change my mind and attempt this my self, but my top is SOOO huge, I just dont trust doing this without some rig/jig or something. I mean hell, I have old style slide in camper jacks that would make this easier than 2x4's anyday, I would think, I just need a helper to crank one while I crank one.

Why are buildings not called builts, when they are done?

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From Kansas: 29ft '95 5th, converted to toybox in rear, by Hilo. Pics soon, Some Here.

Sting,
there is only one seal and it is attached to the top half, there is a plastic bar that runs around the top edge of the bottom half, this is what the seal contacts when the top is raised. You can see the plastic bar in his photo, there probably is another name for it. Your 5th wheel may be different.
Most people don't have jacks to lift the top or a helper, the instructions are so that one person can do it with out special jacks.
Fishermark,
Usually the inside wood cap sticks out about 1/8 to 3/16 and it will catch the plastic glide blocks, when you lift up to remove the top half. If you have a helper that can stay inside and watch to make sure all clears, then you might not have to remove it.

Well, I'll be sure to take lots of pics as I go along and let everyone know how it goes.