roof repair
Hi Jerry,
I am actually very interested in the roof damage that you are talking about. We just bought an 1980 20' HiLo and are just beginning to try and repair the roof. I have also noticed the pin holes that you are talking about. they are actually along the the metal edging that wraps from the top of the roof to the side panel. I actually thought that they may be caused from tree sap??? We are trying to decide what we will use to repair it. While I would like to keep the trailer roof as original as possible I have no idea what it would entail and cost to remove that edging and replace with new. Would love to know if anyone has replaced these??? Leticia
Leticia,
Sorry I couldn't respond earlier. We dropped our RV off on lake Eufaula [in Oklahoma] and continued on to a convention in K.C. and just returned late yesterday. At the present time, I am getting a real good test on my roof project as we are getting some very heavy rain, the first since we completed the roof repair. I will know soon whether my efforts were successful or failed.
Regarding the holes along the side, there were just a couple of spots along the roof/wall juncture that I noticed on our roof, most were on the flat portion spread over a section about 7 feet long and 18" wide. I removed the gutter and awning and there were a couple of spots where the metal roof was crimped and folded down causing a rupture. I used Erna-bond web seal tape along the entire length of the trailer and folded it down to where it covered over the bend of the roof metal and would be hidden [aesthetically] when the gutter and awning were replaced. I can only emphasize here that it is important to insure the surfaces are clean before applying the tape. I would also recommend that you not overlap the eternabond tape where the lateral's [roof metal junctures] extend out to the wall. Rather, do the longer wall roof juncture, then cover these roof seams and just butt the tape up to the long wall run. We did have a small rain after I pulled it outside and the overlap failed to adhere well and the rainwater caused it to separate. I had to redo these areas and redo work is messy!
The tree-sap spots you spoke of are fairly discernible from the actual pin holes as when you run a fingernail over the electrolysis area, it will flake away exposing the metal. every one of these that I covered [around 45 holes] seemed to hold well. The only problem areas I had were in the overlapping eterna-bond tape areas.
I didn't remove the AC unit as it showed no visual signs of leaking and the cover for the unit covered the penetration and it sloped downward to the outer walls in what I thought was sufficient to not allow pooling. Right now we are having a driving rain that could possibly get underneath all that cover so I will check for any leakage and if any is evident, I will remove the unit and treat it also.
I can provide you the information where you can get the best deal on the tape if you want to email me at
jcurtis95@austin.rr.com. I also experimented with a cheaper aluminum tape that might work just as well as the more expensive eterna-bond tape and can be purchased in the automotive department of Wal-Mart.
Presently we are experiencing one heck-uva rainstorm that will be a good test for our repair job. About 2" per hour and we are supposed to move to an RV park today!
Good luck on your roof repair.
Jerry & Carol Curtis
2406 T