Sealing roof

After reading through the forums and further inspection of my Funlite, I've decided that I need to do something about the roof. I've discovered what looks to be galvanic corrosion (as described in other threads) at the edges of the roof. I'm also planning on replacing the skylights. The one that HAD a fan is missing the fan, and both appear to be leaking somewhat. I plan to use eterna-bond tape on the roof edges, and butyl/Dicor sealant around all the penetrations and then paint with Kool-Seal elastomeric paint (again, thanks to all the advise on other threads).
My question relates to the 'gutter' on the sides about a couple of inches below the roof edge. Should I remove this rail and re-install with butyl tape as well, or just run the eterna-bond tape up to it and possibly caulk where they meet?
Also, can this rail be used for an awning, or is there some other awning rail that I would need to install? There is a (vinyl?) trim piece in the rail that covers the screws. I would assume that I remove the vinyl to access the screws and replace it in the track once the resealing has been done.

Jack, I don't know about the "gutter" you describe. My trailer does not have one, only a seam where the roof meets the sides. I suppose a depression there could qualify as a gutter. There are two small plastic gutter "spouts" on each corner of the street side though. They've kind of deteriorated and I may replace them sometime.

As far as an awning - my trailer seems to have a rather heavy wooden beam along the curbside top and the awning supports are screwed into it with four lag screws. I suspect you probably have the same construction, but there's no way to know until you try making a hole. Since the awning is an option for HiLos, I'd expect them to all have the same underlying construction.

Maybe, you could contact J&R for some insight about adding an awning.

- Jack

I think by gutter, you’re referring to the aluminum extrusion piece that serves as the hold for the awning on one side (and just sits there as the hold-down & seal on the opposite side)?

If that’s the case, if you’re concerned about some corrosion around it, I’d actually assume that the damage may have started to work its way underneath that aluminum piece. I would pull them off (lots of screws there, square head) and investigate. If things are ok, pull the old calk off, clean everything back up and reattach with new butyl and then new seal on top and bottom edges of the aluminum piece.

If there’s roof damage hanging out under that piece, I’d clean everything up as before, and then either do a ‘temp’ fix with eternabond over the problem area and reassemble everything, or consider a roof replace. I think some others have suggested that if you’re noticing some corrosion in one spot, there can be some pinholes opening up in general that will cause some larger problems with roof and walls too.

r67northern said:

I think by gutter, you’re referring to the aluminum extrusion piece that serves as the hold for the awning on one side (and just sits there as the hold-down & seal on the opposite side)?

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Yeah, that's what I am referring to. In regular "tin cans" it's called the "J" rail. It has a vinyl piece that covers the screw heads. As I mentioned in the original post, I have noticed some corrosion in the top corners, so I guess I'll have to take those down and re-butyl tape as suggested. Depending on how bad it is, I'll run the eterna-bond tape over that area as well.

I was going to just use the eterna-bond tape up to that point, but you make a good point that there might be other issues covered up by that strip. Hopefully, I can remove the vinyl without damaging it so I can reuse it when done ... if not, I'll have to try to find a source for the vinyl strip.

on my 2000 22td had same corrosion it seem to be only in area that tended to hold water longer...right up against rail that held awning ...corrosion was only in last 5f of top and spotty within inches of edge ..Removed Rail all 18f (lotsa screws) I cleaned up mashed lexel into corroded area and smoothed and let cure..(epoxy might have been better /after thought) ....Gota good deal on 25f eternabond 12inches wide on ebay-50 bucks..
I brought the tape down just below the area the Rail was mounted and then rest onto top..full length of camper top...So basically theres 3in down side and 9in on top..Put rail back on (hint mark a few screw holes and have plenty screws maybe next size up)
It was not easiest thing I ever done then But it turned out Great...Put KOOL seal over entire roof...

Is there a product that needs to be used on the metal roof of my 1509 (15' 2009) Hi Lo ?