Spot Relamnation

Anyone have any suggestions for Spot Relaminating? I.e., by injection rather than by completely removing the fiberglass skin and disturbing the areas NOT affected?

use big syringe full of 2 part fiberglass epoxy resin, slow or fast dry. will do the job. big needle tho and syringe. fill to brim use acetone to clean jmo. also can thin it fiberglass epoxy, with acetone to fill easier, and more quickly. just be sure to wipe off any residue fiberglass filler, with acetone, nail polish remover will work for it to clean up also. fiberglass epoxy.
thanks mike

Do a search on the internet

Should be a utube on this. Also try West Marine or other boating places on the internet.

cheapest place to get it all, is car place like autozone, or tractor supply, or amazon. cheapest I found epoxy mixed syringes, was auto parts stores, and wal mart sells bulk cheap. I go to tractor supply buy vet syringes, big ones. then go to wal mart, get quart of resin, and curing agent. fill up syringe, go to town. be sure to reinforce the place as it dries. to where you want it. wipe with acetone. to clean up while still wet. I built fiberglass hood and fenders for 69 Chevelle, and fixed boat hulls . you can buy gallons even cheaper online too. with the green mold release. its called poly vinyl something but it s not pvc.,
I forget also you can get/ buy gel coat too cheap, there is an extra charge for the mold release tho.its considered haz mat.
mike hope this helps.

Can someone confirm that before the repair is started the the damage area must dry out or can the repair be done while wet/damp?

My gut tells me to make sure the area being repaired must be dry.

The reason I ask is that I will be doing the repairs outside and would like to have a nice span of good weather to complete.

Bravada, The worst leak I've had (fortunately!) was a small area under a poorly sealed kitchen window. In southwest Florida, there is no such thing as a few days of dry weather. Our summer rains are daily. So I draped a waterproof cover over that window, removed it and use an electricians drier (heavy duty hair drier) and carefully dried the area for a few days. As the exposed area dried, I'd leave it for a while, return to find moisture had wicked up. So I dried again. After 3 days, I was good to go. I used 3M aerosol contact glue (77?) with a long tube attached, sprayed as deep as I could get, between each layer of the plywood and braced and clamped for 24 hrs in the sun. Butyl taped and reset the window. I let the excess butyl seep out for a day or two and with a plastic scraper, removed the excess, then applied white Lexel caulk for a finished seal.
Tree

My worse leak and damage was around kitchen window which I would not have discovered if I wasn't re-sealing the window.....a great argument for re-sealing even if things look ok. In my case, the hood fan vent , directly above that window, was poorly sealed and water was coming in there and down the wall to where it met the window frame. It then traveled around the window and pooled at the bottom in the wall. I caught it in time so that there was no rot on the beam which is the base for the whole upper section, but I did have delamination of wall material behind the wall paper which I had to tear out and dry and then replace with some wall board.

Rick

Bruce from Kansas Fixing delamination

Do you have a classic or a towlite? This makes a difference in how you aproach the repair. On our Classic we tore back to the fiberglass. In other words we tore the walls apart until we could have a dry surfice. Check out some utube videos as others may have done differently.

Sam, my "new" one is a Towlite!

The old one is a classic, with All Metal.

My 'New" 2600TFB has Delamination, though not to the Window yet, like Bravada's, from the range vent angled down forward & slightly down & back toward the Refrigerator Vent.

Sure wish there was a way to EDIT the Thread Title